[JCRVETTE]

We have had several people ask for pics of our Adjustable IC Upper Torque Box installed so I thought I would do a build thread on a car we are building that we put them in. There are tons of pics all over the net of our Adjustable IC Mustang lower torque boxes so I wont go into to much detail on them. Feel free to ask questions if I omit something of importance.
Here is the car on the rotisserie getting some trimming done

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We pressure washed it and got ready to put it up on the jig table

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We have already put the lower boxes in while on the rotisserie since our design only allows the boxes to go in in one place and its much easier to do up there. For those who aren't familiar with them, they are completely tig welded and feature 1/4" chrome moly IC plates, and uses a 3/4" DOM sleeve to bush the rod end to size that allows us to use 1/2" bolts for finer adjustment, and makes the bolt virtually unbendable due to the bolt/DOM sleeve being the equivalent of 3/4" as an assembly.



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Since most of the cage/chassis is a design we have built/used before we were also able to fab up the lower tubing while we had it on the rotisserie and temporarily screwed it in place.

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We got the car on the jig table and marked the location of the OEM upper control arm hole and transferred it to the rail for comparison later. The boxes can definatly be put in on the shop floor if the car is leveled first, but we were going up on the table anyway so we did it there.

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We cut the spot welds and removed the OEM box


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We fabbed up a set of our upper boxes. They are completely tig welded chrome moly with 1/4" IC adjustment plates with 1/4" doublers (thats the equivalent of 3/4" mild steel for the IC plates), 11 holes with .300" hole spacing.




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Our interlocking design ensures they are completely welded inside and out, even the hard to get areas that some leave unwelded. There are several other places that interlock and weld too.

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The hardware for the uppers is 3/4 DOM also

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They weigh in at about 13.25 lbs inc hardware

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We set the upper boxes in the car for a quick mock up and to mark the areas that needed to be cleaned up for welding

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The boxes go up against the top of the rail and back against the floor (roughly only in one place/ self aligning) so we checked that too

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And confirmed the OEM hole location to our designated stock hole


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Our plated and gusseted design allows for increased weld surface area along the frame rail and allows the box to be trimmed to fit if there is damage to the OEM rails in the box mount area. The boxes are profiled and cut to size as delivered and typically fit as shown. In our mockup cars, they would hold themselves in place without clamps, but we clamped them just in case so it wouldn't fall out on my head lol.

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Thanks for your interest it is greatly appreciated!

 

[JCRVETTE]

We then fabed up some tie in tubes out of 1.5" x .065" CM. They will also be used as part of the rear framerail spec for the 25.3


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If we had done the floor tube inside the car, we would have simply went through the floor and tied in to it. If we didnt have any floor tube such as in a 8.50 cage or roll bar, we would have done a tube similar to this tube (below) and tied it into the main hoop like we would if we were reinforcing OEM upper boxes.

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More updates to follow
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[JCRVETTE]

Thx for the compliments guys

 

[JCRVETTE]

We got most of the tube put in the back and the upper boxes tied into the chassis using the lower diagonal uprights in the pic. Here is a couple pics of that. I will get some more pics together and keep the updates coming.


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[JCRVETTE]

Wow!!! You're all business Paul.

I really like the, line them up, knock them out, way you build cars.

Fabrication and detail work is very impressive.

