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Hey guys
im alittle confused with the timing on my ford and the hp efi, i set the initial timing wiht a light at 14 degrees and my base timing graph on the holley says 25 initial. what should i do??
 

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EFI/N2O JUNKIE
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Crank trigger or distributor? You should just be able to loosen the distributor and turn it so the balancer matches what the ECM is showing. You can also change the Ignition Reference Angle, but that is the last resort.

PS: You either need the engine warm to set/check timing, or make sure that you aren't adding/subtracting timing due to water temp (check in the Spark Table and look under the Modifers).
 

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Synchronizing the ignition timing (timing light) with the EFI (laptop).
Note: Use the software's "Enable Static Timing Set" (in the "Sync With ECU" drop down menu - Toolbar). Otherwise, you'll see the Idle Spark control timing fluctuate rapidly when using your timing light. I like to enter a static timing value of 30°.

1)
The distributor is turned to synchronize the initial (idle) timing, then lock it down. Next, you need to ensure the ignition timing is synchronized across the entire RPM range.

2)
Momentarily rev the engine and watch the timing advance with your timing light. It shouldn't move.

3) If timing advances or retards, adjust the "Inductive Delay" until the timing remains stationary.
Once the ignition timing is fully synchronized, the Timing Table can be tuned for each application.

FYI: Just like a carbureted application, if your distributor ends up facing the "wrong" direction (aesthetics), you can remove the distributor assembly from the engine and reinstall it in the position you like without turning the inner shaft. You can remove the distributor cap and tape the rotor to the distributor body for maintaining alignment.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok ill try that so for my ford i should set the initial to 14 degrees the set the static to 30 and as long as the timing stays the same on the balance when revd its good?
 

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So for my Ford, I should set the initial to 14 degrees...
I don't know anything about your engine, so I can't suggest the amount of initial (idle) timing. If you want the idle timing anything different than the Base Timing Table, change it (laptop). Then synchronize the timing using the aforementioned procedure. Believe the timing light above all else...it's always the real timing (if there's a discrepancy).

Summary - the initial (idle) timing is synchronized by turning the distributor & locking it down; the timing at higher RPM is synchronized by adjusting the Inductive Delay in the EFI software. The first synchronization is physical, and the second synchronization is electronic. When finished, the timing as viewed on the laptop, should match what you see with the timing light, at all RPMs.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for all the help its really informative, i have a 302 aluminum heads mild cam rpm 2 intake and about 10.5 compression. I set the initial timing to 14 and the graph says 25 initial at 900 rpms so i should set the static timing to say 14 and thee car almost died
 

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I set the initial timing to 14 and the graph says 25 initial at 900 RPMs, so I should set the static timing to say 14 and thee car almost died.
For now, forget using 14° of initial timing.
Use 25°, and enter 25° for the Static Timing Set.
Turn the distributor until the engine runs and you see 25° with your timing light at idle.
Then lock down the distributor hold-down, and move on to the next synchronization (Inductive Delay).
 

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Danny,

We followed the procedure but for example, static timing set to 30, if we rev up the engine, it takes 1-2 seconds to have 30 at crank. It starts with 26 then after 1-2 seconds, it does reach the 30.

What could cause this? The reaction time is bad it seems.
 

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We followed the procedure but for example, static timing set to 30, if we rev up the engine, it takes 1-2 seconds to have 30 at crank. It starts with 26 then after 1-2 seconds, it does reach the 30.
I don't understand. If you enable the Static Timing Set at 30°, then that's what it should be. With the Static Timing Set at 30°, if it starts (idles) at 26°, then the first synchronization step still isn't right.
 

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The first synch has been correctly done, at ide, without idle spark, what we see on the crank is the same on the ECU.

My question is:

Let's say we rev the engine up to 2000rpm, immediataly, the ECU displays 30 but it takes 1-2 seconds to really see the 30 at the crank as if there was a delay with the timing/distributor. It is not easy to explain when english is not the mother language...
 
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