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Discussion Starter #1
I've been running a Rossler Terminator 3 TH400 with the standard 2.48 gearset for a few years now, and it has worked great...1.25 60's on a 275 Pro DR. I had my converter go south at the end of last year and put metal through the tranny, so I took it back to Carl to be gone through. My car was in the 8.40s range at 3300 lb race weight...maybe 1100 fwhp, not sure on torque...never been on a dyno. This year with my motor/turbo upgrades, I should be closer to 1300 fwhp and am wondering if I should be worried about the TH400 holding the power...especially since my 1-2 shift will be at 7500+ rpm versus 7k rpm of last year?? I have to be honest and say that Carl did try to talk me up to a Terminator 4 or going with a 2.10 gear set to reduce the stress on the drum on the 1-2 shift, but I just don't have $4k+ to throw at a tranny right now. I'm also wondering if I will be able to hook my 275 DRs with 2.48 1st gear and the extra power? Any real-world experiences with this transmission?
 

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There's nothing all that special about it. It's a TH400 with a billet input shaft and hub. It's definitely breakable.
I would recommend a 300M mainshaft at that power level.
the 2.48 ratio loads the mainshaft more than a 2.10.
And that power level the 2.10 starts to make sense on most combos.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
There's nothing all that special about it. It's a TH400 with a billet input shaft and hub. It's definitely breakable.
I would recommend a 300M mainshaft at that power level.
the 2.48 ratio loads the mainshaft more than a 2.10.
And that power level the 2.10 starts to make sense on most combos.
Thanks for your insight. I'll see what my budget can handle as far as upgrades to my current TH400 platform...until then, I'll keep the power dialed back into the capability range of the tranny and save my lunch money.
 

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Point is, Carl made a recommendation based on the fact that if/when it breaks, owner might just mf the builder. Some guys aren't all that honest when it comes to being broke dick. My position is, if you can't pay the freight stay home. Just the fact's as I see it, based on many years in the business.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Point is, Carl made a recommendation based on the fact that if/when it breaks, owner might just mf the builder. Some guys aren't all that honest when it comes to being broke dick. My position is, if you can't pay the freight stay home. Just the fact's as I see it, based on many years in the business.
I understand what you are saying, but all I'm looking for is some "real-world" cars on here that have used the transmission I have and what power levels/ETs & MPH they have run...! I should have worded my question differently for sure, but why do some members have to get on here and make you look like an ass because they have "many years in the business", or have been "building 3000 hp cars since the Stone Age"! I've been doing this for a long time as well. I always have been and always will be an honest guy. I have worked with Carl for a while now on my transmission needs and I would never flame him or anyone else for my mistakes. And as far as "staying home because I can't pay the freight", well, I think that is bullshit! I'm just trying to build the fastest hobby street car that I can with the money I have and doing most of the work myself...making mistakes along the way, just like everyone else has I'm sure...AND learning from them too. Thanks for your input. FWIW, Carl did say the Terminator 3 will hold 1300 fwhp, but his standard 1500 fwhp rating is on the ragged edge with a twin turbo car because of the associated torque production.
 

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Lots have run low 7's at under 2800lbs with less. They knew the consequences if there was a failure. I think it was more luck than anything but there was no problems.


Hutch
 

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I understand what you are saying, but all I'm looking for is some "real-world" cars on here that have used the transmission I have and what power levels/ETs & MPH they have run...! I should have worded my question differently for sure, but why do some members have to get on here and make you look like an ass because they have "many years in the business", or have been "building 3000 hp cars since the Stone Age"! I've been doing this for a long time as well. I always have been and always will be an honest guy. I have worked with Carl for a while now on my transmission needs and I would never flame him or anyone else for my mistakes. And as far as "staying home because I can't pay the freight", well, I think that is bullshit! I'm just trying to build the fastest hobby street car that I can with the money I have and doing most of the work myself...making mistakes along the way, just like everyone else has I'm sure...AND learning from them too. Thanks for your input. FWIW, Carl did say the Terminator 3 will hold 1300 fwhp, but his standard 1500 fwhp rating is on the ragged edge with a twin turbo car because of the associated torque production.
You are running a DR. You are on borrowed time. You should have a 210 HD. Or an XHD. Tire shake is a mother fucker.

ATD and Carl are the best in the business. HP ratings are a joke, tire shake will always trump HP ratings. HP ratings have been obtained with a slick, not a DR, as far as durability. The DR changes all of that.

It's understandable you have a budget. A 2:10 in a stock case is a very smart option. It will be a lot cheaper to do it now.


You will go faster with a 2:10. Period.
 

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I have about 1700HP on that trans with ET Streets. Haven't driven it much. Currently have a tranny leak somewhere. Probably just dipstick tube or something. Getting bored of the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'll keep the power down until I can buy a better transmission...problem solved! Thanks for the replies.
 

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I have about 1700HP on that trans with ET Streets. Haven't driven it much. Currently have a tranny leak somewhere. Probably just dipstick tube or something. Getting bored of the car.
You might be disheartened due to the fact the HP is useless on the public roads. Dual purpose cars, a waste of time and money due to the compromises needed for street use. That is if one is really serious about going fast.
 

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You might be disheartened due to the fact the HP is useless on the public roads. Dual purpose cars, a waste of time and money due to the compromises needed for street use. That is if one is really serious about going fast.
Disheartened because I can't stand working on cars anymore and just want to get in and drive.
 

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I'll keep the power down until I can buy a better transmission...problem solved! Thanks for the replies.
Coan do a 2.05/1.34 gearset for $1350 and a 300M intermediate shaft for $275. So you will be all in for $1625 if you know how to put them in yourself and check endplay/clearances. A whole new transmission seems overkill if you can upgrade your current one.
 

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Carl is being honest with the guy it sounds.
I agree with Hipster. Having been doing this for awhile it's all true.

OCCASIONALLY you get the "real" guy who's honest with himself and won't trash talk you when their stuff breaks that you told them was ragged edge. However the bigger percentage will blame you when they screw up the torque converter install or don't put enough fluid in it.
I've learned we have to try to educate the customer (if they'll listen) because many just don't understand the importance of fluid level or because they've installed a few transmissions they don't understand that the converter install is different with custom built parts and say the lockup o-ring on a 4L80E causing it to feel different.

You can't blanket a statement that a 2.10 WILL go faster without knowing a lot about a combo, but usually at 1300-1500 HP it is the sweet spot.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Coan do a 2.05/1.34 gearset for $1350 and a 300M intermediate shaft for $275. So you will be all in for $1625 if you know how to put them in yourself and check endplay/clearances. A whole new transmission seems overkill if you can upgrade your current one.
 
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