Thx Karl. Its probably not as fast as it might appear. We designed the upper torque box on this car (at the owners behest), and between the design, mockups, cad files, and revisions, that adds time to the build. And, our laser cutting shops' laser broke down for several weeks during the upper box project. When we get a car in and get going, it goes fast (as with most shops). Unfortunately, alot of times, there are complications arising from other suppliers, vendors, and sometimes the customer can hold things up. Then we (all shops) have existing jobs get added on to almost every time by the customer (hey while you have a spot in the shop and are there, you might as well get everything you want done right?) and thats always good, but it pushes things back some too. Some jobs get out of line because of the customers finances or (customers) unforseen scheduling etc, and have to be put back into the rotation so it doesn't affect the other jobs waiting. Its sometimes a unpopular and hard to make call. We have had to wait at times months for customers to pay a draw or bring parts. That makes them sit and alot of times get put at the back of the line. So, when cars DO sit around, (at shops) there is always a story that goes with it. Although there are shops that let them sit for no fault other than their own, most shops have the best intentions of knocking them out and getting paid and getting the next one done and gone too. It seems all too often a job gets going and something throws a wrench in it and adds (sometimes significant amounts) time to the build. Every one contemplating a build should know that this stuff isnt cut n dried and there WILL be unforseen delays. Even as a shop owner I know that "life happens" and customers may not be able to avoid causing delays in time or payment. Thats why we dont put our money into the builds. In my mind a customers mortgage should be paid before me if their life get tough. I cant let that keep me from paying mine though. The key is to pick a shop you trust, love their work and be patient, understanding and ride it out knowing the end result will be worth the emotional roller coaster ride. Not sure why I got into all that (lol). But as much as I would like to look like a hero, But just being transparent, the car has been here a couple months and is slightly behind the schedule I though we could keep. But now, we are making chips and sparks and life is good lol

 

[JCRVETTE]

And thx to all for the interest and compliments!

 

[JCRVETTE]

I'm sure your customer completely understands everything that you just explained and if there is any frustration on the customer's end, it's the anticipation of the end and not frustration with you as a shop.

At least that's how I see it

You are an example of a great customer "I want to make sure I am not a cause for delays. Let me know what I need to do or bring and its done. I have the budget set aside for the build up to this level of completion, so when we get there we will reassess and continue appropriately" . If we could clone you, I could sell you to the shops as a perfect customer and be rich. lol You would get a cut of the action of course lol

 

[JCRVETTE]

My post wasnt directed at anyone or any thing, just trying to say I didnt get all the work shown done in a day
And, sometimes we have a car that sits a bit because of the "unforeseen" but it def isnt for the lack of trying on my or the car owners parts I would say.

 

[JCRVETTE]

Your builds are kick ass Paul!!

That's all that matters.

Thanks for the pictures. I got my uppers last week, waiting for the weather to cool down before I tackle it. My stock uppers have been welded so I'm not looking forward to removal, but if they are anything like the lowers, the actual install should be a breeze. Workmanship on both the upper and lower boxes is top notch :smt023

Thank you for your orders and compliments we greatly appreciate it!
The uppers go in real easy as they are pretty well self aligning. We do confirm the location of the old OEM hole though before welding. I think cutting the oem uppers out is easier than removing the oem lowers too. Yours being welded around the seams will take some more work, but the end result will be worth it for sure. Did you get a copy of the instructions? I know our first few uppers orders we were still working on the install guide. But now its done; there are several pages of notes and many many pics. Maybe even more detail that our lower install guide, if thats possible lol.
You will have to post pics of your install!

 

[JCRVETTE]

A few more update pics. Most of the rear tube is in. There are still a few pieces of spec tubes needed, and some x bracing, but getting there. As I said in the one post above, the laser cutters' machine being down set up back some, so we are doing some extra to make up for the inconvenience.

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We are working on the tube in front of the main hoop now. Then we will get it welded together instead of just tacked as it is currently. Will continue updates as I can. Thanks again for the interest and compliments!
We have another batch of laser cut parts coming in today to build more upper boxes (and lowers) if anyone needs them. Check our website for more info, and dont forget we offer package deals on upper/lower boxes if ordered together.

 

[JCRVETTE]

Let me tell you guys this..... This car is turning out to be BAD ASS!!!!

Wait until Paul posts the updated pics. :supz:

Very nice work! I'm starting on a new edge now. It's getting an 8.50 cage and I'm thinking it'll be an 8.3x car eventually. My question is, at what point are these boxes something that should be done? Also if i plan to keep a rear seat in mine how can the uppers be tied in to other structure? Thanks.

