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Discussion Starter #1
Guys so I posted here before and I got my car hooking good with lots of help from this forum., but I would like to be able to get the car to stick on a radial. All summer I fought carb and suspension issues some where carb related. I finally got the car to run good but im currently using a hoosier Bias ply 28x10x15 .

I was running a nitto drag radial prior but those tires are totally done and I never hooked on them with this combo . Looking to go to a full radial slick considering the m/t bracket radial or a hoosier radial slick. but will the transition be clean cut from biting well on a bias ply ?

currently im running afco 80/20's in the front with 1 inch taller ball joints with about 6 inches of extension with 66 A body inline 6 springs. Out back im running SSM lower bars , adjustable uppers , stock 442 rear springs , HR parts n stuff rear sway bar , Qa1 single adjustables set to the softest setting.

The cars best pass has been an 11.85 @ 110 MPH with a 1.59 60 ft.

Its a 1972 cutlass with a 350 olds .030 over with a th350 3500 stall and 3.90 gears and the car weighs in at about 3400 lbs.

Any issues on how the car is launching that can be seen in the video ? Any suggestions ?

 

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Looks good
Might need to tighten rear up a bit.
Running good.
Hopefully track preps good.
I have my front like yours but limit it to just under 4”. Drilled a hole in upper arm and put a bolt and welded a washer flat to hit upper frame bushing.
Good luck n keep us posted.
 

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put on a pbr set at 19 lbs slow the ft extension and stiffin the rear IF it don't hook..
 

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You mention singles in the rear. I would switch to a da rear shock. Loose on extension to let it separate, and tight on compression to keep the tire planted. You may want to try a da shock up front as well (but could try with what you have) as imo, your going to want to keep the front tires on the ground, so slow the extension a bunch, and tighten the compression, to keep the nose up while headed down track. That is how mine is set up. Mine is not a stock 4 link like yours, but it is a 4 link, so the theories are the same. As mentioned above, track prep will be critical to making a radial work. FYI the pic in my avatar is the car on slicks........set up to pull the front wheels...lol

Mine at rest


60' down track......does not pull the wheels

 

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At that speed you shouldnt need to do anything besides bolt them on. Depending on track prep and what the car does will lead you to future changes. You should be fine
 

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I agree at your power level u may be fine with current shocks, but DA are nice to have!!
This was on a 38 degree day, no heat in the track 1.31 60 ft foot braking , [email protected] Afco DA in back revalved and Menscer’s in front! 275/60 radial pro
https://youtu.be/GNL3b8rltZ0
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Im just a tad nervous to pull the plug for the fact I could not hook on the Nitto's. I know they are worlds apart from the pro bracket radials or the hoosier drag radials . Hopefully I can find a set slightly used to try. fastest MPH on the nittos vs. the Bias ply's is 111 mph. but I never made a clean pass on the nittos . Knowing what I know now. I should have bought the D.A. shocks for the rear.
 

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Im just a tad nervous to pull the plug for the fact I could not hook on the Nitto's. I know they are worlds apart from the pro bracket radials or the hoosier drag radials . Hopefully I can find a set slightly used to try. fastest MPH on the nittos vs. the Bias ply's is 111 mph. but I never made a clean pass on the nittos . Knowing what I know now. I should have bought the D.A. shocks for the rear.
I've got a set of Et streets with some life left in them for cheap, 275/60. The nitto's are nothing like the Mt's, Hoosier i haven't used, But A friend tried the nitto's and same result up in smoke!
 

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with your current suspension, gearing and power, you are not going to hook on a radial slick consistently.
 

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Can I ask why you want to switch to a radial? At your et level, any et improvements will be minimal. The car is more stable on a radial, for sure, but I think you will be able to stick more consistently on a slick.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I just want to try it to be honest. If I can hook on a radial and drive em on the street and the track without swapping tires then that's a plus. Keep in mind I do tool my car around town. Its both to see if there will be any gains but the avoid the nuisance of swapping wheels lol.
 

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I just want to try it to be honest. If I can hook on a radial and drive em on the street and the track without swapping tires then that's a plus. Keep in mind I do tool my car around town. Its both to see if there will be any gains but the avoid the nuisance of swapping wheels lol.
For me, I would never race a tire I drive on the street. You never know what damage/slices/gouges may occur running over trash. Good radials are soft. They have no resistance to damage. Take it down the track at 100+ mph with damage to the tire, would possibly not end up well for you, the car, or your competitor. I myself always run a dedicated set of wheels and tires at the track. imo of course.
 

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I just want to try it to be honest. If I can hook on a radial and drive em on the street and the track without swapping tires then that's a plus. Keep in mind I do tool my car around town. Its both to see if there will be any gains but the avoid the nuisance of swapping wheels lol.
Bud the car is going to work fine on the radials. Not to be disrespectful, but at your power level its not even a debate. The Nitto is like a trailer tire compared to the MTs. You might have to tweak the shocks some but no need to buy anything. Back in 2010 we were going 10.80s on the old MT ET street radial driving it to and from the track with non adjustable bilstein shocks.

Get yourself a set of ET Radial Rs and go have fun with the car. It will 100% be quicker and faster on the radial, its no debate. Like Mufflerguy said, when you get to the track I would put the car up on a jack and give the tires a good inspection to make sure they haven't picked anything up from the road.
 

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Copper
get yourself a set of mt or hoosier drag radials and cruise on the street and race at the track. Thats what they are made for. You will be fine. Just get a new set. The people that say it wont work dont know what they are talking about.
 
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