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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My turbo car did something funny a few times. As I went faster 135 it waddled at the top end under lifting braking.
I tied down the front thinking it was air under the car, problem solved.

Went faster, at 145 it did it again, tied down more, problem solved.

This was on bias ply ET streets. Went to 315 radials in back, bias in front.
Made 1 pass broke the diagonal on that pass car body rolled side to side violently under braking. Straightened it out by stepping back on throttle eased it to stop.

New diagonal last week gusseted end brackets set bars so pass side front bolt could be removed easily, and it did the waddle at the top at 137

Car is also sitting lower on pass side. When I built the car bars neutral it didn't have the turbo or associated parts so that added a lot of weight to the pass side. Front springs have also settled (morose trick). Today I put 2 to 2.5 turns in the pass bar to level the body.

Any thoughts appreciated, hope I explained that clearly.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
No ones got any thoughts w all the ladder bar guys going fast on here?
 

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Have you looked into bump steer as being a possible contributing factor?
 

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I have had a ladder bar Camaro porpise at the top end and found out that by adjusting the r ladder bar that I had lost the set up meaning the weight had been jacked around and the rear wheel weights were off as was the left front. If you've made adjustments to the length of the ladder bar and it's changed the front end weights that will cause top end handling problems. I'd have it set and re scale the four corners.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Haven't checked the rod ends ladder bars have been in there 7 years and haven't touched them really.

Did climb under the car today and the pass side jamb nut was loose again.

Don't think I'd call it porpoising that's more front to back this is side to side mostly in the rear.

Gonna pull the bars out this weekend if all looks good Ill have Markow scale the car to see what's up, probably have him scale it either way. It's never been scaled.

Sounds like a lot of guys put 2 turns preload in the pass side anyway from what Ive read is that the case?

Btw thanks guys the help is very much appreciated.
 

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Haven't checked the rod ends ladder bars have been in there 7 years and haven't touched them really.

Did climb under the car today and the pass side jamb nut was loose again.

Don't think I'd call it porpoising that's more front to back this is side to side mostly in the rear.

Gonna pull the bars out this weekend if all looks good Ill have Markow scale the car to see what's up, probably have him scale it either way. It's never been scaled.

Sounds like a lot of guys put 2 turns preload in the pass side anyway from what Ive read is that the case?

Btw thanks guys the help is very much appreciated.
Surely no one's putting two turns of pre-load in, more like two "flats".
 

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Discussion Starter #10

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Here's 137 mph can't see much at top end again keeping it under 10.0 low boost 5 psi
http://youtu.be/Yj0Ge3GQbaI

You can kind of see it low on pass side, its low both front and back
 

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Here's 137 mph can't see much at top end again keeping it under 10.0 low boost 5 psi
http://youtu.be/Yj0Ge3GQbaI

You can kind of see it low on pass side, its low both front and back
Yeah, there's no doubt it's lower on the right. Guess it could be a number of things. Have you set the car on jackstands with the weight on the suspension to see if you can turn (after undoing the nut) either of the front ladder bar bolts? You should have someone in the car that's about your weight when doing that. It looks like you've got ALOT of preload on the driver side. If your springs are adjusted equally...I'll bet if you can get one of the bolts out the car will go level. Then you will need to adjust your bars accordingly. Since this has just started...you may have an axel tube twisting.
 

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coyote52 said it before I could. Please not two turns, just two flats is what I hope is meant. You need to get the load out of the car and start checking everything. Something is not happy under there. And yes, depending on the housing and how it is made, you could have an axle tube twisted/twisting in the housing. Let us know what you find as you go.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ill definitely keep you guys posted. Haven't gotten under the car yet been super busy w family etc.

I think ill pull both bars and get them even first, then put them back in and see where it sits for starters, probably this weekend unless I can get to it sooner.

I have not put it on stands, just jacked one spring at the track 1/2 inch or so, it did nothing. Came home and put a few cranks in the pass classed bar adjuster to lift the body to level. But before I had gone to the track I pulled the pass bolt and got it so it slid in and out easily and that resulted in the low on pass side stance.

Front jam nut on pass ladder bar has loosened up 3 times which can't be a good sign(2 at track once when I got it off the trailer) course maybe I just didn't have it tight enough not much room to get under it to tighten at the track., Im wondering if the threads are wasted from street driving it. All speculation right now though. All I know is something ain't right. Season is pretty much over here in the north east anyway. I'd still like to at least get it figured out soon though, hate having a broken car even if I can't really use it.

