Well, Jim is on the right track as for checking injectors. Jim is also correct that the Red wire should have constant power when Ignition is on. While the engine is running and whatever you use for a noid light, at an idle this light should blink at a steady rate, as engine RPM increases, this blink should be more rapid.
If either injector on #2 is dead, I would suggest using some kind of DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Meter).
Check for Resistance (in Ohm Mode) From Injector #2 (Brown wire) to Injector 10 pin connector, (Pin H) on Injector harness side, you should have a resistance value somewhere between.003 and .007 ohm resistance.
Then check resistance from the 10 pin connector, main harness side, Pin H will be a purple wire on the main harness back to the ECU, ECU pin #S1. Again you should have a similar reading.
If you have no reading at all, there is a break somewhere between the ECU and Injector Connector, but by checking for resistance, should help you isolate where this is. If everything checks out, you could have a bad Injector Driver on the board of the ECU.
As for the engine not revving up issue, have you put a Timing light on the engine and revved the engine up? The timing on the balancer should coordinate with what you have in the FAST Spark Table, if you are using any part of the FAST to retard timing (N20 enable) or the Digital 7 for any type of timing retard, don’t forget to take this into account. If the timing on the balancer is off in left field and does not coordinate with the FAST Spark Table, a couple of things can be done.
1.) Try switching the wires on the crank trigger and run above procedure again, if this does not fix the problem.
2.) Replace the Crank trigger. I like to run the gap between .050 and .080.
Wire color means nothing, so try the wires one way then the other. I.e. Purple to Red, Green to Black and vice versa.
I thought further about your post and added the following, some of which is just thinking out loud.
What puzzles me is, you have one lean plug and seven fat plugs. A lean plug would indicate lack of fuel, too much timing or a combination of both and the exact opposite for the other seven plugs. Both fuel and spark are controlled by the Crank Trigger, which also relates to possibly why the engine won’t rev up as well.
Are you doing anything to Cylinder #2 that you’re not doing to the others, any individual timing and/or fuel management in this cylinder? Does any of the data show what the timing is at, or what the air fuel is?
If you get an opportunity, please give me a call (810) 229-9688.
If either injector on #2 is dead, I would suggest using some kind of DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Meter).
Check for Resistance (in Ohm Mode) From Injector #2 (Brown wire) to Injector 10 pin connector, (Pin H) on Injector harness side, you should have a resistance value somewhere between.003 and .007 ohm resistance.
Then check resistance from the 10 pin connector, main harness side, Pin H will be a purple wire on the main harness back to the ECU, ECU pin #S1. Again you should have a similar reading.
If you have no reading at all, there is a break somewhere between the ECU and Injector Connector, but by checking for resistance, should help you isolate where this is. If everything checks out, you could have a bad Injector Driver on the board of the ECU.
As for the engine not revving up issue, have you put a Timing light on the engine and revved the engine up? The timing on the balancer should coordinate with what you have in the FAST Spark Table, if you are using any part of the FAST to retard timing (N20 enable) or the Digital 7 for any type of timing retard, don’t forget to take this into account. If the timing on the balancer is off in left field and does not coordinate with the FAST Spark Table, a couple of things can be done.
1.) Try switching the wires on the crank trigger and run above procedure again, if this does not fix the problem.
2.) Replace the Crank trigger. I like to run the gap between .050 and .080.
Wire color means nothing, so try the wires one way then the other. I.e. Purple to Red, Green to Black and vice versa.
I thought further about your post and added the following, some of which is just thinking out loud.
What puzzles me is, you have one lean plug and seven fat plugs. A lean plug would indicate lack of fuel, too much timing or a combination of both and the exact opposite for the other seven plugs. Both fuel and spark are controlled by the Crank Trigger, which also relates to possibly why the engine won’t rev up as well.
Are you doing anything to Cylinder #2 that you’re not doing to the others, any individual timing and/or fuel management in this cylinder? Does any of the data show what the timing is at, or what the air fuel is?
If you get an opportunity, please give me a call (810) 229-9688.
