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Discussion Starter #1
just wondering how you all notch your tubing?

i'm on my second joint jigger style notcher and am thinking about getting one of the mill style.like godzilla or the one from mitler.

do the end mills last very long? cause they are pricey
does it speed up production? for the money that is
witch one is better? pro tools or the mitler one?

little art race cars
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Once you get a mill type...... you'll throw rocks at anything you had before. You can go back and take a little more out of 1 side or the other, change the angle completely, turn the existing notch slightly on tube, etc.

Unless you build a lot of cars, the end mill might outlive you.

Last tool I changed has gone 13 cars so far.
 

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A fab guy I know who works for a chassis shop in Nevada that does all porsche road cars uses the mitler bro's and says he loves it.

From what I hear the end mills last 100 times longer, give or take obviously.

I think it would speed up production and the notches come out so much better from what I have seen/heard.

If I could afford one I would get one cause I have a problem with keeping the RPM's down and have already broken 3 notchers in under a months time.
 

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i have several differents styles of notching tubing... one way is we use the bridgeport. much like you would a mittler deal. use the bridgeport with a hole saw for tubes that we know the start dimension ahead of time like a side bar on our dragster roll cages and lastly... we have a few different grinders. one is large with 2 wheels and a 2 hp motor. one wheel is 1.500" wide, the other is 1" wide. we dress a radius on each, and go to town. you have to swing the tube side to side to get various tube notch sizes so it takes a lil getting used to and is quite messy. but i promise you that after you get the hang of it, this is much quicker than using a mill or mittler bros setup. and cheaper cause you can build it yourself. i will tell you though we are planning on purchasing a mittler deal over the winter only because it idiot proofs things when you have "other" people working for you.
 

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i have several differents styles of notching tubing... one way is we use the bridgeport. much like you would a mittler deal. use the bridgeport with a hole saw for tubes that we know the start dimension ahead of time like a side bar on our dragster roll cages and lastly... we have a few different grinders. one is large with 2 wheels and a 2 hp motor. one wheel is 1.500" wide, the other is 1" wide. we dress a radius on each, and go to town. you have to swing the tube side to side to get various tube notch sizes so it takes a lil getting used to and is quite messy. but i promise you that after you get the hang of it, this is much quicker than using a mill or mittler bros setup. and cheaper cause you can build it yourself. i will tell you though we are planning on purchasing a mittler deal over the winter only because it idiot proofs things when you have "other" people working for you.
Got any pictures?

I know Team Z uses this one (the Mittler Bros. piece) and swears by it.



I have gotten as tight of notches as that with my $90 mid american notcher. However that is the easiest notch to make. I would like to see how clean and tight they are on a double curve angled joint however, as that's usually what eat's up most of my time notching.
 

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I will have me a mittler bros. soon but for now I have a pro tools part # hsn-501-i hole saw notcher have used it for 3 years now still works fine I run it with an air drill and a little regulator.
 

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I have gotten as tight of notches as that with my $90 mid american notcher. However that is the easiest notch to make. I would like to see how clean and tight they are on a double curve angled joint however, as that's usually what eat's up most of my time notching.
I just took the photos as they worked on my car, I'm not a chassis guy and don't even know what a 'double-curve-angle-joint is! :p
 

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I'm not sure what people would classify the joint of what I was asking but it would be the connection spot where say a door bar would curve in to meet the hoop, which is also curved to follow the b-pillar, at the the angle difference of the hoop angle and door bar angle.

However I have seen some of Team Z's work and it is usually very well built. Nice car.
 

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I don't have any photos like that yet, we just put the main hoop and back bars in it yesterday. Should have some updated photos over the weekend. We're supposed to knock out a decent amount of the cage on Saturday as far as I know.

Thanks for the compliment!

Good luck with making your decision.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
thanks for the posts.has anyone got a pro tools "godzilla". it seems to be a little cheaper.
just ordered a new catalog from mittler though.the catalog i was looking at was from 96.sure wish the prices were the same as this catalog i'm lookin at.

little art race cars
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I had a hole saw notcher and if paid for itself but I hated using it. Now I notch tubing with the roughing end mills in my Bridgeport. Eventually I will buy a Mittler Bros machine notcher so I can keep my mill free for machining. I still clean up the notch slightly with sanding drums and use them when the notch lands on a radius to fine tune it.
 

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I had a hole saw notcher and if paid for itself but I hated using it.

heheh... and every notch seems like you are tempting fate. They should come with a box of bandaids. I hate those damn things, but I still use it. It just seems really bad when you are doing it.
 

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Ive used it all. Chop saw, holesaw notchers, Mittler Bros, etc. In my opinion, the MB unit is a nice piece, but way overpriced, and if your doing thin wall tubing, the cutter better be VERY sharp, otherwise, it likes to grab the top piece of the tubing you are notching, and pull it "down" and into the tube. Basically, it catches the tube, and pulls it in the direction the cutter is spinning. VERY AGGRIVATING!
The hole saw notchers are nice, but usually limit you to 60* notches. JMR makes a REALLY nice piece, that allows up to like 210* of swing room. I couldnt afford the JMR (I was still in high school), so I bought the bearing block, shaft, and v-block clamp from Pro Tools, and made my own. Its very simple to do. 2 scrap piece sof 2"x.5" flat bar, with a pivot bolt tieing the two together, and then mount the bearing block and clamp. Ive done many cars with it, and it works good.
Yeah I know holesaws add up, but everything has its downfalls.
Heres some pictures:







 

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How well to the dewalt hole saws hold up? I have been using the lenox hole saw bits over the ridgid(I destroyed these like they were paper towels) and seem to be holding up well. With hole saws just add an extra $25 to the cost of whatever you're using it for and you'll have a good stock pretty soon.
 

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I use a Chop Saw.... mostly

I have a Mill and do some joints that way but 90% I do with a Chop saw... Can out run a Mill all day long
I don't know how you notch with a chop saw. When I was at your shop you showed me and I thought hell that looks easy. Damn I tryed many times all I did was waste time and tubing. I will say you have an eye for it.
 
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