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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here is my Daily Driver Foxbody mustang. It is a 1989 and has 18X,XXX miles on it. It burns oil alot and smokes when I come to a stop light. I use to see water consumption but not anymore lately.

Anyway I want a motor built for it next year sometime. I want to keep it on 87 octane and it will only be a street car. But I would like it to be somewhat fast but nothing crazy cause it will remain a Daily driver. So I need it to be reliable. If I were to go to the track just for fun on street tires I'd like to see it somewhere in the mid 13's on a good day.

I'd like to go carb and put a cowl hood on the car. But I don't know what size cowl hood I need to go with a carb set-up with a air cleaner.

Also would like to put weld pro-stars on it. I want a 15inch wheel on it. I want the race-car look for it. Not the low profile look everyone else has.

Well give me some idea's. I was thinking 331 or 347 stroker.

I also want to run 3.55 gear so I can get on the hi-way and play. I drive it on the hi-way often. It is a 5sp car.









 

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...failure to communicate
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I think a DD that clean you should clean up the engine and leave it the %^&*( alone.
 

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if you only want to run 13's, you could do that with what you have right now with some 355's, exhaust and slicks.

331's are good engines. If you want to do the cheapo route, build a 331 with a stock block, gt40p heads and a cobra intake with an e-303 cam and 1.6 rockers. Run it at 8-10 degrees timing and it will probably run in the low 13's on radials without even trying. You could miss 2nd and 3rd and still run 13's
Realistically, that combo on slicks will run 11's, if the car is setup for drag racing
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The motor has to come out one of these days. I hate putting a quart of oil in it every other week. Plus I hate pulling up to the red light with a smoke cloud following me. I just hate that.

I want to make it nicer. put deferent wheels on it. A cowl hood and a nice little motor that packs a punch when ever I need it.
 

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I'd start by ditching the turbines, and that blue stripe.
Call me old school, but you can't beat draglites and a cowl hood. LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have an off road x-pipe on it now along with a CAI. It still has stock headers. I'd like to get a set of shorty headers for it just for now. I'll still use them for the rebuild motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I want to plan ahead so that the motor would be the last thing to drop in.

I want to drive the car still so I'm going to find a 302 and have it built over a course of 6 months or so. Basically how ever long it takes.

First thing I want to do is have the gears put in it. If I want to convert to 5 lug I have to buy new axles right. Are the posi unit's rebuildable. I need mine to be re-built for sure.

You guys know how to beef up a 8.8. The rear-end is what's first on my list. Then I'll get me a cowl hood then go from there.
 

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If you are interested in the GT40P's just thought i'd mention they require different headers. Thats 1 of the reasons I would'nt go with them.
 

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If you don't mind drum brakes in the rear, you can get two of the driver's side (I believe) ranger axles and you have an instant 5 lugs swap on the rear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yeah I really don't know much about ford motor's. I wouldn't know which heads to go with.

I want to start with a good low milage 302 block then go from there. Probably run a scat crank don't know on the piston's maybe some keith blacks. As far as the heads I don't know.

trying to get some idea's from you guys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
If you don't mind drum brakes in the rear, you can get two of the driver's side (I believe) ranger axles and you have an instant 5 lugs swap on the rear.

you for real. So your saying just go to the pick and pull and get axles off a ford ranger truck. And they will go into my 8.8

their are drums in the back right now. Won't bother me none.
 

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If it were me, I would pull the stock motor, re ring and bearing the stock parts and put it back in with some decent aluminum heads, cam and an aftermarket intake and call it a day. Good clutch, gears, rebuilt trac lok and with some sticky tires it should run 13's with your shifting arm tied behind your back :)

Chris
 

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My car was in excellant condition like yours a one owner cherry. I shouldve bought a 4cyl and modded it and not my GT. Just rebuild and clean it up.

Just .02
 

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How is your motor idling? [stalling, rough idle, hunting idle]

replace the intake gasket, pcv valve and PCV screen.

It is quite common for intake gasket to failed at the bottom edge and suck oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Most of the time it idle's find. But somedays it acts up on me. I thought it was the EFI.

By acting up on me I mean. It will idle high. Or when I go to switch gears it will stay at whatever rpm I let off to push the clutch for a second or two three then go down. Weird stuff like that.

Most of the time is idles very smooth.

I can hear a little knock to coming from up top. It's a very quick knock like a fast tap tap tap tap tap. Real fast tap. Not real loud you have to listen for it

It just needs to be pulled and rebuilt.
 

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Most of the time it idle's find. But somedays it acts up on me. I thought it was the EFI.

By acting up on me I mean. It will idle high. Or when I go to switch gears it will stay at whatever rpm I let off to push the clutch for a second or two three then go down. Weird stuff like that.

Most of the time is idles very smooth.

I can hear a little knock to coming from up top. It's a very quick knock like a fast tap tap tap tap tap. Real fast tap.

It just needs to be pulled and rebuilt.

do yourself a favor....
Go to rear of intake manifold.
Look for PCV valve. [it'll be hard to see]
Remove PCV valve and grommet.
Check the screen inside the manifold. Use long needle nose pliers to remove screen.
If screen is missing or clogged...replace the screen and PCV valve.

it doesn't cost you more than 20 dollars, sometimes you'll get lucky.


edit.......forget it...you edit your post.....
 

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Idle-speed control motor might need a cleaning. Some WD40 on the throttlebody linkage and bearings would be good too. Those things will cause the RPM to hang a little high and then drop down.

Gears, exhaust, clutch, and a good tuneup will have you knocking out the 13's in it! That's a real nice fox. Worth more stock than modded!
 
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