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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I currently have a 1961 chev belair (4 door) which is 95 percent street car.
Car currently has
-9 inch billet axles, 3.25 gears etc
-built powerglide with PTC converter
-3.9 bore 383 LS1 with S475.

Now my mate has showed serious interest in buying the engine off me, and I have always wanted to do a BBC.
If I can do a TT BBC for roughly the price I can sell the (maybe 9g) LS1 combo for and produce approx 800rwhp on pump fuel I would love to do it!

I am completely new to the Big Block world! I have searched and searched but it seems there are a heap of different heads styles etc, tall/short blocks. 4 bolt/2 bolt.

Firstly can I do it in the price range?
I really want to do a true budget junkyard style build, and in that way of thinking I thought about this
-low rpm torque monster, nothing exotic
-4 bolt short block
-nice stock heads with some home porting and smoothing of chambers (which ones?)
-forged pistons
-H beam rods
-stud kit
-camshaft etc
-2 ebay gt45 turbos?? about 250each
-what intake?
-log turbo manifolds
-EFI

Was also thinking about keeping it EFI as I have a complete EFI system in the car except injectors. I was going to adapt the LS1 ECU to suit. Fit LS1 reluctor wheel to balancer and cam sensor in the dissy. This way I have already got the tuning software and coils etc ready to go. Then modify intake for rails and fit 90deg bend and throttle body.

Is this doable??
How would you guys set up a true junkyard/budget style BBC?
Any input greatly appreciated!!
Cheers Mark
 

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My recipe.

Gen 5 454 block.
044 forged steel factory crank.
088 heads.
Good rods and pistons
My own speced cam
Pair of S475 Borg warners.

The 088 heads are 320cc stock. Good Valve job and home port work I was shooting for 400/[email protected] with them. 2.25 intake valves and 1.88 exhaust.

It takes about a 20 cc dome to get 9.3:1 compression.

I too had planned on adapting an LS computer to run the motor. MSD makes a 1X cam sync to work with a Gen 3 LS ecu. I am also working on building a hub to adapt the crank hub to the balancer.

Edelbrock makes a Proflo EFI intake for a BBC that I think would work great.

I want to build my own intake using the bottom half of a wieland TR2 tunnel ram. I am gonna build my own upper to bolt to that that has twin LS 78mm throttle bodies. A pair of these have more throttle bore area than a monoblade 105 and can be had for 50 bucks each.

The cop ignition should be hot enough to fire just about any fuel I might want to try.

I am considering E85 or 100% methanol... I've also worked out a plan for the engine to be dual fueled between pump gas and methanol. 2 complete fuel systems and pumps. A mechanical pump with an electromagnetic clutch, and A ecu that has 2 prom chips so 2 separate tunes can be had. Gonna have two sets of injectors. 2nd set ran be an aem driver box piggybacked off the stock ones. This setup should allow switching between fuels by doing nothing but shutting the engine off, flipping a switch, refiring it and wait for the methanol to hit the injectors.

Fill the block... use a killer aluminum rod to keep from beating the shit out of the crank and transferring stress to the block... and this thing should be able to make 1400-1500 hp and live season to season with proper maintenance. It's not a build it and forget it type build but I like to tinker so I don't usually build stuff that is for myself. I make changes too often and mess around with stuff.
 

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Love the turbo and intercooler placement on that car.
 

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^that is great, the placement is awesome.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
That sounds like an impressive combo! I especially like the switching of fuels. I have also thought about this, but a little different. Still have 2 sets of injectors, but also have 2 sets of pumps with one way valves that T piece into the same fuel lines and flick a switch for the race fuel (meth) and simply unplug the injectors to the bigger ones. I will have to check out the AEM drivers. I will also have to check out the MSD 1X cam sync to suit LS1. I did find the other day on Ebay an intake manifold set up for 8 separate carbies (stock looking cast one). It was low and and 2 bolt flanges on every runner, looked very easy to make runners and plenum to suit. And would be easy to mount injectors in the valley area as the runners would be vertical.

My recipe.

Gen 5 454 block.
044 forged steel factory crank.
088 heads.
Good rods and pistons
My own speced cam
Pair of S475 Borg warners.

The 088 heads are 320cc stock. Good Valve job and home port work I was shooting for 400/[email protected] with them. 2.25 intake valves and 1.88 exhaust.

It takes about a 20 cc dome to get 9.3:1 compression.

I too had planned on adapting an LS computer to run the motor. MSD makes a 1X cam sync to work with a Gen 3 LS ecu. I am also working on building a hub to adapt the crank hub to the balancer.

Edelbrock makes a Proflo EFI intake for a BBC that I think would work great.

I want to build my own intake using the bottom half of a wieland TR2 tunnel ram. I am gonna build my own upper to bolt to that that has twin LS 78mm throttle bodies. A pair of these have more throttle bore area than a monoblade 105 and can be had for 50 bucks each.

