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This is after I got done cleaning the core. Hooefully its flowing well enough and not a hinderance in flow.
http://youtu.be/J3M50UhILGI
http://youtu.be/J3M50UhILGI
Just remember your on household water pressure, which is much higher than what the pumps in the cars can do. Only way to know for sure is see how much back pressure it had while flowing water thru it.
Righto^^^^^Just remember your on household water pressure, which is much higher than what the pumps in the cars can do. Only way to know for sure is see how much back pressure it had while flowing water thru it.
Ya, that would be a better test as to how it will do in the car. Since those are a volume pump that do low PSI.Did some research and decided to Disconect supply/return lines and soak with CLR for about 30 min then flush with water hose. Got alot of slimy looking scaly debris out of there. Flow seems to have improved on the return side at the tank visibly, less backpressure by feel on the pump line going to the core as well.
Found a 3500 Sealflo bilge for cheap, going to throw that in and retest. Not ready to bite the $$$ yet for the LPE.
Ya, that would be a better test as to how it will do in the car. Since those are a volume pump that do low PSI.
3500 flowed the same as the 2000. Bottlenecked at IC core....
More testing to come after the snow melts and I can get car to dyno and datalogged with street data also.
NICEI made a pump change on my car this weekend. I switched from a PRP billet remote 50 GPH engine cooling pump (very nice pump) to a Davies Craig EWP 150. with the voltage regulated to 14 volts during both tests, filling approx 5.5 gal bucket the old pump took 58.6 seconds to fill the bucket, the Davies Craig only took 18.5ish seconds! My plumbing consists of approx 10' of 1.25" ID hard plastic line with 3 45's, 6' 1.25" id flex hose, and 2 -12an lines ea 4' long. Through a 417 Motorsports intercooler and back through a return line that basically duplicates the supply line.
Way way better than a factory pump. the factory pump does not move alot of water!*********
ANY UPDATES ON THIS?
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Squidd, anyone?
About to finish up the rear ice tank on my '14 GT500. Thankfully I have the updated OEM pump, but I don't want to disturb the factory compnents upfront.
I had thought of just adding a second stock pump in the rear off the tank until reading this entire thread.
Not sure I want to keep it to just the single stock pump in front, also not sure I want to spend $550 on the LPE although it is very nice and the best solution with the OEM lines/intercooler.
Any other pump options explored?
-J
Any info on this new meziere pump? I currently have 20' of -16 lines going to a HE then to two garrett 1000hp cores and another 20' back to the tank. It works ok I can get inlet temps down to the 50s before a run but am seeing 110-120* at the end of the run. This is at 50 -52psi of boost. Not terrible but I am going with a bigger tank now and wouldn't mind upgrading to the baddest thing out since I can't run any bigger lines and have a couple 90* and 45* fittings in the system as well.The high flow/low psi pumps work like crap in most IC setups period.The only way I have been able to get them to work well is with REALLY big lines/fittings, which in a lot of cases isn't possible.
There aren't many high pressure pumps to choose from though. The Lingenfelter works good. But it's pricey, kind of a bitch to mount and pulls a ton of power. Meziere has a pump they are about to release that is supposed to kick the guts out of the Lingenfelter. But it's HUGE and $$$$$$. They are sending me a prototype to test here shortly. We'll see what it does.
I guess not, I'm just adding a second stock '13-14 GT500 pump to the rear ice tank.Nobody home?
at least a 50% increase, and double the pressureI guess not, I'm just adding a second stock '13-14 GT500 pump to the rear ice tank.
I think the Lingenfelter pump is best but twice the price, I can get the GT500 for $275.
No definite answer having 2 pumps in series.
-J