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Discussion Starter #82
Tested the S480 on the street. Kinda weird my back pressure was pretty much identical to the 1.25 T4 housing with the new 1.32 T6. So somethings bottle necking. I'm being told the 2" exhaust isn't it, but I'm skeptical. Basically 1.8-2 :1 on the back pressure.



Ended up making a new set of lower shock mounts with a 7.5" BS wheel and was able to tuck the 30" tire pretty well. Going to finish out the season with the tall tires until I can figure out why power drops way off around 6k.





 

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Thanks.

3100ish these days... Thats with 100lbs of ballast in back.
Wow... how'd you get it so heavy? I thought those things weighed in at ~2,200 lbs stock... I would've thought 2,500 tops...
 

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That seems really heavy for what it is... I'd be curious to know where the weight is - that thing is pretty tiny and spartan (relatively speaking). FWIW, I was curious what happened to my weight too (it was 3,255 with my old 306/AOD/Eaton combo with me in it), but I've got downright luxurious OEM seating, inflatable lumbar supports, full size steel bumpers, all steel body, four doors, 105" wb, roll bar, stereo, power windows, power steering, power trunk release, etc, etc. But since then I've swapped to a dart block, glide, whipple and A/W setup so I decided to try something that might benefit you - esp since it seems your car's getting a bit squirrelly on you from time to time.

Since getting things weighed around here is a royal PITA, I went ahead and ordered two of these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/322221620203?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

The idea being that I could put the two under one tire (with a board to span both scales), and make up 3 pieces of wood to place under the other tires to keep things level, and I could corner weigh the car relatively easily without too much $$ - as well as weigh my luggage before leaving on business trips, various items to shipped, things I take off the car, my cat, etc.

Please don't think I'm detracting from your accomplishments in any way - I like reading about guys going fast with home made junk! I was merely comparing performance vs estimated weight to see where I stood; your converter slip numbers caught my eye - that 3% you mentioned at 6,200 rpm would indicate a really light car. In my case, I leave on 14 psi off the brake at 3,400 rpm, the converter flashes to about 4,700 rpm, and I shift around 6,100-6,200 rpm, but it falls back to 5,300 rpm on the shift:



Even with as tight of 10" converter as I can get ("C" stator; from BTE) and running JD fluid in the glide, I'm still seeing ~12% slip through the traps. I'm running 3.08 gears and 26x8.5 Hoosier slicks, fwiw.

Hope all this info is helpful to you.
 

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Discussion Starter #87
I'll have to weigh it again since I added a heavier turbo and a few other things. Should be right around 1350 rear and 1530 nose. Picked up a China Load cell, arduino board, and LCD display for about $50 (plus the soap box case) and had a buddy build/calibrate it. It was within 8lbs at 2000lbs.




Converter deal is all PTC IMO. It's very common to see less than 6% with their 9.5" unit. And they are plenty loose down low to build boost. They really have the converters down. Their 17 blade unit was slipping around 8%. I went with the 14 blade now and it's really too tight for my setup IMO. You can also get a 12-13 blade stator I believe, I know mine isn't the tightest they make.
 

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A man after my own heart! (no homo). I actually was "watching" some load cells on ebay and have an arduino kicking around that I was going to try. But by the time I added up the money, factored in time and the fact that I'm tired of fabricating shit, I realized these two 660lb scales would be cheaper and have more uses. Of course, that is if they're reasonably accurate - will find out sometime this week when they get here. How did your buddy calibrate yours? Perhaps I can try something similar. Or maybe just bring them to the gym and stack weights on them.

Re: converters. Lane was the only converter guy out of the popular ones who did say he could find me some ET in my setup. Too bad you don't live closer. We could've swapped converters and saw how the cars responded. I think I need the same looseness I have now down low (or may a hair looser) and a bit tighter up top.
 

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Discussion Starter #89
Wish I could take credit, but Aknovaman is a member/friend who built it. Works at a calibration company of some sort and brought it into work to check.

Those scales you got seem like a great deal, but aren’t they a little shy of the needed weight at only 660lbs each? Load cells are OK to get a general idea, but by the time I fabricated some type of stand and plate system to get weight on wheels with 4 of them, it wouldn’t be worth the time/effort. It did work really well to test valve springs.



I’ve tried a many of converters over the years. PTC has them down IMO. $950 for the custom 9.5” isn’t cheap, but I’ve yet to see anyone else come close in terms of slip up top while remaining loose down low. Even their 10” “budget” $450 unit performs better than most other companies “tight” converters. Saw around 8% at 700whp levels at 3400lbs at 6900ish through the traps.
 

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I saw your valve spring tester - that's a neat use of the load cell for sure. How much was that thing?

As far as the scales go, I plan to use two scales under 1 wheel with a board spanning both scales, then simply adding the numbers together. Hopefully more accurate than the old lever/bathroom scale ratio method. I got the idea from this guy:


As long as one corner doesn't weigh over 1320 lbs (1320 - is that a coincidence for drag racers, or what?) they should be fine. The mild PITA is that the other three tires must be supported on blocks of identical height. So I'll have to do a little wood working.

If you're interested I can update you on how it works out.

