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Satans Daddy
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I have a brand new small base circle Solid roller 274/282 .460/.450 112+4 cam motion cam for sale would be a good option in that thing. I’d let it go for $220 shipped
Is that lift at the lobe or valve?
Just curious.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Stop guessing, call Bullet and get the right grind the first time!
I hear ya. But for side story sake.
Not looking to bash any company I'm the guy that doesn't have luck with vendors and things work out this way for me no matter who I go through. Case in point I contacted Herbert that suggested the cam that's no good and then I had a converter built from a vendor that had all my information. After I ran the car and contacted the converter builder they told me to send it back. So after 4 runs with it, I took the car apart, sent the converter back only to be told that the converter should work for the car based on all the 427 combinations they have on record. So I get to pay for shipping back to me all for nothing. So I'm a little gun shy about the "experts". I can guess wrong just as well as they can make mistakes on their end.
 

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So why did they not tell you that before asking to send it back? They should know what they built without out having to look at it?

I have a couple of UCC converters from a 421 SBC combo if you want to try something else. PM me if interested.
 

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Like others said , a lot of duration. Only way to find out is to put something smaller in the engine.
Not really.

The duration of his cam is only 10* more on both sides, than the cam I ran in my 406 sbc alky burner.
 

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The problem is not the cam. I had a 305 cu in engine with a similar size cam and it ran good. You have other problems. I can’t imagine an engine with that much cu in needing a 6200 converter. That being said it’s probably not the best cam selection and it will need some rpm to run. How did you degree the cam. I would say you need to have it installed at about 102 CL. The cam should also have a 106 lobe separation. Did you check piston to valve clearance when the engine was assembled. Who built the converter.
DING DING DING ..... !!!!
 

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Not quite that simple
Yeah ... it kinda is. If he would install the grind I used in my 406, with no other changes, he'd swear it was a completely different engine. That is if his comp is what he says it is.
 

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I didn't degree the cam. Cam is installed it straight up. Cam card says it's got a 116 lobe center and 112 center line. I don't remember the valve to piston clearance but is was enough that I have nothing to worry with the current lift. Converter is a Coan.
There is no straight up with race cams. You have to degree them to know what you have. My guess is it is severely retarded if not a tooth off. 116 is a very wide LS for any small block no matter what CU. IN. I bought an engine from a friend of mine for my super stock car. It was all good parts but would not run like my engines. They had the cam one tooth off retarder on the belt. I went through the engine and adjusted everything the way I like it and it picked up 4 tenths. It was an excellent engine just as the assembled correctly. I don’t have much experience with Coan other than buying parts from them. They are one of the top companies and should have gotten your converter pretty close on the first go round unless you gave them bad input on what you thought you had. You need the get a good engine guy to go through it and see what is wrong with the engine
 

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I hear ya. But for side story sake.
Not looking to bash any company I'm the guy that doesn't have luck with vendors and things work out this way for me no matter who I go through. Case in point I contacted Herbert that suggested the cam that's no good and then I had a converter built from a vendor that had all my information. After I ran the car and contacted the converter builder they told me to send it back. So after 4 runs with it, I took the car apart, sent the converter back only to be told that the converter should work for the car based on all the 427 combinations they have on record. So I get to pay for shipping back to me all for nothing. So I'm a little gun shy about the "experts". I can guess wrong just as well as they can make mistakes on their end.
I get ya. First off, Coan knows convertors. They built both of mine and both worked flawlessly after I had them tightened up after installing my 406 that replaced a 377 I started racing with. I ran the same conv that I had behind the 377 just to see what I needed to do. We had the conv stall around 5800 for the 377. Then after a weekend behind the 406, had Coan tighten it to 5200. Perrrrrfect !!

Since you gave them the dyno info then that's what they built the conv to. Just remember, dynos and on track performance are two different things.

Swap cams then work on the conv if it's needed. PM me if you need assistance.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I get ya. First off, Coan knows convertors. They built both of mine and both worked flawlessly after I had them tightened up after installing my 406 that replaced a 377 I started racing with. I ran the same conv that I had behind the 377 just to see what I needed to do. We had the conv stall around 5800 for the 377. Then after a weekend behind the 406, had Coan tighten it to 5200. Perrrrrfect !!

Since you gave them the dyno info then that's what they built the conv to. Just remember, dynos and on track performance are two different things.

Swap cams then work on the conv if it's needed. PM me if you need assistance.
Yes, Coan has been really good and on the ball with communication. And as it's been pointed out here I don't think my problem has anything to do with their converter. I'm just the one in a thousand guy that gets hung up in a hiccup with a company. I filled out Bullets cam recommendation form. I'll see where that takes me.
 

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(y)
 

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There is no straight up with race cams. You have to degree them to know what you have. My guess is it is severely retarded if not a tooth off. 116 is a very wide LS for any small block no matter what CU. IN. I bought an engine from a friend of mine for my super stock car. It was all good parts but would not run like my engines. They had the cam one tooth off retarder on the belt. I went through the engine and adjusted everything the way I like it and it picked up 4 tenths. It was an excellent engine just as the assembled correctly..
Yep. Sounds like its a tooth off.
My bet..
 

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10 deg is a ton...ive had cams with 3-4 deg too much on the intake side loose 50hp...
Intake valve closing point not optimized?
 

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I didn't degree the cam. Cam is installed it straight up. Cam card says it's got a 116 lobe center and 112 center line. I don't remember the valve to piston clearance but is was enough that I have nothing to worry with the current lift. Converter is a Coan.
how much cranking pressure it got at the plug. I’m betting under 150psi
 

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I have a 274 deg. @ .050 intake lobe in my tall deck 450 SBC. Peak TQ is at 6100 RPM (714 lb-ft) Peak power is at 7600 RPM (915 HP). It also has .865” lift.

You have a 1974 cam design. Too much duration and not near enough lift. Been there and done that on my 1st “real” race engine 20+ years ago. I got there by also calling all of the big name can companies and buying a cam. I don’t do that anymore. I was fortunate enough to have someone help me and open my eyes.

IMO cam companies design cam lobes and grind cams. They don’t do the best job of picking out the correct combination of lobes for a particular engine. You get the average of the 1000’s of people wanting a cam for an SBC.


Jason G.
 

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Ok72, your getting some good info on where to look by nd40, FlyinRyan and Jason G. Bigblockmark gave a name at bullet, call and get his recommandations? Doesn't cost anything to call Comp, Bullet and Jones cam and see what they say.
There is always the possibility it is something else, but looks like the cam is the first place too look. Flyin is pretty smart with SBc engines too!!!
 
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