Thanks for the compliments guys. Someone saw spy pics Sorry, I have been crazy busy and haven't updated this in awhile. Also sorry for the delayed responses, I wanted to wait until I could give a detailed answer and not just a general reply.
I have seen 10 sec cars that destroyed the lower boxes that were left unreinforced. Once they get bent up they are nearly impossible to straighten up. Look for kinks or wrinkles around the square (ish) opening on the bottom and elsewhere around the box as evidence they have moved/bent. I've seen mid 9sec cars rip the uppers out completely that were left unwelded or reinforced. So that said, pretty much every one of these cars if they run decent need attention. You kinda have to ask your self what your current and future goals are for the car. Alot of guys can get away with, and be happy with welding up the oem. But, thats alot of work, and when done, you still have the oem factory sheetmetal box (lowers) sandwiched in there. The uppers, can be adequate welded and reinforced, but there again, the time and effort required, you can put our boxes in (uppers and/ or lowers) and have a superior in strength and adjustability component for future options. They arent hard at all to replace, and our designs only go in one place so its an easy install that is very hard to do wrong. One thing to keep in mind also, is if you weld/reinforce the oem now and decide to cut them out and upgrade later, they REALLY, REALLY, suck to cut out with all that weld and plating on them. You WILL be hating life then. Then, you have the someday resale value. A car with aftermarket uppers/lowers will always be more desirable than reinforced oem. And if the guy who is looking at buying a welded oem box car wants the upgraded adjustable boxes, he may not be willing to cut out the welds and plating and pass on buying the reinforced oem box car. I know I would.
On tieing our upper box in, if you didnt want to go though the inside of car to the main hoop,You can put a tube across (between) the frame rails down by the floor, similar to what we have done for the 25.3 spec in the pics, (only between the rails and not below like we did) and run the tie in tubes down like we did in the pics here Its a good place for a rear driveshaft loop too. Then if you decide to do a 25x spec you can tie it all in then, or tie it into the subframe connectors now, depending on how they are done, or fab them to suit the build. I also am 99 percent sure a slower car, maybe mid nines or so wouldn't need tie in tubes, but I cant recommend that just in case something happened. It is my opinion the every aftermarket upper box (well the ones I have seen anyway) should be tied in to be safe. Our upper box, with its boxed, plated and gusseted design (the side adj plates being in most areas 1/2" chrome moly, equal to 3/4" mild steel), 1.625 CM upper x member, and being welded to the frame rail vertical and horizontally, which is ALOT of weld surface and strength, would have to be pulled out of square AND rip the welds at the rail to fail, I dont see that happening, but I wont make that call when someones car and life are at stake. My official position is tie in all aftermarket boxes including ours.
I hope this has helped. If you have any further questions feel free to ask here or call me at the shop at (352)821-FAST Thanks for the great question. Paul @ JCR

 

[JCRVETTE]

Thanks for the great and detailed response. My car should be going to the chassis shop soon so I'll be making the decision shortly, thanks again!

No problem. Always willing to help out. I just want to make sure people get what they want/need. We sell plenty of parts and have tons of work. I dont need to "sell" anything to those who dont need/want something. I try to give customers the facts as I know/understand them, and if I sell something or do the work, great. If not we all sleep well. Good luck w your build.

 

[JCRVETTE]

Your upper and lower mounts are a work of art. I also like the bars tying in uppers to driveshaft loop cross member. Excellent work thanks for pictures.

Thx. I am going to look through pics and see if what I have for updates.

 

[JCRVETTE]

Updates.
We got the ARB fabbed/welded ready to go in

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The JCR four link bars are fabbed, welded and done

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JCR Mini tubs are fabed and ready to mock up

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JCR 'Chute tether tabs are fabbed and done

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The JCR upper shock mnts are fabbed and done. It is cut from 3/16 CM with 1/4" CM doubler to fit the 1.5" lower rail tube for 1" wide shock bearing



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And the rest of the tube is in.

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Thats all for now. I will look though pics and post more as soon as I get a few minutes. Thank you for all the kind words and compliments everyone. Its greatly appreciated.

