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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I have an aeromotive a2000 pump on e85. Wiring is good. I have burned up 2 relays within 20 passes .my relays are 20 amp moroso. Fuel pump seems to be working fine. I am running a regulator without a return. Could this be my problem?
 

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Can you give a little more info about how you have the system wired and locations of components ?And maybe how system is plumbed
 

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Most likely the lack of a return line is the problem....the plumbing diagrams for that pump show either a return to the tank off the side of the pump at the built-in regulator on the pump body, or a return from a separate regulator at the carb.

Running it dead-headed like you are is hard on the pump as it strains to push against fuel that isn't moving at idle or low engine speeds, creates more heat in the pump motor and raises the amp draw of the pump motor in the process.

If you read the instructions for pump installation, they point out that using a dead-head regulator at the carb requires the use of the return port off the side of the pump back to the fuel cell

Take a look at both style of plumbing diagrams at Aeromotive's website listing for the A2000 pump.
 

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Burned up, as in......

If the applied system voltage is correct for the relay coil, & the contacts are switching 20 amps or less, then the relay should last a very long time.
 

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Quit messing around with 20 amp relays and put a 40 amp relay in it and use 10ga wire for ground and power. I have used generic 40 amp relays on the 2 Aeromotive Pro Pumps for years without any problems.

Every time a relay opens the contacts arc a little which damages them slightly. Over time it lowers the capacity of the contacts so it's better to start with a much higher capacity then you think you need.
 

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^^^^^ X2
 

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If you have a correct size return line from the A2000 built in regulator back to the tank with no restriction, you should have no trouble. Higher capacity relay of a different better brand like Bosch should be a cure. I have that set up and no issues. Is your relay mounted close to the pump?
 

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Don't think you can dead head an a2000 pump like mentioned before, that's a problem for sure. I have 4 cars plumbed with that pump, all have the -8 return line off the pump to the cell, and have had zero problems. There is 25+ psi pressure off the pump.
One of mine is almost 4 years old, never been apart or had any trouble.
I agree with the larger relays, will last much longer.
 

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Quit messing around with 20 amp relays and put a 40 amp relay in it and use 10ga wire for ground and power. I have used generic 40 amp relays on the 2 Aeromotive Pro Pumps for years without any problems.

Every time a relay opens the contacts arc a little which damages them slightly. Over time it lowers the capacity of the contacts so it's better to start with a much higher capacity then you think you need.

Excellent post. throw that cheap crap away as said!!!
This is exactly what I have in all of mine, 40 amp relays & a nice quality 10 ga wire.


.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Don't think you can dead head an a2000 pump like mentioned before, that's a problem for sure. I have 4 cars plumbed with that pump, all have the -8 return line off the pump to the cell, and have had zero problems. There is 25+ psi pressure off the pump.
One of mine is almost 4 years old, never been apart or had any trouble.
I agree with the larger relays, will last much longer.
I have a return line that comes off of the pump that goes to the fuel cell. The regulator at the carb is dead head.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I have also recently have had the circuit breaker pop a few times . this is at the switch.
 

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Is the relay mounted close to the pump AND wired properly with 10 or 12 ga. wire on the load side of the relay to the pump?, and most importantly, a good solid ground, a poor ground will make it draw a lot of amperage and burn out relays and blow fuses. I think normal draw on this pump when wired and plumbed properly is 12-15 amp.
 

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As above, 10 ga wire possibly 12 through relay, has to have a good groung, a good 40a relay, go back to battery or a good quality terminal block. I've seen more problems with " chassis grounds" than anything.
 

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As above, 10 ga wire possibly 12 through relay, has to have a good groung, a good 40a relay, go back to battery or a good quality terminal block. I've seen more problems with " chassis grounds" than anything.
Spot on! ...... poor grounds and connections can cause lots of bad issues with bad outcomes.
 
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I pay more attention to the terminals on a relay than it's rating. The terminals on typical 40 amp relays are only good for around 20 amps, even less with common parts store terminals. This is why they almost always fail at the terminals.

For anything over 20 amps, I step up to the larger case relays.
 

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A poor ground will NOT increase amp [ current ] draw. It will reduce amp draw because a poor ground [ or any type of poor connection that adds resistance ] adds resistance which reduces current draw.
The cct breaker popped? What is the rating of the CB? The pump may have an internal short that is making it draw more current than it should.
 

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Most likely the lack of a return line is the problem....the plumbing diagrams for that pump show either a return to the tank off the side of the pump at the built-in regulator on the pump body, or a return from a separate regulator at the carb.

Running it dead-headed like you are is hard on the pump as it strains to push against fuel that isn't moving at idle or low engine speeds, creates more heat in the pump motor and raises the amp draw of the pump motor in the process.

If you read the instructions for pump installation, they point out that using a dead-head regulator at the carb requires the use of the return port off the side of the pump back to the fuel cell

Take a look at both style of plumbing diagrams at Aeromotive's website listing for the A2000 pump.
I'm goin' with this...JMO
 

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A poor ground will NOT increase amp [ current ] draw. It will reduce amp draw because a poor ground [ or any type of poor connection that adds resistance ] adds resistance which reduces current draw.
The cct breaker popped? What is the rating of the CB? The pump may have an internal short that is making it draw more current than it should.
I don't agree with that. Especially in a DC system, grounding is critical to maintain a systems integrity. Wanna test it?. Go outside to your car and loosen the ground terminal on your car battery so it's barely touching the battery and then hit the starter button, it will start arcing and smoking as it tries to establish a ground path and will increase current draw excessively, put an amp meter on the POS cable and it will be high.
Circuit breaker is there to protect the wire to the pump, if it pops, it is either seeing an increase amp draw from a bad pump, or overloaded pump if not plumbed properly, or not wired properly.
 
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