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Discussion Starter #1
All the recent safety talk raised my concern on the 1/4 ball valve I have in the car. Check the pics below.

I'm wondering if this is a safety risk, or if this is similar to what others are doing. Cell phone pics, sorry....




 

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RED ROCKET
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my valves are in the same place but much larger
 

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FAQU
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Here's a shot of mine, using a 3/8" ball valve and -6 AN line, it makes it nice to keep track of the bottle pressure with the bottle valve open and no pressure on the noids. First thing I do after going through the traps is close the valve and bleed all the pressure out of the line.

 

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TRZ Rocks!
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Breaking a drive shaft and taking out the bottle may be a concern.
 

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one thing i noticed and not sure just bringing it up but that looks like a brass valve like i have on my flow tool from home depot . those brass ones are only good for 300 to 600 psi and are good for fuel not 1500 like the the ones from grainger . hard to tell from the pics
 

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if that is the brass ones you can get a higher psi on at grainger for about 28 bucks .. good to 2000 psi
 

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I bought a used bottle and it came with a brass 1/4 turn Parker valve and some misc lines. I couldn't find the pressure rating on that brand valve and I bought 3000 PSI WOG 1/4 turn valves that were SS. I used them in the car on on my fill station.
 

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As long as the bottle is secured along with the 1/4 turn valve I wouldn't be to worried. If you do have part failure, such as a fitting, you want to keep any pieces that may fly around as small as possible. Another thing that is sorta on topic, is a full face mask, with either glasses on or the shield covering your face. Remember you only have 2 eyes and you need both of them to see correctly.
 

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As long as the bottle is secured along with the 1/4 turn valve I wouldn't be to worried. If you do have part failure, such as a fitting, you want to keep any pieces that may fly around as small as possible. Another thing that is sorta on topic, is a full face helmet, with either glasses on or the shield covering your face. Remember you only have 2 eyes and you need both of them to see correctly.
EDIT
 

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All the recent safety talk raised my concern on the 1/4 ball valve I have in the car. Check the pics below.

I'm wondering if this is a safety risk, or if this is similar to what others are doing. Cell phone pics, sorry....





Here's a shot of mine, using a 3/8" ball valve and -6 AN line, it makes it nice to keep track of the bottle pressure with the bottle valve open and no pressure on the noids. First thing I do after going through the traps is close the valve and bleed all the pressure out of the line.

Arrangements like this with a tank valve and a remote valve present the possibility of trapping 100% liquid N2O between the two closed valves.

Above the critical temperature of 97.5°F, as temperature rises, the pressure rises at a nearly vertical rate if 100% liquid is trapped with no means of expansion or pressure relief.

http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=240363

For safety, the bottles used for N2O are only liquid filled to 68% of total volume when “full”. The other 32% is a necessary gas volume to prevent dangerous over-pressure which will occur with expansion resulting from temperatures above the N2O critical temperature, 97.5° F.
 

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The working pressure is usually stamped on the valve. You have to watch out for this. They are underrated but I still wouldn't use a 600 for a nitrous system. The. Wog means its good for water oil and gas. Get a good valve! These are not pretty when they come apart or leak due to pressure overload!
 

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RED ROCKET
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i turn my bottles off and then bleed my lines down after a pass.nothing in the lines and the guages read 0.
 

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EFI/N2O JUNKIE
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I agree with Yeti, that is why I close the bottle valve after a pass and purge whatever is left in the lines.

Those aluminum mounts are nice-looking, but I won't use them. They have nothing there to stop a bottle from coming forwards out of those mounts if you hit head-on hard. I sure don't want that bottle flying-around, even if the valve was closed.

I went with a steel mount from Chassis Engineering. Not pretty, but once it's painted it looks ok. If has a ring around the end of the bottle that captures it so it can not come forwards. Well, anything can happen if you hit something hard enough............But I feel better with this design.

If I could have used the stand-up bottle mount in my car I would have.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for all the advice guys.

I do bleed the pressure off after every run, and I make sure to bleed the pressure with the 1/4 valve open and the bottle valve closed to get that line pressure out as well.

I will have to check closer on this 1/4 valve, but I wouldn't think nitrous express would sell a valve specifically for nitrous use that wasn't rated for enough pressure?
 
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