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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I posted this in the tech section, but i think it belongs here instead...

Building a stock stroke 360 mopar combo, hoping to push me into the high 11's. Obviously it being a shorter stroke motor its going to need to rev higher to make some power. My LA block is a factory roller block and all along ive wanted to keep it this way since the roller would mean easier maintenance (And possibly more aggressive ramp profiles?). However, Im starting to wonder if staying hydraulic roller is going to limit my goals since from what i understand the lifters are only good to about 6500rpms

Regardless of reliability, what do you guys recommend? Should I stay hydraulic roller and reap the benefits of lower maintenance and more aggressive ramps? Or should I go solid flat tappet so i can rev higher (would I have to bush the lifter bores though?)


Any input you guys might have is appreciated!
thanks!
Matthew
 

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I posted this in the tech section, but i think it belongs here instead...

Building a stock stroke 360 mopar combo, hoping to push me into the high 11's. Obviously it being a shorter stroke motor its going to need to rev higher to make some power. My LA block is a factory roller block and all along ive wanted to keep it this way since the roller would mean easier maintenance (And possibly more aggressive ramp profiles?). However, Im starting to wonder if staying hydraulic roller is going to limit my goals since from what i understand the lifters are only good to about 6500rpms

Regardless of reliability, what do you guys recommend? Should I stay hydraulic roller and reap the benefits of lower maintenance and more aggressive ramps? Or should I go solid flat tappet so i can rev higher (would I have to bush the lifter bores though?)


Any input you guys might have is appreciated!
thanks!
Matthew

Why not a solid roller?
 

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i ran a 610 lift hyd. roller in a sbc , kept braking valve springs , push rods , rocker arms ...... not enough spring pressure to keep it in control, 155 pounds spring pressure wasnt enough , any more would collapse lifters , so went to solid and made 22 more hp at 6700 rpm , at 6100 rpm the hyd. was coming unglued ......
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
i ran a 610 lift hyd. roller in a sbc , kept braking valve springs , push rods , rocker arms ...... not enough spring pressure to keep it in control, 155 pounds spring pressure wasnt enough , any more would collapse lifters , so went to solid and made 22 more hp at 6700 rpm , at 6100 rpm the hyd. was coming unglued ......
what brand of cam and valvesprings? the solid you changed to was flat tappet or roller?
 

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I dont want the maintenance as its a street car
Maintenance, it all depends on the ramp on the cam. For your goal of high 11's the profile on the cam won't be all that aggresive. You won't have massive spring pressures so it won't be hard on parts at all. Its not a big deal to check valve lash once a month. I ran a hydro roller and now run a solid and haven't looked back.

should I go solid flat tappet so i can rev higher
Reving higher means you need enough gear to keep the engine in that rpm band. Your trapping rpm at the track should be about your shift point any lower and your "lugging" the motor.

To get higher rpm out of a hyd. roller you could also run a rev kit for the lifters.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
what is this rev kit you guys speak of and who sells them? ive never heard of them for mopars before
 

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I dont want the maintenance as its a street car, plus i dont have the money for the cam and lifters it requires

Understood, but the maintainence is the same as a flat tappet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Understood, but the maintainence is the same as a flat tappet.
I meant more in terms of (from what i have heard) that solid rollers are especially hard on valve springs and they need checking, especially if the car idles alot in traffic and such
 

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if all you are looking for is high 11's just stay with the hydraulic roller, the lift wont be that big and the ramps wont be that extreme, you will only need around 450-475 horse to run that number in an a-body mopar, call hughes and tell them what you are doing and have him send you a cam.I was running 11.4's with 340 x heads on a 360 with an old school 557 purple shaft from direct connection and 11.5-1 keith black hyperutectic junk in a 3350 pound dart, I think you are over thinking this combo a bit, your goal is easily acheived, I am assuming you have a magnum block correct? what is this motor out of?
 

