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Discussion Starter #1
How much on a stock sbc block? I have a 383,4 bolt main stock block makes 575 hp with flat-tappet cam and wanted to switch to a roller cam and lifters.
The engine made 592 hp with Dart Iron Eagle 215 Platinums and lost hp switching to Brodix -10s so i know a cam would help it.
My engine builder says ill pull the mains out and wants me to get a Dart block.I know a stock block should handle 600hp,RIGHT?
 

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My stock #509 block even with 4 bolt splayed mains is only good to 600hp.
I am starting over with a Dart, good up to 2000hp...should never need a block again.
 

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If we machine a 350 OEM block for splayed caps and it sonic tests fine we rate them at 600 horse and that being said if you are using stock caps at the power level your flirting with disaster.

I had a stock block come in the shop yesterday with a broken center cap the customer said and this was a circle track 2 barrel engine that might make 375 horse. This is not the first broken cap I have seen on a GM block over the years of machining and building engines.

At the power level your going to be at I might think about the Dart SHP block. We have sold over 120 of those blocks with zero problems so far. The webbing in these blocks are alot stronger then the OEM blocks.

Your block might handle 600 horse but the big question is for how long???

Good luck which ever way you go
 

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010 4 BOLT stock block with arp studs
in a drag application, ran low 9s, which at my weight was about 700 hp or so
ran this way for 3 seasons,pulled it out and sold it ,and mains and rods look perfect along with no fretting at caps or deck
this engine ran stock caps with stock repalcemant fel pro blue stripe head gasket with arp head bolts
worked great and was dead reliable
i dont care what block ,gasket,fastener etc,you run ,if your tune up is off ,it will never last,and if its spot on it will last alot longer than most would have you believe
this also is dependant on two things imo,
1st off that you start with a known good piece that is MACHINED AND ASSEMBLED CORRECTLY
2nd-that a drag app is far more forgiving than a constant hi rpm circle track application
good luck
let the flaming begin lol
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
This was built from a brand new block in 2005 and ran 2 years in a dirt modified car,then i got it and ran last 4 years in 1/8th mile drag car.My engine builders motors won 8 different dirt track championships in 08,from modifieds,late models to non winged sprints,so im not worried about the machining just dont want to build a grenade LOL
I had thought a SHP block buy would have to buy the block and new pistons to fit it and basically start all over.
 

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have a stock OEM 4 bolt main block in my brothers chevy II that makes 600+ hp 1st build yielded 540 runs..freashend it up and now has 231 runs no problems! the attention to detail is everything! This motor was assembled with ARP hardware throughout! 14.1-1 7600rpm at the finish line,leaves the starting line at 6000. 383 cid,all 4340 eagle rotating assem. start with a good center core block..real important! Now if u can afford it I would start with a dart spm though!
 

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I ran a 383ci 4 bolt main making 520'ish (made 474 at the tires) and sprayed it with a 150 plate. Did that for 1 year, then sold it and went to a Dart block larger ci engine. My thought was either sell it while I could, or pick the crank up out of the dirt one of those days. Too many horror stories to chance it IMO.
 

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383 stock block with billet caps straight not splayed! 7800 rpms through the traps 15.5 to 1 compression. been 8.80's in 2200 lb car 9.70's in 3100lbs with a 3 speed! Good tune and good balancing and GOOD parts wioll make them last for a long time this motor is 8 years old and only bored .030 from stock.
 

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I ran a 383ci 4 bolt main making 520'ish (made 474 at the tires) and sprayed it with a 150 plate. Did that for 1 year, then sold it and went to a Dart block larger ci engine. My thought was either sell it while I could, or pick the crank up out of the dirt one of those days. Too many horror stories to chance it IMO.
X2 I wish I could base all my engine building on just one engine that lasted for years LOL

Too many horror stories to chance it IMO
Thats why we don't take risks like that I have seen guys chance stuff like that and it ends up costing alot of money to build it twice.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ill probably put a larger flat-tappet in it instead of the roller and keep it in 1 piece,my luck is usually the opposite of the good stories i hear about LOL
 

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i ran my 350 4 bolt block (stock caps) with nitrous made about 700hp on the spray. after a season you could see evidence of the caps moving around. ended up selling that combo before i had nothing to sell lol
 

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made around 600 with stock 2 blt main 350 block then sprayed 150 on top of that..max i know of for a fully preped 350 on juice is 850-900..boost 1k

theres been plenty of threads..if you dig far enought in or around 06 there was a good one..guy with a sbc pro mod ran high 6s with a 350 block.


right now im doing a lt1 deal stock 2blt block,crank,pistons and rods with bolts..looking to be around lil over 800 with spray.
 

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I know the 2482 nodular cap blocks are suppose to be more durable. Are they really?
 

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I know the 2482 nodular cap blocks are suppose to be more durable. Are they really?
Those are nodular iron caps and GM did use them on the performance and some truck blocks enen on the Bowtie blocks.

Over the years we have had customers call for a new Dart block because there 350 or 400 block did not work out very well.
 

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I have a stock four bolt block 383 AFR 227 heads Callias crank was built by Pecice Race Engines and Dynoed 725 na and 1013 nos I ran this motor two seasons ......... must be luck but was told the blow web out at around 1000 hp ..........That flywheel hp
725H.P. N/A????
 
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