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Discussion Starter #1
Every sense I got my car back I've been having problems with the clutch pedal sticking to the floor at high rpms.. It has a new slave and Monster's baddest clutch.. I believe it's rated to 950/950 and my car made 643/550.. I've flushed the fluid countless times and I'm using Motul 660 brake fluid.. I'm not sure if they even checked spacing but I do know that they put the supplied spacer behind the slave.. At first I thought it was a problem with the fluid boiling, but now I think it's just a pressure plate problem.. Any thoughts?? I'm bout ready to just throw this clutch in the trash and replace all the hydraulics for peace of mind..
 

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Discussion Starter #3
diaphram clutches can do this if the release bearing is stroked too far.
is this a drag car or a street car?
It's a street car.. I really wouldn't doubt that if I pulled it and checked the spacing that the spacer wouldn't be needed..
 

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pretty sure monster clutches are not supposed to have a shim, i had two of them in my camaro before converting to an auto. I could never get that clutch to shift at high rpm w/o letting off the throttle. Neither time i got the clutch was a shim provided. Is your master adjustable or just a new OEM part?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
pretty sure monster clutches are not supposed to have a shim, i had two of them in my camaro before converting to an auto. I could never get that clutch to shift at high rpm w/o letting off the throttle. Neither time i got the clutch was a shim provided. Is your master adjustable or just a new OEM part?
Car is a 08 C6Z.. Makes 643/550 NA rwhp.. Stock :-Showermaster and new stock slave.. Clutch Monster's 11" race unit rated at 950/950..
 

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I believe there is an upgraded line kit available for them also just like the Mustangs. Very similar problem the old F Bodies had. Once the fluid gets through the line, the orifice gets restricted and does not allow it to get back to the Master causing the pedal to stick to the floor.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I believe there is an upgraded line kit available for them also just like the Mustangs. Very similar problem the old F Bodies had. Once the fluid gets through the line, the orifice gets restricted and does not allow it to get back to the Master causing the pedal to stick to the floor.
Tick Performance makes one.. That's my only option left to try without having to pull the tranny..
 

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Tick Performance makes one.. That's my only option left to try without having to pull the tranny..
ah on the vettes im not sure of the shim, but last i knew monster clutches werent supposed to have the shims thought that was more of a spec thing. Every time i called monster the guys were nice but never solved my problem of high rpm shifts. Kept telling me to bleed the system then passed on of how i needed a tick master to fix the problem. I thought it was kinda funny how my spec performed flawless with a stock master.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
ah on the vettes im not sure of the shim, but last i knew monster clutches werent supposed to have the shims thought that was more of a spec thing. Every time i called monster the guys were nice but never solved my problem of high rpm shifts. Kept telling me to bleed the system then passed on of how i needed a tick master to fix the problem. I thought it was kinda funny how my spec performed flawless with a stock master.
Pretty much the same thing they told me.. They even tried to tell me the only way to bleed the system is from the bleeder on the slave.. I lol and hung up..
 

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With very high rpm, the clutch pedal can stick to the floor as a result of a pressure plate issue. When this happens, the clutch stays disengaged while the pedal is to the floor and once the rpm drops a bit it will come back up. This isn't very common.

If the clutch pedal sticks to the floor, but the clutch is still engaged (still pulling) then you have a hydraulic issue. The tick master will definately help your problem, but if you're boiling the fluid from clutch slip at the slave or the line is too close to hot exhaust/headers even it isn't a guaranteed fix. It will still help however due to less restriction, the heat wrapped line, and more fluid capacity in the cylinder. If you're simply having an issue where the clutch doesn't fully disengage at high rpm the Tick master will cure your issues.

As for the shim, the whole idea is misunderstood by most people including the folks at Monster. By design, the tob will always be against the fingers of the pressure plate once the transmission is installed because there is a spring the eliminates any gap.... Therefore, there will never actually be any gap that would need to be maintained with a shim. What a shim does is get the clearance between the tob when bottomed out and the fingers of the pressure plate so that you maintain the proper amount of throw of the slave cylinder / tob. If you have too much gap when the tob is bottomed out, theres a chance you can blow out the slave when the master extends its full travel to the slave. This is especially critical when using the Tick master because it has the ability to move more fluid due to its larger bore which it turn will move the slave/tob more to get a more complete release at the pressure plate.

I have installed a bunch of Monster clutches and I don't think I've seen one yet that didn't need a shim for these reasons, however with the stock master they probably wouldn't require a shim because even with a huge gap the stock master wouldn't actuate the slave enough to use up the remainder of its travel. To do it right however, they usually need a shim.
 

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Get an RPS and be done with it. You'll be way happier when driving it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
With very high rpm, the clutch pedal can stick to the floor as a result of a pressure plate issue. When this happens, the clutch stays disengaged while the pedal is to the floor and once the rpm drops a bit it will come back up. This isn't very common.