The cop ignition should be hot enough to fire just about any fuel I might want to try.

I am considering E85 or 100% methanol... I've also worked out a plan for the engine to be dual fueled between pump gas and methanol. 2 complete fuel systems and pumps. A mechanical pump with an electromagnetic clutch, and A ecu that has 2 prom chips so 2 separate tunes can be had. Gonna have two sets of injectors. 2nd set ran be an aem driver box piggybacked off the stock ones. This setup should allow switching between fuels by doing nothing but shutting the engine off, flipping a switch, refiring it and wait for the methanol to hit the injectors.

Fill the block... use a killer aluminum rod to keep from beating the shit out of the crank and transferring stress to the block... and this thing should be able to make 1400-1500 hp and live season to season with proper maintenance. It's not a build it and forget it type build but I like to tinker so I don't usually build stuff that is for myself. I make changes too often and mess around with stuff.
 

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On the fuel system... the Gasoline would only run through the bottom set of injectors.

That set of injectors would have a y plumbed in 2 into 1 with 1 way check valves on each side. gas line to one side..Methanol line to the other. this would prevent backwashing either fuel into the other side of the Y fitting.

The 2nd set of injectors would be turned off on gasoline. When you flip the switch for the Ecu and fuel pump, it would turn on the driver box and fire them off the piggybacked signal of the first set. It seems that the AEM driver box carries its own power supply to actually fire the injector and only needs enough juice off the primary injector to signal the box. 5 milliamps... from what i can dig up this is not enough draw to be detrimental to the operation of the set driven by the LS computer.

My system has 2 seperate pumps as well. an electric in tank for gas and the big mechanical pump for the methanol. figuring that will be for racing only.... a small 3 gallon cell mounted under hood will feed it.

The one way check valves will allow the primary injectors to switch between gas and methanol without any kind of manual valve.

I have not worked through how to switch the return lines over on the primary set of injectors yet. Maybe an electric solenoid valve of some sort so the whole operation is at the flip of a switch. I had pictured 2 fuel regulators in my system with the secondary injectors plumbed for methanol only on the feed and return. This way i only have 1 return line that has to switch from gas to methanol in some fashion.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
My thought was to run one pressure reg Y pieced from both rails. Therefore having one reg, one return line of the reg with a Y piece with an electronic valve and the gasoline washes out the meth within seconds of first start up. So on my theoretical setup I would manually changing plugs on the injectors and flicking a switch for the fuel pumps. I just thought this was simple with less things to go wrong. I am liking the way you are thinking!!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Looking at a BBC this week (in bits). What do I look for? How can I tell what generation block it is etc? And if the heads are a good design etc? Any numbers or castings on the block/heads?
 

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All junk parts or block an heads. I would say the crank shaft is going to be the weak link here. GM steel cranks are pretty bad about cracking. I would go with a 990 head or a set of 049s an have someone clean them up an do a killer valve job. Some of the older truck blocks were casted pretty good.
 

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My recipe.

Gen 5 454 block.
044 forged steel factory crank.
088 heads.
Good rods and pistons
My own speced cam
Pair of S475 Borg warners.

The 088 heads are 320cc stock. Good Valve job and home port work I was shooting for 400/[email protected] with them. 2.25 intake valves and 1.88 exhaust.

It takes about a 20 cc dome to get 9.3:1 compression.

I too had planned on adapting an LS computer to run the motor. MSD makes a 1X cam sync to work with a Gen 3 LS ecu. I am also working on building a hub to adapt the crank hub to the balancer.

Edelbrock makes a Proflo EFI intake for a BBC that I think would work great.

I want to build my own intake using the bottom half of a wieland TR2 tunnel ram. I am gonna build my own upper to bolt to that that has twin LS 78mm throttle bodies. A pair of these have more throttle bore area than a monoblade 105 and can be had for 50 bucks each.

The cop ignition should be hot enough to fire just about any fuel I might want to try.

I am considering E85 or 100% methanol... I've also worked out a plan for the engine to be dual fueled between pump gas and methanol. 2 complete fuel systems and pumps. A mechanical pump with an electromagnetic clutch, and A ecu that has 2 prom chips so 2 separate tunes can be had. Gonna have two sets of injectors. 2nd set ran be an aem driver box piggybacked off the stock ones. This setup should allow switching between fuels by doing nothing but shutting the engine off, flipping a switch, refiring it and wait for the methanol to hit the injectors.

Fill the block... use a killer aluminum rod to keep from beating the shit out of the crank and transferring stress to the block... and this thing should be able to make 1400-1500 hp and live season to season with proper maintenance. It's not a build it and forget it type build but I like to tinker so I don't usually build stuff that is for myself. I make changes too often and mess around with stuff.
Any updates on this???
 
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