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I meant more in terms of (from what i have heard) that solid rollers are especially hard on valve springs and they need checking, especially if the car idles alot in traffic and such

I've got a 254/260 solid roller in a 406 with .630 lift and the springs are on there 5th year and the pressures are fine. It's in a very highly driven street car. Idleing kills the rollers if you don't have HIPPO. The roller relies on oil splash so going with the HIPPO style pressure feeds the roller with oil directly. And if you don't run an aggresive ramp on the cam profile your springs will live.

The 406 is 9.5 comp., 3000 stall, 3.70 gear stock weight (w/ A/C) '80 Malibu and runs 11.50's with a best of 11.35. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Here's the rev. kit for a small block chevy. http://www.airflowresearch.com/index.php?cPath=75
man, something like that would be perfect! I just did a search and couldnt find anyone who makes it for a smallblock chrysler (gee, what a surprise)

As far as the solid roller goes, its just more money that i dont have. 400 dollar lifters and 400 dollars for a cam are not in the budget right now
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
if all you are looking for is high 11's just stay with the hydraulic roller, the lift wont be that big and the ramps wont be that extreme, you will only need around 450-475 horse to run that number in an a-body mopar, call hughes and tell them what you are doing and have him send you a cam.I was running 11.4's with 340 x heads on a 360 with an old school 557 purple shaft from direct connection and 11.5-1 keith black hyperutectic junk in a 3350 pound dart, I think you are over thinking this combo a bit, your goal is easily acheived, I am assuming you have a magnum block correct? what is this motor out of?
I dont know who to listen to anymore man! lol...some tell me ill be close to a mid 11, some say ill be as slow as a low to mid 12 because the car is a stick. Ive done my homework and science'd out my setup so that engine chassis and gearing all work together. Ive seen guys with less gear, less cam and smaller heads than i plan to run go high 11's in a-bodies of similar weight, so i cant see why my combo would be slower...i just kep getting the naysayers

My engine is actually an LA from a 91 ramcharger. After 87 they were factory roller blocks, 360's went magnum I believe in 93, 318's in 92. So my engine is a factory roller block LA
 

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Understood, but the maintainence is the same as a flat tappet.
Right or wrong, I didn't check my flat tappet all season long. 75 runs. Car has been getting faster, so whichever way its going, I like it! Ran its fastest time 74th run.
 

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Right or wrong, I didn't check my flat tappet all season long. 75 runs. Car has been getting faster, so whichever way its going, I like it! Ran its fastest time 74th run.
Solid roller here and I have 150-200 street miles and 9 passes (Got car done late September) Checked the lash before I put it up for winter and non had backed off. The only time I ever had issues was when I was setting the lash wrong, I use the comp cams valve lash guide and have had really good luck. This is with my '85.

The '89 Has had the same cam and springs for two seasons and I set the lash once and check it everytime I change the oil and they never need adjustment.
 

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If your on a budget then get a solid lifter cam/lifter kit. It's fine for what your wanting. It will rev high and drive well on the street, plus the spring pressures won't be sky high. Maintence won't be hard at all.
 

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solid for sure , roller is over engineering this build ,if your 10.0 cr or higher use this grind nice pop and will spin 6500 hard. cam and kit around 400$
Advertised Intake Duration304°Advertised Exhaust Duration310°Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift250°Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift254°Intake Lobe Lift0.363"Exhaust Lobe Lift0.372"Stock Intake Rocker Arm Ratio (RR)1.5Stock Exhaust Rocker Arm Ratio (RR)1.5Intake Valve Lift with Stock RR0.545"Exhaust Valve Lift with Stock RR0.558"Lobe Separation Angle108°Intake Lobe Centerline Angle104°Exhaust Lobe Centerline Angle112°Intake Valve Lash0.022Exhaust Valve Lash0.024
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I dont really see how using a hydraulic roller would be overengineering when my block is a factory roller block. The factory roller lifters are in great shape, and I actually already had a cam spec'd and delivered for the motor from Brian at IMM engines. The price was right, it will perform with my stock lifters (saving me money over going to a solid lifter setup and having to buy lifters and cam), and the specs on the cam should really wake the motor up

thanks for all the suggestions guys!
 
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