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From my experiance with an 8.80 door car , a slick track will like more wheelstand, to help stick the tires due to the harder hit and easy wieght transfer. The better the bite, the less wheelstand you will need. The ideal circumstance would be a car that would dead hook the tires without any lost motion at all, using all of it to move forward. That never happens though, so you will have to find out what works for you and your ride.
I have had good luck with a very loose converter , about 6500 stall with shift points of only 7100. This helps to not shock the tires like a converter that is very close to the torque peak, which will actually produce a more violent hit, and be more inconsistant if the car spins.
For testing, a good place to start is high enough to get very good wight transfer, ( 18 inchs?) and work from there. From my experiances plus talking to others, it would seem one very important item often overlooked is how the front limiters stop suspension travel, and how the wheeliebars stop front end rise. Both need to be gradual in my mind, as i could feel the car lose bite at times when the limiters hit hard, or when the wheeliebars hit, causing the rear tires to unload and spin. Any sudden stop of motion will produce an equal reaction somewhere else, usually at the rear tires, causing spin. For this year, i am modifying my wheeliebars to have some sort of cushion, to soften the transition from upward motion to on the bars. Also, some form of progressive travel limiter, (like a rubber bumper-Thanks for the Tip, Monty!!!)
My dart is 50/50 wieght with a 106 WB, a torqueflite and 4.56 gears behiind about 900 hp, which is a real handfull to control at the launch, 60 fts average 1.26/1.29, depending on how it leaves the beams, and this is on a notoriously slippery track. I am shooting for some 1.24 or better 60 fts this season, and hopefully it won't tear the wheeliebars off on the hit!!
 
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