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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have 8 O2 bungs to install in my header tubes.
What do you guys use to drill the holes with?
I saw 2 videos that used a step drill bit and another with a hole saw.
What's the best way in your opinion. I want to get this done tomorrow.

Also how far down the pipe from the head is ideal?
 

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The AutoMeter instructions say the oxygen sensor should be installed as close to the cylinder head as is reasonably possible so that the sensor reaches operating temperature quickly. If long tube headers are used, the sensor should be installed in the collector. If cast iron manifold(s) or shorty headers are used, install the sensor in the pipe just below the manifold. Turbocharged applications should have the sensor installed 4-5" after turbo on the down pipe. The exhaust pipe in front of the sensor should not contain any pockets, projections, protrusions, edges, flex-tubes, etc to avoid accumulation of condensation. A downwards slope of the pipe is recommended. If the exhaust pipe is parallel to the ground, the sensor must be installed in the top half of the pipe to avoid damage due to condensation.

So the key is close to heads so sensor heats up quickly, placed on top half of pipe preferably on down sloped pipe so condensation issues are avoided and no air leaks that could affect sensor reading.
 

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Hole saw or unibit for mild steel. Unibit will work for stainless but better yet it the carbide tipped hole saws. Those sumbitches chew through stainless like butter and leave a nice hole for welding prep.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
anyone know the correct hole saw size for the weld in bung? Don't want to go too big and screw it up.
 

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Unibit works best.
.875- 15/16 is the step on the one in front of me.
The one I got with my racepak o2 has no step and is 1" outside dia.
 

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Hole saw or unibit for mild steel. Unibit will work for stainless but better yet it the carbide tipped hole saws.
Those sumbitches chew through stainless like butter and leave a nice hole for welding prep.

My stainless steel was done by the header guy, I did my mild steel with a uni bit and it was easy & smooth.


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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
My stainless steel was done by the header guy, I did my mild steel with a uni bit and it was easy & smooth.


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These headers are mild steel.
Unfortunately we just got hit with 5" of snow and I can't pull one of the cars out that's under the lift and the car I am working on is on the top lift.
 

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at my job, I am welding O2 sensor bungs in constantly. Like, test pipes with 20 or 30 bungs. It depends on the size of the bung, if it has a locating step on the bottom or not. All the O2 bungs I have ever done take a 7/8" hole. I use a 7/8" Rota-broach. Cut slow and they make a nice round hole. On collectors, you want to make sure they are down stream enough for proper exhaust gas mixing. However, on individual runners, or tubes, I would go 3-4" from the flange.
 
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