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Discussion Starter #1
I wanted to post them in here for critiquing. Most were taken @ 1/160th-200th shutter speed, 200 ISO, let the camera deal with the light, with a uv filter and polarizer stacked on a 18-58mm kit lens on my Rebel XT. Let me have it what do I need to do different? Only thing done to them is some cropping no other adjustments.



























 

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More practice panning. They not bad, but they are not great either. It was bright enough to shoot ISO 100, forget anything but 100 in daylight, set it and leave it. Lose both filters, as far as I'm concerned polarizers are for landscape photography, and UV filters a waste of money. Never used UV filters, never will. I don't know if you could move around, but try to get seats higher up. When I go to Joliet and Indy, I always buy a ticket in the top row, and a little bit down track so that I'm not shooting through a wall of media photographers.
 

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I'm with Tim on the panning! Some of them, you got left behind a bit, but it takes practice! ;) You did good for a kit lens, but you might want to invest in a longer one and sit higher up in the stands if you can't get on the track! Not a bad job, though!:) I sometimes use a polarizer, but not a UV. Polarizers take some getting used to. ;) Good advice on avoiding the media photographers by not being close to the starting line.;)
 

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You will benefit from a polarizer. It will make the car colors MUCH richer and the blacks much more vibrant, just make sure you have it clocked properly. For the UV, ditch it because it doesn't do anything.

I agree with the others on working on the panning. Also run AI SERVO when panning and keep the shutter held down 1/2 way, it will keep focusing until you let off.

Also, don't listen to anyone if they tell you that you can't pan with a polarizer on.

 

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You will benefit from a polarizer. It will make the car colors MUCH richer and the blacks much more vibrant, just make sure you have it clocked properly. For the UV, ditch it because it doesn't do anything.

I agree with the others on working on the panning. Also run AI SERVO when panning and keep the shutter held down 1/2 way, it will keep focusing until you let off.

Also, don't listen to anyone if they tell you that you can't pan with a polarizer on.

You don't need a polarizer to enrich colors if you know how to process RAW files properly. There is not a single shot on my website, with the exception of my Yosemite stuff, where I would have liked to have a polarizer on my lens. If you look at my Yosemite stuff I did not even use a polarizer there either, I forgot to take it with me!!
 

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Uses A Point and Shoot
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My photoshop skills are limited, but even if they weren't, wouldn't you like to have less glare and richer colors right out of the Camera so you can spend less time post processing? Also on glass you can see right through the front and the person driving it.

 

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But if it hits the glass wrong, especially on a aircraft canopy, you get a horrid looking rainbow effect. Colors out of the camera don't mean squat to me, I want a digital negative, a RAW file. I don't want Canon making decisions in camera for me on anything.
I have all kinds of time to process files. I refuse to shoot anything in jpeg. I want my images to look the best they can, that means RAW, and processing. I'm pretty fast at most shots now, less than a minute to get a RAW file done unless there is a bunch of dust to clone out.





I can see the drivers just fine here.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ok some of you guys made the statement that I was behind. As in shooting the cars from the side to rear quarter due to where I was seated or are you referring to something else I am over looking? I am thinking something else that hurt these is the fact that the smoke from the burnouts seemed to be hanging around the starting line all day, It was real bad when I shot the fuel cars. As far as the polarizer goes, Mark I had it clocked as you instructed in one of your threads to adjust till the concrete appears black.

Ok lets see what you think about these. Shot these inside the Jones Dome in STL, I don't think I ever posted them here. Shutter Priority @ 125, ISO 800,Canon EF 75-300mm f4/5.6 III, Pattern metering, Let the camera deal with the rest. Considering how the lighting and where our seats were I felt these turned out decent, but I'm asking cause I'm sure they could have been better.







 

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I'm pretty fast at most shots now, less than a minute to get a RAW file done unless there is a bunch of dust to clone out.
Maybe a quick tutorial we could use for a sticky here? Then people can also chime in with techniques they use that work. I'm all about learning more about photoshop!
 

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I love photoshop but I hate to retouch color etc unless I have to due to monitors etc being different. I've done it because they didn't look just right only to have prints come back looking like crap.
You have to calibrate your monitor. I use Mpix to print my stuff if somebody wants to buy something. My monitor is calibrated, but just a hare darker than what I want from the print. So I just brighten it a tad and they come back from Mpix perfect. I only have to worry about this on shots with a lot of shadow, brightly lit shots I just do my thing and send them the file, they match perfect.

You can't worry about what it is going to look like on other peoples monitors. If yours is calibrated, then you know you have it right. This is the calibrator I use.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JLO31M/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000CR78CO&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=18E9FXNTY2GZB5CMDM5D

It's not cheap, but it's worth the money.
 

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Maybe a quick tutorial we could use for a sticky here? Then people can also chime in with techniques they use that work. I'm all about learning more about photoshop!

I'm not the greatest person to be able to explain things!! For anybody that is trying to shoot RAW and process their files I always send them here, https://store.birdsasart.com/shop/category.aspx?catid=30

Buy the Digital Basics .pdf file. It will be the best $20 you ever spent. This is what I learned all the basic techniques from. You need to be using CS2-CS4 though to really get the most out of it. Art updates this file from time to time also. Once you spend the $20, you get the updates free for life.

Here is another link, it deals with aviation, but it works with anything. The part about cloning dust is the best technique I have ever used.
http://www.primeimages.co.uk/Photoshop%20tips/image%20processing%20workflow.htm
 

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just to add my view to this....

cpl - ive used one but havent gotten anything outstanding with it, but not to say it cant be done. i know i will be using it it this just to play and see what happens. as i belive it can be a good tool to use in certain situations.

UV filer - i have one on every one of my lenses. from what ive read its not so much to help picture quality as it is to help keep the UV from damaging the internals of the glass. if that is true or false i couldnt tell ya. but personally i have them simply as cheap protectors. if anything gets flung at me (rocks, rubber, water, dust, anything) it will hit the the cheap uv filter and not my front element. if i get a bunch of rubber from a burnout and dont have time to clean it good before taking the next pic i can simply unscrew it, take my pic, clean it, then put it back on. also its cheap insurance to me to keep my front element safe from debris. id rather have a rock chip a UV filer then my front element any day. if it breaks the filter and the element, well there wasnt much you could do anyway in the situation.


RAW - i shoot 100% of the time in RAW now, and made that change last year. the file sizes are larger so you will need a good hard drive to hold them, and good ram to have a lot of them open. as well as more memory cards. But i do the same as tim and spend very little time now processing the raw files (comparative to when i first started shooting). i have my camera set to how i like it, and select all my pics then batch process them with a file i set up that does a little bit of sharpening and saturation. then i go through each pic and save out the ones i want to upload, and leave the ones i dont on the hard drive. from there they go to photoshop, get cropped, get text (signature), and saved out as a low res copy which then gets uploaded. i do it so im constantly uploading pics to my site while i am cropping other pics. i batch process the text, the save, and the close at once time to cut down on time. but it took me months to find a good balance for the pics where i felt ok about batch processing them and not having to work every pic over for 15+ minutes. the better you get in camera the less time it takes to output. but it takes time to get better and better in camera shots.
 
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