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Discussion Starter #1
Best run to date 9.35 @147. Best MPH 148.7. @ 20lbs 17* timing and 10.1-10.5 AFR on E85. Driven to and from track on a 295/55/15 DR.

Plan to cycle in cheap junk yard motors in as they let go.

Basic run down...

Chassis


79 rx7 back halfed. 2850 race weight.
Currie 9 inch with 35 spine moser axles and spool
3.10 gears 29" tires.
competition engineering ladder bars and wheelie bars
Front factory struts with OEM power disk brakes
Drums in the back

Cheap junkyard 5.3 2003 160k ($220)
ARP head studs
LS9 GM MLS HG's
Cheap OEM ZR1 Cam
PAC 1218 calce sprins.
317 6.0 heads.
AEM EMS PNP ECU
120lb injectors
Magnafuel 750 pump
1/2 fuel lines
E85 Fuel.
Built Power glide. PTC custom spec'd 9.5" converter by Dusty.
BW S400SX3 turbo. (75mm) 1.10 AR T4 exh. housing.
Turbo kit consists of stamped SS 98 F-body manifolds. and 2.5" Mild steel piping.


Chassis...

All fits under an OEM CF hood with factory hood latches.










Cleaned up the bay.

before...



After...



Random inter-cooler shot. (31x12x4)



Test fit motor. Little closer to the steering box thatn I'd like.

Looking up from the bottom....







Cut up and welded the manifolds. Used a mig and tri-gas. Actually welds nice, for me anyway.

Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18 Show Content


Hot side done.





Got the Taurus E-fan glassed up. Still need to sand/paint and add mounts.



Charge piping is all mocked up and in place. Welded Beads on all the piping. BOV welded in.






 

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Discussion Starter #2
Fuel cell with "Fire Wall Box" mocked up.






Final assy on Long block is getting close

LS2 Timing cover w FWD cam pick-up is done.
ARP stud kit and LS9 7 layer MLS Hg's are all in and torqued.
Turbo oil supply done.
Waiting on drill/tap set to finish up oil pan drain.













Drilled and tapped the block for the F-body alternator mount.
mounted manifolds.
Installed balancer.
Got the belt routing and size figured out. Just waiting on an idler pulley to finish that.
Coilpacks and plugs done
120lb Fuel injectors installed
Aem EMS assembled.
Tapped the heater plugs for the water pump. Also drilled/tapped a 1/8t hole on the low side of the thermo housing for the steam port return.


Had to drop the driver side coilpacks about 2" to clear the -8 fuel fitting I installed. Worked out well, I was able to use the f-body spark plug wires I had after lowering the coils.

Going to use LT1 plug set on the passenger side.















 

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Discussion Starter #3
Re-did my crossover for more ground clearance. Painted/wrapped it. Triple wrapped it under the converter area.

Wrapped passenger header. Made a heat shield for plugs.







Wrapped starter.



Cheap ass SFI flexplate I bought came with "grade 8" bolts that immediately stripped out when I tried to torque them. Ended up buying ARP flexplate bolts.
Luckily just the cheap bolts were chewed up and not the crank threads.



Engine/trans are in.



final belt routing. Its a little close by upper rad. hose but seems to clear with my mockup hose and clamp installed.

Few guys on the "norotors" forum have there belts done this way. They don't complain about slippage. The RPM's won't ever see much north of 6k. I'm hoping this will work out. I can always add another pulley on the alternator mount if I need more wrap on the crank.

 

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Discussion Starter #4
2" WG dump tube finished.






Mechanical guage for coolant temp ghetto rig....



Fuel cell is mounted. Safety vent installed with -8 return. Fuel pump mounted, lines ran. 1/2" SS hard lines along the length of the body. -8 braided for the rest. Regulator mounted.











Finishing up wiring...










Decided to go with the 925 Odyssey battery. (22lbs) Didn't have alot of room left under the hood and I wanted the battery up front so I didn't have to deal with the battery boxes shutoff switches and 12ft of battery cable. Removed the charging lugs on the rear bumper and all the old wiring etc for the rear mounted battery.


Welded up a little angle iron mount and test fit the hood. Plenty of clearance. also wired up the alternator charge cable (2g) and ground wire. Got the upper and lower radiator hoses, steam vent, throttle cable, and IAT sensor done. Went with the cheapo "golden rod" filter again. Installed and finished up the fuel return. Fuel plumbing is done.



 

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Discussion Starter #5
Trans and driveshaft are back in with no leaks.

Got the 3.10 "nascar" gears installed. ($130)

They are polished and lightened.



Trans and driveshaft are in.

Ended up with this Derale dual core trans cooler. 10x14.5. ($72 shipped) Tack welded my old grand national intercooler fan I had to it and mounted it in the back.





