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i have a sbc 399nitrous motor and cant keep the heads sealed,water in cylinders got copper head gaskets block surfaced new heads retorque after cool down little m block 4.185 .041 clark gaskets afr 1124 spread port heads 12 to 1 comp 150 plate 225 fogger 37 timing -13 with both systems act best et [email protected] only get 12-15 passes before water in cylinders block is oringed too
 

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I've got the same combination. The only water leaker I've had was with Titan SCE gaskets. The Clarks are about as good as it gets. Mine does tend to swap some compression across the center cylinders.
Obviously block and heads must be flat. The finish may be very critical and I've just got lucky - can't say for sure. The only thing I do different is Yamabond instead of Clark's RTV.
I'm assuming you have good head studs.
Good luck with it.
 

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are you only pulling 13* for both kits? if so thats 37* - 13*= 24*
for 375 shot seems very high to me also looks like your also might be lifting the heads a little. then again sometimes its hard as
shit to try to seal copper head gaskets. next time save your self time and money use fel pro mls or cometics
 

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I had the same problem years ago, had to release rad cap after every run to reduce the slight amount of water that got into the cyl. Ran copper with o-ringed heads and receiver grooved block so MLS were out of the question.

Saw an article in Hot Rod magazine about Nelson Racing engines turbo stuff that they were running on the street with dead soft copper and they worked perfectly.

What they did was torque down and release the gasket 3 or four times (you will feel it torque differently every time) then paint every surface with permatex super 300 and final assemble and torque. Then they heat up the heads by blowing heat guns into the water jackets for 20-30 min. then retorque again.

I hope I did'nt leave anything out but we did this and it worked perfect, no more water in cylinders just a tight pressured cooling system.

BUT this stuff is hell to get off.
 

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Fel Pro 1045 Loc Wire and never look back.......Receiver groove in the head is all you need...


Sorry , I just re-read the O-ringed block part.....Nevermind.
 

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Running SCE Titians. Had a issue with little Brodie heads. Couldn't get them to seal. Called Brodix. Followed there torquing method no problem since. Torque head half torque in sequence. Let sit a minute or 2. Break nut loose one at a time and re-torque to final torque. Let sit for a few minutes break each loose one at time and re-torque again. Start engine with no water let run long enough to build heat in heads and shut off. Break each one loose one at a time again and re-torque to final torque. Never had any issues since.
 
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