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Rechecking your back lash clearance before the start on the season helps. I set mine .006"-,008" initially and tighten them back to .006" when they get to .010". My Richmond 456 big pinion pro gears were new in 2012. Motive Gear bought out Richmond later and are made Italy now.. I personally don't think the Pro Gears are the same material now. US/Strange gears are still made in the USA.
 

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Why not run a street gear ?

They are hardened for long life....and brittle....you'll get some launches off them but it won't take long for them to crack and break...I learned that lesson the hard way years ago.....
 

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Ive run street gears in my Dana. actually bent the teeth on the first set and closed up all the back lash. That was a Motive gear, 425 passes. Then tried a Chinese knockoff as I wanted a 4.30 to fit a 3 series spool. 125 passes broke a pinion tooth off. Now running a US gear pro gear. Foot brake 3350-3525lbs depending on ballast. 1.25-1.30 60ft 9.00-9.25 (index).
Doug
 

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Hmmmm .

I guess your just stuck if you street drive .

I have broke a pinion gear once on my Dana60 . But it was after many passes and 10s of thousands of miles . Probably over 40,000 miles before it broke at the track .

And I hit it hard too . 1.25 sixty and 4600lbs .

I also dont think they make a 3.54 pro gear
 

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In our screw blown Promod, as low as 2 and as many as 8 with a lockup. On a 800hp car i would think alot. 2000 as some of the others have stated
 

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There is a 1:1 correlation between the number of licks it takes to get to the center of a Tootsie Pop and the amount of laps you can get out of a set of Pro Gears. My avatar broke its first set at less than 500 passes. That little shake at the end of a burnout adds up...
 

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I'm interested in the comments above, recommending synthetic lube for pro gears. I had always heard that synthetic lube didn't cushion the gears in a drag racing application as well as quality petroleum based gear lube. I'm going to check a little further for my own curiosity (and gears).
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Thanks to all that replied.
I'm going to check the center section again this year. If no unusual wear or excessive back lash is found, I'll run them to about 800 passes. These gears have always been run with synthetic lube so that helps.
 

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I have no idea what type of gear is in my Dana 60 (5.13). I do know its been a bracket beater drag car for just about 50 years and as far I as know the gears have never been changed ( I was friends with the previous owner who had it for 20+ years. I have owned it for the last 16 years) . There is easy 20,000 1/4 mile 10.teens - 10.70's in a 3200+lb car ( 3/4 foot-brake 1/4 trans-brake ) passes on it with a posi unit . When I take the cover off over winter to inspect for chips all looks good. Few years ago I had a shop take it apart to inspect and install new bearings , clutches and axles and what ever else is in there just to make it "fresh". Nothing but regular off the shelf gear lube and posi additive has ever been used in it.
 

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I'm interested in the comments above, recommending synthetic lube for pro gears. I had always heard that synthetic lube didn't cushion the gears in a drag racing application as well as quality petroleum based gear lube. I'm going to check a little further for my own curiosity (and gears).
Synthetic gear oil or any oil for that matter has a higher temp threshold and a higher load capacity over petroleum because of the molecular make up of it, if you looked at the molecules under a microscope, you see synthetic is all the same, were as petroleum is totally all different sizes.

100% Syn is better oil.
 

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Redline Heavy Weight Shock Proof seems to work well for drag only Por Gear with a spool. Nasty to clean when you pull it apart. The stuff clings to everything which is the point.
 

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Rechecking your back lash clearance before the start on the season helps. I set mine .006"-,008" initially and tighten them back to .006" when they get to .010". My Richmond 456 big pinion pro gears were new in 2012. Motive Gear bought out Richmond later and are made Italy now.. I personally don't think the Pro Gears are the same material now. US/Strange gears are still made in the USA.
Yes, I notice that the new Italian Richmond gear setup pattern doesn't come out as nice as the old USA Richmonds, at least for 12 Bolts & 9" gears.
US Gear/Strange for me.
 

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The New Italian Pro Series ring and pinions come with excess materiel removed from the out side back of the ring gear. The original Richmond Pro Gears did not have this, but it was available at extra cost. Those were done after the normal machining and are bright surface, where the new Italian ones are done at the same time and the finish id dull in that area.

I still doubt the Pro Gear which was made from 9310 material, is now. Probably the more available in Europe 8620 material used in street gears. If that is true, I don't see how they can last very long in pure drag racing with big tires and big horsepower
 

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The only way to tell is check the gears. Mine never broke but I started to hear noise coasting in the lanes. Went home and pulled the cover and found about 75% of the ring gear teeth had cracks at the ends where the tooth meets the ring. If they LOOK fine, I would keep using them.
 

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I'm interested in the comments above, recommending synthetic lube for pro gears. I had always heard that synthetic lube didn't cushion the gears in a drag racing application as well as quality petroleum based gear lube. I'm going to check a little further for my own curiosity (and gears).
Synthetic gear lube is the only way to go, with street gears or Pro Gears. What you have "heard" is incorrect. Red Line product is my recommendation.
 
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