 

[JCRVETTE]

I know at some point I need to upgrade mine. You now have me concerned since the prior owner did put in the reinforcements plus attempted to weld every seam...albeit very poorly. Also my car was a stick shift car for many years so I'm sure there's some fatigue in all the wrong areas.
When it's time I've no doubt I'm using your products. Any advice on where to begin with something like this? Cut it all out and find a donor car for frame rails?

I wouldn't be too concerned... while a stick car is harder on the oem boxes, I dont think I have seen damage transferred elsewhere. Cutting out the oem boxes after they have been welded can definitely be done, it just takes patience and a grinder to grind down the welds in addition to cutting out the spot welds. I like to grind the spot welds to release them in most areas anyway. Once the metal gets thin (from grinding) it will just pull away or can be yanked off with pliers a strip at a time. When done (spot welds ground off) right, there are no holes; unlike the spotweld cutter type removal. Unless you grind through to many layers.... The grind out spotweld method does take some practice to perfect. I did heavy collision (automotive) repair for about 30 years, so I cut/ground a bunch of em.
Thx for the compliments. We look forward to being a part of your build.

 

[JCRVETTE]

Come on Paul, stop hoarding the pictures of that work of art you created.

Very nice build.

I'm workin on it

 

[JCRVETTE]

Some more pics and updates.
Welded a SS ground lug on the rear tubing. There are a few more around the car too.

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Finished all the tube and got all the welding done. We removed the upper c arm mnt with the tie in tubes (they also serve as 25.3 spec rear tubes) that was tacked in so it could be welded completely, and easily. The angle iron cross brace tacked to it keeps the tube from drawing in from the welding so it lines up when reinstalled permanently.




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Getting the mini tubs mocked up and the upper shock mnt, and the rest of the x bracing. This car is getting a sheetmetal tubs and rear floor welded in, so that will take the place of some of the x bracing we would do if it were getting and alum or carbon floor that doesnt provide the shear plate effect type strength that a welded in steel floor would provide.

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Quick mock up of rear suspension and the JCR 9" Ford Mustang CM housing

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Starting on the floor tin


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Rear firewall fab and mock up


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Package tray in and trunk floor mocked up ready for cleanup, final trim and welding

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Thats all for now. I will look through the rest of the pics and post some more when I get a few minutes. Thanks again everyone for the interest and kind words.

 

[JCRVETTE]

Thx for the compliments guys. it means alot and is greatly appreciated.
A few update pics.
We made up some fuel cell spacers to keep the cell from protruding under the floor and to keep the fuel level higher than where we wanted to mnt to pump.

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Fabbed and welded some mnt tabs to the cell

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Fabbed up a fuel pump mnt

Got it welded to place

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Fabbed up a fire system activated battery cutoff system. Upon fire system activation the pnuematic cylinder turns the power off.

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Components mounted. Sorry my potato phone splays things out some.

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Thats all for now. i will post some more soon.

 

[JCRVETTE]

Looking really good.

THX

I like the fire bottle piston on the shutoff switch, I bought the mcamis setup and had to refab my entire cutoff switch bracket to make it work, but I too feel that this is a safety item that is worth it's trouble to have.

Yep. The fire system bat cutoff was not part of the orig build, but the owner decided later he wanted it so we had to come up with a way to make it work the way we installed the bat switch.

 

[JCRVETTE]

I noticed I never put up pics of the 9" Chrome Moly rear housing we do for the Mustangs, one of which is in this build. It has 3.5" .250 wall CM axle tubes, fits a 9.5" ring gear, has doublers on all the c arm brkts. We do sell them, and most of the other stuff you see in this builds too. Msg me or call the shop for more info.





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We also build this rear housing with our adjustable upper shock mount and fixed lower shock mnt that allows very fine adjustment of the IC. It was an option we discussed with the customer that he opted out of. But this is the rear housing in that configuration. We also sell this one and the upper mount.




This is the upper shock mount (on a different build) that we do that goes with this config housing

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Thanks again for the interest, compliments and comments.
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