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Tape your intake gaskets to the heads.

Match your gaskets to the ports in the heads.

Drill 2 1/8" holes in the intake flange, on each end that will not affect anything in the head/intake.

Fasten the intake to the heads over the taped gaskets.

Re-insert your 1/8" drill bit thru the holes and drill thru the gaskets.

Remove the gaskets from the heads and put them against the intake flange of the manifold and align them with 2 drill bits....

You now have a template.
 

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Aren't you doing a 2971? I'll be doing mine soon. If the snow will clear so UPS can get here!!!
 

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Tape your intake gaskets to the heads.

Match your gaskets to the ports in the heads.

Drill 2 1/8" holes in the intake flange, on each end that will not affect anything in the head/intake.

Fasten the intake to the heads over the taped gaskets.

Re-insert your 1/8" drill bit thru the holes and drill thru the gaskets.

Remove the gaskets from the heads and put them against the intake flange of the manifold and align them with 2 drill bits....

You now have a template.

Very informative... Thank you!! ;)
 

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What I do in the shop, only because ports never really match the gasket ever? I mean exactly? This is what I do. Dykem around the ports on the head and run it to the top of the head til it reaches the vc rail. Then scribe lines of the side of the port all the way up as far as you can, make sure they are exactly on the ports edge, if you can transfer onto vc rail (better yet). Now put dykem on the outer edge of your manifold and on the intake flange around the ports. Set heads on your block with head gaskets. Set the manifold on with no gaskets on. With manifold laying directly on heads and it lined up to where the bolt holes are centered. The scribe marks should be poking out above the manifold flange with no gaskets on. Transfer your scribe marks over to the outer edge of the manifold, Pull off manifold, then with a square, transfer those marks down beside the ports on the intake flange, that will get an exact side to side, measure all widths to make sure your scribe marks are exactly the same. Now put a .060 shim or a piece of gasket (whatever thickness you are using) on all four corners of the manifold laying on heads, with the shims it allows you to make sure the manifold is sitting squarely on the heads (gasket material sometimes gives too much). Now take and lay scribe on the top edge of the manifold then scribe a line on your heads on the tops of all 8 runners (actually 4 groupings on sbc). Now pull the manifold off, measure down with a pair of calipers the distance from line to top of runner and that distance will be what you need to mark from the top of your intake (above runner). Make sure you measure all 4 groupings not all manifolds are machined and or parallel to the vc rail. Measure the port on the head for ht. and then mark down from your top of port line down that amount and now you have bottom of port. Straight edge will make those scribe lines the same. Now you have perfectly matched the port dimensions , now you have to figure the radius. Either with radius tool or shims or whatever you can find round that matched the heads radius, then on your manifold scribe all four corners of each port with that radius. Now you are ready to port, and only port just shy of the line and then you can polish to the line. If you can keep it a slight smaller than head its less likely you will show any head anywhere. My way may be more time consuming buty its how I layout all of my manifolds.

You know now that I read it, I think only I can understand, sorry if I have confused anybody to the point of needing an aspirin. But if you can follow along it works well : )

Rich Maitre
RAM Racing Heads
www.ramracing.us
 

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Correct the gaskets rarely match the ports. That's why I stated that you need to match the gaskets to the ports.... ie, get a hobby razor and trim it to fit... best to start with a small gasket.
 

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What I do in the shop, only because ports never really match the gasket ever? I mean exactly? This is what I do. Dykem around the ports on the head and run it to the top of the head til it reaches the vc rail. Then scribe lines of the side of the port all the way up as far as you can, make sure they are exactly on the ports edge, if you can transfer onto vc rail (better yet). Now put dykem on the outer edge of your manifold and on the intake flange around the ports. Set heads on your block with head gaskets. Set the manifold on with no gaskets on. With manifold laying directly on heads and it lined up to where the bolt holes are centered. The scribe marks should be poking out above the manifold flange with no gaskets on. Transfer your scribe marks over to the outer edge of the manifold, Pull off manifold, then with a square, transfer those marks down beside the ports on the intake flange, that will get an exact side to side, measure all widths to make sure your scribe marks are exactly the same. Now put a .060 shim or a piece of gasket (whatever thickness you are using) on all four corners of the manifold laying on heads, with the shims it allows you to make sure the manifold is sitting squarely on the heads (gasket material sometimes gives too much). Now take and lay scribe on the top edge of the manifold then scribe a line on your heads on the tops of all 8 runners (actually 4 groupings on sbc). Now pull the manifold off, measure down with a pair of calipers the distance from line to top of runner and that distance will be what you need to mark from the top of your intake (above runner). Make sure you measure all 4 groupings not all manifolds are machined and or parallel to the vc rail. Measure the port on the head for ht. and then mark down from your top of port line down that amount and now you have bottom of port. Straight edge will make those scribe lines the same. Now you have perfectly matched the port dimensions , now you have to figure the radius. Either with radius tool or shims or whatever you can find round that matched the heads radius, then on your manifold scribe all four corners of each port with that radius. Now you are ready to port, and only port just shy of the line and then you can polish to the line. If you can keep it a slight smaller than head its less likely you will show any head anywhere. My way may be more time consuming buty its how I layout all of my manifolds.

You know now that I read it, I think only I can understand, sorry if I have confused anybody to the point of needing an aspirin. But if you can follow along it works well : )

Rich Maitre
RAM Racing Heads
www.ramracing.us
x2 thats how i do it, also for the radius i go to toolbox and match a socket up to the radius, bigger radius just go a bigger socket. simple.
 

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I feel very lucky, my father has given me all of his machinist tools along with a nice leather packet full of radius guages, never used them much before, now every chance I get : )
 

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nice info!!! only thing i remember my shop saying is they dont quite open the intake quite as big as the gasket...why? dunno-anyone ever hear of that?
 

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Tape your intake gaskets to the heads.

Match your gaskets to the ports in the heads.

Drill 2 1/8" holes in the intake flange, on each end that will not affect anything in the head/intake.

Fasten the intake to the heads over the taped gaskets.

Re-insert your 1/8" drill bit thru the holes and drill thru the gaskets.

Remove the gaskets from the heads and put them against the intake flange of the manifold and align them with 2 drill bits....

You now have a template.
Priceless info, thanks for sharing Chris. Even though you didn't have to, i apreciate the info, as i'm sure other do as well.
 
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