Sucks because the car worked pretty well originally. I leave soft off the foot brake too. 9.70 at 146 at 11 psi on pump gas, off the foot brake, Im dying to run it off the trans brake one of these days when I get it set up right. If it does need new ladder bars or cutting off brackets etc Im going to have to seriously think about going to a 9 inch and 4 link at that point. Though guys are going damn fast w 10 bolt 10.5 s and ladder bars.

This has always been a car Ive tried to keep relatively low budget 2 bolt block, cast crank, iron heads etc
 

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Ill definitely keep you guys posted. Haven't gotten under the car yet been super busy w family etc.

I think ill pull both bars and get them even first, then put them back in and see where it sits for starters, probably this weekend unless I can get to it sooner.

I have not put it on stands, just jacked one spring at the track 1/2 inch or so, it did nothing. Came home and put a few cranks in the pass classed bar adjuster to lift the body to level. But before I had gone to the track I pulled the pass bolt and got it so it slid in and out easily and that resulted in the low on pass side stance.

Front jam nut on pass ladder bar has loosened up 3 times which can't be a good sign(2 at track once when I got it off the trailer) course maybe I just didn't have it tight enough not much room to get under it to tighten at the track., Im wondering if the threads are wasted from street driving it. All speculation right now though. All I know is something ain't right. Season is pretty much over here in the north east anyway. I'd still like to at least get it figured out soon though, hate having a broken car even if I can't really use it.

Sucks because the car worked pretty well originally. I leave soft off the foot brake too. 9.70 at 146 at 11 psi on pump gas, off the foot brake, Im dying to run it off the trans brake one of these days when I get it set up right. If it does need new ladder bars or cutting off brackets etc Im going to have to seriously think about going to a 9 inch and 4 link at that point. Though guys are going damn fast w 10 bolt 10.5 s and ladder bars.

This has always been a car Ive tried to keep relatively low budget 2 bolt block, cast crank, iron heads etc
Wow! That's really quick/fast for "low budget"...and a street car at that.
If you put your car on jackstands (on the suspension) and jackstands under the crossmember ...when you pull those two bolts..the car will have to set level on the crossmember jackstands seems like to me.
I wouldn't change from ladder bars, you will have to do a lot of changes on the frame (brackets). Plus like you said..there are cars that are "flying" with ladder bars.
The jam nuts backing off...I see that all the time. A person needs to keep an eye on them all of the time (normal upkeep).
You've really got me curious about the problem, be sure and let us know.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
It's fairly quick but I feel its got a lot more in it, best 60 ft is 1.59 off the foot brake at 11 psi 9.70 at 146 should go low 9s off the trans brake. Moore boost might see 8s if I can get it stable at the top.
Figure the rule of thumb is .1 up front is .3 out back.

All Pontiac too!

Got a couple pics of its stance before the bar was raised can you post from camera roll on here can't find a "manage attachments" or "browse"option.
 

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It's fairly quick but I feel its got a lot more in it, best 60 ft is 1.59 off the foot brake at 11 psi 9.70 at 146 should go low 9s off the trans brake. Moore boost might see 8s if I can get it stable at the top.
Figure the rule of thumb is .1 up front is .3 out back.

All Pontiac too!

Got a couple pics of its stance before the bar was raised can you post from camera roll on here can't find a "manage attachments" or "browse"option.
Man I don't know. I've tried putting pictures on a number of times....no luck. My son put a few on here before for me, but last time he tried..he couldn't.
That ET with that 60ft....you've got a easy 2-3 tenths just in your 60ft. time.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Man I don't know. I've tried putting pictures on a number of times....no luck. My son put a few on here before for me, but last time he tried..he couldn't.
That ET with that 60ft....you've got a easy 2-3 tenths just in your 60ft. time.
Yeah it used to be a stick car so I wanted to take some time off from broken parts for a while :)
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Im starting to think the problem is in the front springs. I pulled the bars evened them put them back in. Lowered the lift and it sat pretty level. No pre load at all. Walked to the front and pass side was a little low, pushed down on it and it settled 1 to 2 inches and stayed there lol. Watched the back go down with it. Of course the shock in the back on pass side is still jacked up a bit but doesn't seem to add anything . Next is to even the shocks and lower the front on stands leveled way up at the horns in front. and see what that does
 
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