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Discussion Starter #1
If you recall we had talked a month or 3 back (Doug from Prince George) about going to a glide next year due to traction issues. As it stands, I figured out my traction/consistancy issues, it was all in the front suspension travel. The car now happily hooks, hauls the wheels 12 to 18 inches on the launch and the last 3 rounds I raced this season were within .006 of a second. Incrementals now look like 1.42/6.65 @ 102/10.5X @ 127. This is after I removed the exhaust system and the 90 # of ballast I had in the trunk for the past 8 years or so to bandaid my traction issues. I currently have a footbraked TH350/5300 flash stall, and am abandoning the powerglide idea and going with a TH400 with a brake. I'm going with Parkhill Transmission, a local fellow racer and long time customer of our engine shop, plus he's built my TH350's for as long as I can remember.

I'm really suffering with poor reaction times with the current footbrake setup. I asked him what brake he uses, it will be a TCI. Is that a fairly quick reacting brake, or are there quicker ones out there? I would much rather have to slow the launch down than figure how to speed it up. I really hope that changing to a brake is worth a solid .050 or better R/T improvement.

Thanks,

Doug.
 

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Thats a good brake but it's very universal to fit all cases. They work fine but there is room for improvement. A good builder would have to "tune" the brake which would take some machining.


Hutch
 

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Thats a good brake but it's very universal to fit all cases. They work fine but there is room for improvement. A good builder would have to "tune" the brake which would take some machining.


Hutch
Hutch, If you have time could you elaborate a little on this? Wanting to know what type of machining is required. Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the reply Hutch.

I just had a look at my TH350 and it split just in front of the pump like my last one did. Is this an ongoing issue with my chassis (flex) or is the TH400 stronger in that area? I'm running with bolt in subframe connectors and the original GM rubberized captured frame mounts/GM trans mount. Should I look into solid front frame mounts or possibly some sort of limiting strap on the front of the engine?
 

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If its race only , I would suggest solid motor mounts. Check to interference between the floorboards and the trans case. Im sure there is contact somewhere causing the case breakage.


Hutch
 

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Motor plate , midplate and travel limiters and the job is complete. The midplate has to be made properly or its just a waste of material. The midplate should tie the center of the car together , frame, cage , dash bar etc. should all go to it.


Hutch
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hmmm, what if I don't have a dash bar/cage as in the halo and forward bars, just running the basic 6 point roll bar, is the midplate still a waste of time?
 

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Im just suggesting the best midplate design practices in my opinion. As long as there is more to it than 2 tabs to the frame it will serve a purpose as a structural member in the vehicle and I feel it has more of a purpose than just holding up the back of the motor.


Hutch
 

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A car that is running that # is going to be short lived without some sort of integral reinforcement.(weld in frame connectors,at least a 12 point cage, and mid plate.) Will the mid plate be a waste of time? Won't hurt anything but ain't gonna do much for body twist. Ya have to get rid of the flex in the car or your gonna play hell on any case you put in it. jm.02!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Crap, not what I was hoping to hear. Unfortunately, there isn't anyone in my town that does chassis work on a professional level. I need to figure out how to attach the body to the frame in a meaningful way. I don't want to be replacing cases more often than slicks. It would certainlly seem the current transmission is a (poor) structural member in the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks Hutch, that's likely the approach I'll be taking. This season will be spendy enough with an engine rebuild, transmission, driveshaft. I haven't pulled the ring and pinion yet to magnaflux, could be an entirely new ball of wax if that's cracked. (8.5 ten bolt) I guess this is what you get when you work with factory stuff and you start making some HP. If I get this car going much quicker, I'll have to trailer the car south and have a proper roll cage installed anyways.
 
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