Went to town on some wiring... Center console has hinges on the bottom and swings out for access. WB02, trans temp, trans brake, fuel pump, Rad and trans fan, and rear brake lights and turn signals all done.






Used a cheap harbor freight aluminum air tool splitter for a vacuum block.



Very boring video of a turn signal. Used a $20 golf cart universal signal kit. Had a built in brake light provision as well!


Turbo blanket and oil line shielding

 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm calling the exhaust done. The new gate they sent me was crap as well. I used parts from the both of them to make one working gate. I wouldn't suggest "godspeed" products. They are pretty much crap. Not that it wasn't expected. I also cut the supplied Wg spring in half and heated it with a torch to weaken it quite a bit. Shouldn't take much boost to open it.

Also installed an exhaust crank case evac kit. It's pulling vac at idle. And gets much stronger in the revs.

Heres the finished product.



Wrapped





Also got new window crank assys, glass, door handles And pop rivited some alum door covers on. Now both windows work on this "street car".







Installed some $50 ebay coil overs to raise the front end a couple inches. While I was playing with the suspension I figure I should upgrade the brakes. Ordered a set of drilled and slotted rotors with some HAWK pads.



Wrapped the dump tube and brake lines.



In Bumper head light setup almost complete.

Basic idea...













Just waiting on some tint to go over the lexan.

 

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Discussion Starter #7
CF Hood finally came in. Got rid of the hood pins and installed a factory latch.

Just need to borrow some street legal tires so I can go try to tag this thing...








Made another HVAC cold air intake too. I found you can pull the segments apart and add to them for one longer seamless piece. This also let me eliminate the “crinkled” end pieces. There’s even a rolled bead on the end for your couplers. Made 4 of these so far and they are all holding up great.

This one is hidden in the fender so I didn’t spend any time sanding it or trying to make it look pretty.

If you want it to look more professional you could try just enforcing the ends with glass/resin. Then dipping the whole assy in polyurethane. I think that would turn out slick.







 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
swapped in a little larger air filter. Still on the small side, but I feel slightly better about it.





New rims and tires... MT Dr's 295/55/15's. Only a 3.5lb weight difference. ( Yes I know one is backwards it was fixed)

Centerline makes a new (cheaper) "dicer" series wheel for $200 similar to the autodrag series on my car.

The new wheel had to much chrome and the back spacing was a little to deep for the drag radials. I threw the new drag radials on the old rims and put the slicks on the new rims.

Looks good. The wife said the car looks slower now. I'll take that as a compliment... :yup:









 

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Hou realize that passengers side drag radial is mounted backwards right?

Great build.... nice result...

The transition of the passengers side header is makin my ocd flair up a little though... lol
 

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Very cool build, love that lower buck stuff
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Thanks all...


Hou realize that passengers side drag radial is mounted backwards right?

Great build.... nice result...

The transition of the passengers side header is makin my ocd flair up a little though... lol
Yes, right above the DR picture it says... ;)

"New rims and tires... MT Dr's 295/55/15's. Only a 3.5lb weight difference. ( Yes, I know one is backwards it was fixed)"
The "T" merge pipe is crap I know. I just wanted the car done and ready, the hot side was built in about 5 hours. Racing season had started and I wanted to get out there! I did install a cheapo oil pressure gauge and sending unit on the hot side. I'm seeing around 1.3:1 or so at 15psi and a little under 1.4:1 at 20. Not bad IMO. The cam has so little overlap I don't think it's hurting a thing.

I plan to redo the hotside with 2" piping and a nicer merge this winter. (maybe 2 1/8th If I can find it) Also been looking for a nice alum. block 5.3 replacement motor.

The motor I'm running now was really rough. I had bought it for mockup only. Ended up making a decent profit on the LS1 I had planned to run. So I tossed in this turd thinking I could at least get the new chassis dialed in and a decent tune. Didn't think It would run low 9's for 30+ passes! Hell it should run an 8 if I could get the 60' dialed in a little better. The 3.10 gear does some odd things at the line. If I could slap a set of 3.45's in I bet I would squeak out a 1.3 60' and an 8.9x @ 150 or so with 24lbs... Time will tell! :smt073
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
nice going there man.
The gate on the down pipe is coooooooool :cool:
Thanks! It works great, but It did cost me some MPH. I popped the gate off and ran a little dump pipe in it's place and picked up 1.6mph or so.

I also made a quick open 4" down pipe for it this weekend. It was crazy loud compared to the other setup. At 20lbs it still trapped the exact same MPH as it did with the "funky" exhaust setup. I was thinking of adding another gate or just breaking down and buying a 3" electric cutout.

Here is a video of it actuated with shop air...






 
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