If the clutch pedal sticks to the floor, but the clutch is still engaged (still pulling) then you have a hydraulic issue. The tick master will definately help your problem, but if you're boiling the fluid from clutch slip at the slave or the line is too close to hot exhaust/headers even it isn't a guaranteed fix. It will still help however due to less restriction, the heat wrapped line, and more fluid capacity in the cylinder. If you're simply having an issue where the clutch doesn't fully disengage at high rpm the Tick master will cure your issues.

As for the shim, the whole idea is misunderstood by most people including the folks at Monster. By design, the tob will always be against the fingers of the pressure plate once the transmission is installed because there is a spring the eliminates any gap.... Therefore, there will never actually be any gap that would need to be maintained with a shim. What a shim does is get the clearance between the tob when bottomed out and the fingers of the pressure plate so that you maintain the proper amount of throw of the slave cylinder / tob. If you have too much gap when the tob is bottomed out, theres a chance you can blow out the slave when the master extends its full travel to the slave. This is especially critical when using the Tick master because it has the ability to move more fluid due to its larger bore which it turn will move the slave/tob more to get a more complete release at the pressure plate.

I have installed a bunch of Monster clutches and I don't think I've seen one yet that didn't need a shim for these reasons, however with the stock master they probably wouldn't require a shim because even with a huge gap the stock master wouldn't actuate the slave enough to use up the remainder of its travel. To do it right however, they usually need a shim.
the clutch stays disengaged.. That why I thought it was a hydraulics problem.. I went through 24 floz of Preston DOT 4 and the problem never got better.. I then ordered Motul 660 thinking it might me boiling the fluid.. The clutch drives perfect and the pedal never changes.. The only problem is it sticks to the floor at high rpm shifts and will stay disengaged and after a couple seconds it will pop back up and engage the clutch..
 

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the clutch stays disengaged.. That why I thought it was a hydraulics problem.. I went through 24 floz of Preston DOT 4 and the problem never got better.. I then ordered Motul 660 thinking it might me boiling the fluid.. The clutch drives perfect and the pedal never changes.. The only problem is it sticks to the floor at high rpm shifts and will stay disengaged and after a couple seconds it will pop back up and engage the clutch..

That is definitely a pressure plate issue if the clutch stays disengaged while the pedal is on the floor. You could try to make a new stop for the pedal to see if the pressure plate is actually being actuated too much. Basically just eliminate some of the masters stroke.

I doubt thats the case however, especially with a stock master cylinder.

Most peoples issue is that the clutch pedal sticks to the floor but the clutch is still engaged and pulling as if the clutch pedal isn't being pressed at all. This would be a hydraulic problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
That is definitely a pressure plate issue if the clutch stays disengaged while the pedal is on the floor. You could try to make a new stop for the pedal to see if the pressure plate is actually being actuated too much. Basically just eliminate some of the masters stroke.

I doubt thats the case however, especially with a stock master cylinder.

Most peoples issue is that the clutch pedal sticks to the floor but the clutch is still engaged and pulling as if the clutch pedal isn't being pressed at all. This would be a hydraulic problem.
I'm so happy I was talked out of doing a RAM twin disc with 900 series discs for this POS!!! I love waisting a 1k dollars on un proven shit and doing a clutch on jackstands is a fucking PITA on these!!!
 

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The only times I've seen disengagement issues like that they have coincided with too much heat IE slipping the clutch excessively out of the hole or slipping at high RPM or a line up against the headers. I'd check the TOB clearance because if its not releasing fully it may drive fine until it slips at high RPM.

Listen to Jonathan, this is what he does.

If it were me, I'd throw in a Tick master and I throw Aeroquip fire sleeve over the line. Try to route it away from the headers as much as possible and see if it helps. I'd pull it apart and measure the TOB clearance (with the spring removed and the TOB bottomed out) if that doesn't do it.



Jonathan, since you're here...did you ever have issues in your car maintaining air gap with your Soft Lok using a hydro throwout setup? (I'm assuming it was still hydro in your car...). The other day I set airgap where it was spec'd (~.055") and by 3rd gear the pedal felt a little soft and buzzed a syncro a little bit. Using your MC + bleeder, new OEM slave, fresh Prestone DOT4. I'm thinking I'm going to just have to make more airgap work on the hit....
 

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Hmm.. Not meaning to get too off topic, but I have a question.

I have the engine and trans out of my car right now, and just installed a Tick master cylinder. I have been running a Monster clutch, and plan to throw it back in there. Should I install a shim with it? I wasnt using one before, and I was having high RPM engagement issues, so I ordered the adjustable master cylinder.
 
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