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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So my A/C fan quit running replaced cap 40uf / 5uf 440V, that did not fix it. Local HVAC shop says the
5KCP39GF AB283 S 1/8 HP 825 rpm 1.1amp 208-230V is on back order and they don't know when they can get one in.
They said they have a upgrade unit,
5KCP39GFS166S 1/5 hp, 825 Rpm, 208-230V Genteq 3S003
They said it would require a new capacitor. The old capacitor is a 40uf 5uf 440V. They said I would need a 40uf 7.5uf 370V/440V for the new motor. I won't say what they want to do the install.

I took apart and cleaned up the old motor and got a new capacitor and it is working for now but is noisy. So I am asking will there so called upgrade motor and capacitor fix the problem for good? Is it gonna raise my electric bill?
HVAC person was unsure since the new motor is rated at 1.4 amp and old one is 1.1 amp.

Any way just want to make sure he is not giving me a line so he can charge more for the job. Looked everything he told me up online and did not find correct answers or satisfactory ones. Hence asking here. TIA Jeb.
 

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The capacitor is for providing the power to start your compressor motor,
it has didly to do with your fan motor..

You can go to Wal mart or grainger and get a new fan motor for about $100, Just know your shaft diameter and bolt pattern.
(hint ; they are pretty much universal for residential units..)


I do however recommend a super capacitor, simple add on. It will stop the light dimming problem when your
unit kicks on. adds zero to the electric bill.


If you change your own car oil you can do this yourself.
 

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Not enough information to do anything with here. WTF is this a split system? What is a 40 mike cap doing in the indoor unit? Is the compressor water cooled, indoors? A 40 mike is as said above sounds like a START cap for the compressor, and a 1/5 hp indoor blower ain't squat. This is a toy. No idea from the information given WTF Or are you talking about the outdoor blower? 1/5 hp doesn't sound right for the condensing motor.
 

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The capacitor is for providing the power to start your compressor motor,
it has didly to do with your fan motor..

You can go to Wal mart or grainger and get a new fan motor for about $100, Just know your shaft diameter and bolt pattern.
(hint ; they are pretty much universal for residential units..)


I do however recommend a super capacitor, simple add on. It will stop the light dimming problem when your
unit kicks on. adds zero to the electric bill.


If you change your own car oil you can do this yourself.
..............and direction of rotation.....(some are reversible).......and motor RPM.............and you might have to buy a "universal bellyband mount".............
 

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Just call a fucking professional. I used to love guys like you. Go out there after you have been fucking with it for a week, installed wrong components and it still won't work and then show up and FIX it of course with proper parts

Grainger, by the way, is not where we used to buy motors. High priced, altho........."any port in a storm"
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Not enough information to do anything with here. WTF is this a split system? What is a 40 mike cap doing in the indoor unit? Is the compressor water cooled, indoors? A 40 mike is as said above sounds like a START cap for the compressor, and a 1/5 hp indoor blower ain't squat. This is a toy. No idea from the information given WTF Or are you talking about the outdoor blower? 1/5 hp doesn't sound right for the condensing motor.
This is the outside fan motor, not inside, and yes the 40uf is for starting the compressor and it works fine. The capacitor is a dual unit, one set of terminals is for the fan, one for the common, and one set for the compressor. That is where the 40uf 5uf comes from. any way looked on youtube and a few HVAC sites, seems this is a common upgrade the motor the local HVAC shop recommended.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Why the fuck are you concerned about a 1.4 amp fan motor raising your electric bill? Yes the new motor will fix your issues.
I was just wondering if it would is all, not that important I guess.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Not enough information to do anything with here. WTF is this a split system? What is a 40 mike cap doing in the indoor unit? Is the compressor water cooled, indoors? A 40 mike is as said above sounds like a START cap for the compressor, and a 1/5 hp indoor blower ain't squat. This is a toy. No idea from the information given WTF Or are you talking about the outdoor blower? 1/5 hp doesn't sound right for the condensing motor.
the current condenser motor is the first one listed and is 1/8HP the one they want to replace it with is 1/5HP both run at 825 rpm and spin a 3 blade updraft fan inside the condenser.
 

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No real difference between 1/5 and 1/8 horse, just as long as it bolts up, has the same rpm and voltage it’ll be fine. The generic motors usually have two brown wires on the motor and run a stand alone cap, won’t need the dual start cap for it. Might even have multiple taps for multiple speeds(black-blue-red wires)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
 

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the current condenser motor is the first one listed and is 1/8HP the one they want to replace it with is 1/5HP both run at 825 rpm and spin a 3 blade updraft fan inside the condenser.
Hey dude. it's pretty obvious that you're talking about a basic 3-5 ton residential unit.
Just hit the links I provided. And Wal mart will probably have what you need.

It's a basic universal vertical mount, drip proof fan motor. Single 1 speed directional.
 

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If your really in a bind and the house is hot as fuck, as it’s 95 here in jersey, just ghetto rig your garden hose sprayer onto a something and put it on a mist or shower setting and spray the condenser coil down while it’s running. It’ll just be water cooled instead of air cooled, and it’ll help take the edge off inside
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Hey dude. it's pretty obvious that you're talking about a basic 3-5 ton residential unit.
Just hit the links I provided. And Wal mart will probably have what you need.

It's a basic universal vertical mount, drip proof fan motor. Single 1 speed directional.
checked the links thanks, yes it is a 3ton unit, American standard brand. looked everything up and it is all fine the motor they have in stock will work it just mounts different using 4 studs and nuts as where the original used 4 bolts just have to drill holes bigger for larger mounting studs, they include the new capacitor needed. Thanks guys.
 
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you can actually just use the 40 mf on the dual cap to still run the compressor and add a single 7.5 cap for the motor. Just leave the 5mf tab disconnected. If you install a new dual , keep the old for a spare if the 40mf side shoots craps in a emergency.
 

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Well hell, some at least partially knowledgeable hvac people, some ball busters, and a guy trying to save a couple of bucks. Let's start:

1. Yes, the motor he had will work if you simply swap the capacitors like was stated. That's a dual capacitor you have (those are round) rated for the compressor (40 uf or 40 microfarads) and 5 uf for that original fan motor. Fyi, which rating needed is listed on the motor tag and for your residential application most will be 5 or 7.5 uf, some larger of course. So if new motor is 7.5 uf rated, then you replace your capacitor with a 40/7.5 uf model. DON'T MIX UP THE TERMINALS during the swap.

2. Good lord, the energy difference between 1/8 and 1/5 over a month wouldn't buy much. It's roughly $10 a year or less if you run less than average.

3. Typically many do-it yourselfers suck, and should call a pro, but if you have any mechanical ability you can do this.

And yes, what he first posted was more than enough info for a hvac guy to tell what he's talking about; not perfectly stated, but obvious. And if anyone has to ask what the hell is a split, he knows nothing about hvac.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

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I don't believe the difference in horsepower will actually be used. The existing fan load is still 1/8 HP, so the new motor won't draw the 1/5 HP, unless you use different fan blades. Get out your Ammeter when it runs. You may be suprised.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I don't believe the difference in horsepower will actually be used. The existing fan load is still 1/8 HP, so the new motor won't draw the 1/5 HP, unless you use different fan blades. Get out your Ammeter when it runs. You may be suprised.
yeah was told the HP is not as important as the amp draw, that is why it will work. As long as it draws 1.3 amps or more it will work fine or so they say.
 
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