FWIW, My BTE 10" was over a grand - but they were awesome and helped me out HUGE on the rest of the glide, so I have nothing but great things to say about them. Fantastic people to deal with.
 

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FWIW, My BTE 10" was over a grand - but they were awesome and helped me out HUGE on the rest of the glide, so I have nothing but great things to say about them. Fantastic people to deal with.
When you get ready to get that slip under control. Lane or myself can fix you up.
 

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We dropped 3 tenths and picked up 4 mph going from a typical 10" converter to PTC's 9.5" converter, with no other changes in a mid 9 sec 5.3 single 76mm car.
 

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Discussion Starter #94
First pass with the S480 and the trans let go. Been running the same stock glide gear set for 4 years so it was bound to happen. Grabbed a set aftermarket 1.80 gears that looked beefy. I’ll give it a shot next year….

Little trans carnage… Got every tooth!






Hope these hold up. Anyone use this brand before?



 

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Discussion Starter #95
Trans is back together and installed. Later found the tail housing was cracked as well, so installed a new one.

I went to install the driveshaft and the slip yolk wouldn't slide on past 3 inches or so. Couldn't get in in the trans far enough to install the drive shaft. I pulled it out to inspect and the splines were twisted! It was a cast spicer yoke. I'm wondering if this is what took the trans out. Since the drive shaft had no way to move, i'm sure thats what ate the tail housing anyway.

Spare yoke slid on and off the output shaft easy. So I ordered this $140 forged steel Sonnax yoke. Still only a 27 spline, hope it holds up!




Also found out when it's -17 degrees outside and you heat the yoke up with a torch... the cups slide in by hand! ;)



Neat tip... after the cups fall off the third time... I found this little trick works well.

 

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Discussion Starter #96
Dropped the new trans in, de-winterized, road tested and had the car all ready for opening day Mar 11th.

Then found out a friend was selling his LSX block later this year, and another friend wanted my 370. So I pulled the 370 to help fund the LSX build. And in the meantime I happen to have this gen4 4.8 sitting here doing nothing. So I’ll drop that in and see how the VSR S480 does on it in the meantime.

Yanked the 370 and sent it to a good home.



Here is the 2007 4.8. Picked it up off Craigslist for $500. Had a claimed 12k miles on it and was a roll over U-haul truck pull out.


Pulled the pistons and the top rings were super tight, around .015. Opened up to .022 “ish” and dropped them back in. Lower rings were all at around .024 and I didn’t touch them. Bearings all looked new.




Found a killer deal on some Summit 1.8 roller rockers and a 216/222 @ 111 .56X lift cam. We’ll see how the 4.8 likes that.

On a side note I found the cheapie reusable coffee filters work great to strain fuel and oil. Think I gave under $3 for it at our grocery store. Strained the oil as I drained it on the 370 to look for metal. Also use one on my fuel cell when I dump gas in since I don’t run a filter pre-pump.


 

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Discussion Starter #98 (Edited)
Picked up a set of 799 heads for $100. Someone left one head in cleaner overnight and it was scrap, but the other was good. Here was the damaged head.



Figured I have something like 24 hours in the head porting/milling/lapping and spring install. I’m sure my porting isn’t worth enough power wise to justify the time. Unless you have A LOT more time than money, I wouldn’t’ bother porting and LS head for SBE turbo builds.

I picked up another 799 head off E-bay for $200 shipped. Ended up having 3 bent valves. (that wasn’t mentioned in the Ebay AD!) Luckily I could use the valves from the head that I scrapped. Spent another 5-6 hours porting the new head. Then dropped them off to be milled .025.



Spent 5 hours lapping all the valves in. Used valve compound and a drill, probably not the best method, but they turned out OK. Then installed the BTR .660 dual spring kit.




Went with the felpro .041 MLS gaskets this time. No idea how well these will work but I liked the extra bump in compression. I’m trying to spool a T6 S480 with a super tight converter. Figure I need all the help I can get. Should be around 10:1 I’m guessing.




With all the luck Denmah seems to have on the OEM head bolts… I decided to do away with the ARP studs to save a little $. I couldn’t convince myself to run the OEM head bolts though. So I picked up a set of new ARP head bolts for $120.

Cut some channels in an old OEM head bolt to make a tap, and cleaned up the block threads good. Torqued them down to 78ftlb. Hope these hold!


Cam was ½* retarded to the card with the original timing set (this engine only had 12k so I didn’t see the need for a new timing set).



Installed the fancy summit 1.8 roller rockers. About .030 clearance on the end rockers and the head/VC perimeter. May go back and clearance that a bit. Also need to measure for push rods. Guessing the OEM length is close with the smaller base circle cam and .025 milled heads and .010 thinner HG. Lifters were all pumped down so it was hard to tell.



My balancer went with the old motor, so I picked up another pro-comp deal. Hope to drop it in next weekend and fire it.

 

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Discussion Starter #100
why choose a bolt over the china studs for less $
That’s a typo above. I paid $102, not $120. China studs are basically the same price as a quality ARP bolt kit these days. I like the quality of the bolt better than the hit/miss stud quality. I’ve used the china studs too. Had some come with poorly threaded nuts, and couple snap on me well before I got to 70ftlbs. Figure rather than mess with the possibility of a crap stud, I went with the ARP bolt.
 
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