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The ony thing i jsr rrealized i didnt check was the sensor gap from the old motor to this one. Not sure that would make a difference but i'll double check it
The log shows a significant drop in RPM over a one frame time span on the log. That indicates to me you likely have an issue related to the crank sensor signal. Likely it misses a magnet at high rpm and with a CNP setup once it skips a magnet you effectively have your firing order off one cylinder which makes for a non running engine.

Make sure your air gap is correct, the sensor is aligned with the wheel, eyeball the wheel for run-out while cranking, make sure the sensor bracket is tight and not moving, etc.
 

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I tested the gap deal. At about 035 it will not fire constantly. If your brackets wiggle at all under vibration you will likely be under 035. I tried it out to 100 and occasionally saw misfire.

Since the threads are 16 per inch I have started just turning the sensor in by hand till it touches then back up exactly one turn. No feeler gauge needed and you end up at 063 which is the sweet spot.
 

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Some people have had problems with the cam sync not being in the correct location compared to the crank sensor. Maybe try to advance/retard the cam sync 10* if you can. Easy to do on my engine, not sure about yours.
 

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A Hall Effect type of sensor does not need to be gapped close. As Doug said, put it around .060.

The reason the Magnetic type of sensor (stock MSD style) have to be set somewhat close is that when you are cranking the engine, the signal being generated by the sensor is very low in amplitude, and some ignition systems may not get triggered by the low signal. The close the sensor is to the magnet the larger the amplitude the sensor will generate. Well, that backfires at high rpm! The amplitude coming out of the sensor can be so high that it over-drives (distortion) the input of the ignition system and causes misfiring............ So a happy balance needs to be found with that type of sensor. That is the beauty of the Hall Effect type of sensor. It always generates a nice clean square wave that does not vary in amplitude from rpm, it is always the same. But, don't get it too close that it can get hit from flexing brackets or trigger wheel runout!
 

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I reset it to 60 but haven't gotten back out to the track. Pretty sure the cam sync is ok. I'll report back once I get back out.
cam sync wont make it miss....
it strictly tells it which stroke it is on... Compression, or Exhaust/Intake

if cam sync is wrong, it wont fire on the right stroke
thats all that cam sync changes

it either works or it doesnt
 

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what about when it the cam sync signal falls right on top of a crank signal??? I have had that happen and will cause all kind of issues.
 

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what about when it the cam sync signal falls right on top of a crank signal??? I have had that happen and will cause all kind of issues.
makes no difference....
its 2 separate signals..
does your IAT mess up because your CTS gets to a certain temperature???
do nitrous solenoids mess up on fords because the PWM IAC signal lines up with the nitrous solenoid pulses?

the cam sync is strictly there to tell it which stroke it is on....nothing else
it is its own independent signal

now...if you completely lose the cam sync signal...it can cause issues....
a bad signal that is part of a 2 part signal will cause issues....
but if the signal is good, it cant cause an issue from "falling right on top of another signal"
 

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what about when it the cam sync signal falls right on top of a crank signal??? I have had that happen and will cause all kind of issues.
You don't want that to happen on a 4x/1x deal. If that happens the cam sync can move back and forth across the crank edge, which will cause issues/errors.

One a missing tooth (36-1/60-2) the cam has to be before the missing teeth.
 

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according to his first log, he gets a bunch of errors on the cam when it just cuts off, i dont see anything else. i havent looked at his other logs

 

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Discussion Starter #37
OK, so I reset the gap to .060 and all of a sudden it wouldn't start at all. Put gap back where it was and still wouldn't start. Put new one on at .060 and it fired right up. Took it out this week and ran at 8600 shift and it picked up 3/10 and 9 mph. Although on the 2nd pass the motor died at 8000 (just like before) at 5.0 into the run. 3rd pass cranked it up did burnout, it died and wont start back up (Batteries were down to 11.0 volts and efi just kept resetting itself when I hit the starter. My alternator belt got chewed up first pass, but not sure if that's related or not) Went back and charged the batts and it still wouldn't start. Haven't had a chance to pull it out of trailer to check things out. I'm thinking maybe the connector itself isn't making good contact or has an intermittent short and it may or may not have been the HE sensor itself.
 
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