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Big Block Killer
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Discussion Starter #1
I got my first clean cut at the track today and here is what the plugs looked like. Please help me tune this thing in. There are 31 pics so here is the link to the album on photobucket. There are a few blurred pics but there are some that I think will show what needs to be seen.

http://s288.photobucket.com/albums/ll181/jacksonwp/Spark%20Plugs%20Sunday%2023%20May%2010/?action=view&current=IMG_0662.jpg

Combination
Engine is a N/A 434 SBF with victor heads.
1100 pro-systems dominator
Wilson 2" spacer
Victor 2828 intake manifold
Compression is around 14:1
Running sunoco supreme fuel (all I can get around here)
Ignition is MSD 6AL
I shift @ 8K RPM.

Thanks in advance for all the help
 

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Never feel comfortable trying to read plugs by photo's. But from what it appears you are real close on timing. Have no clue about reading the fuel ring at the base of the porcelain.

Review this instruction until it makes sense, Mike Canter is very good info http://www.mindsciencemotorsports.com/graphics/PLUG%20TECH.htm
Blessings..........Ron.
 

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8,823 Posts
I got my first clean cut at the track today and here is what the plugs looked like. Please help me tune this thing in. There are 31 pics so here is the link to the album on photobucket. There are a few blurred pics but there are some that I think will show what needs to be seen.

http://s288.photobucket.com/albums/ll181/jacksonwp/Spark Plugs Sunday 23 May 10/?action=view&current=IMG_0662.jpg

Combination
Engine is a N/A 434 SBF with victor heads.
1100 pro-systems dominator
Wilson 2" spacer
Victor 2828 intake manifold
Compression is around 14:1
Running sunoco supreme fuel (all I can get around here)
Ignition is MSD 6AL
I shift @ 8K RPM.

Thanks in advance for all the help

Im not real familiar with that specific fuel .. I would look into what you realy should be using and get rid of the 6AL and use a 7 maybe even a programable if you want...
 

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Big Block Killer
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Discussion Starter #4
Im not real familiar with that specific fuel .. I would look into what you realy should be using and get rid of the 6AL and use a 7 maybe even a programable if you want...
Getting the proper fuel is in the works. Will likely have to drive 4-5 hours round trip but it's the only damn choice I have for the right fuel. Also thought about getting another box but if this one will work that would be wasting money.
 

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Its pretty close, you can see the fuel ring pretty well in the middle photos, the MSD that you have will take you a long ways till you needs the extra's
 

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EFI/N2O JUNKIE
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17,093 Posts
The 6AL should be just fine for you unless you want ICT and possibly a launch timing ramp control. Timing looks ok. Cut some plugs open se we can see the fuel rings. Since this is NA you can play with jets and not worry about killing pistons! That fuel is fine. I use it on my 14.5:1 SBC with no problem. Have even hit it with up to a 100hp shot, so 725hp total.
 

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I just added the link to plug tech to my favorites... Awesome article! Im making my first run for 10s this year. Thanks to all you guys for your help!
 

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Big Block Killer
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1,011 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Here is what the fuel ring looks like...looks a little fat to me...suggestions??





 

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EFI/N2O JUNKIE
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Yes, it's fat, provided you cut the ignition after the traps and didn't drive back on that pkug, it doesn't look like you did.

Lean it out some and see what the MPH shows you. I don't look at ET as much since there are too many variables in that. As long as the wind doesn't change MPH is pretty good to use for HP and A/F determination.

If you aren't using race gas and this is pump gas then forget anything I said! I have found no good way to "read" unleaded fuel plugs!
 

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If it was a fresh plug too never can tell on these if it is cleaning up to where it is also, its still not to far off on the ring, I dont think your going to gain a ton from where you are N/A with it by leaning it down, the problem with be with the changes in the same fuel your buying. Unless its heads up leave some on the table.
 

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Big Block Killer
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Discussion Starter #11
Yes these were fresh plugs right here. Warmed it up, did the burn out, cleaned the engine at the line, staged, made a pass, clicked off at WOT and what you see is the end result.
 

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Big Block Killer
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Discussion Starter #12

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Big Block Killer
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Discussion Starter #14
NGK 5671-10 with 32* timing. A crank trigger supplies the signal and it is rock steady.
 

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Big Block Killer
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Discussion Starter #16

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May sound like a dum question but did you just mix the vp fuel with th old? I have had issues with this in the past. I have a very similar combination and run AR3910'S gapped at .040.(Digital 7 Box) I run about 34 to 35degrees of timing. Do you have some cam specs? How is the car running down the track?
Anthony
 

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Big Block Killer
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Discussion Starter #18
No mix, out with the old and in with the new. Cam is .825/812 lift and 279 and 298 duration.
 

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EFI/N2O JUNKIE
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I've helped with N/A stuff up to 900hp and we never ran that cold of a plug. Call your engine builder and find out why he was running such a cold plug. Most sub 15:1 engines do just fine with a -8 plug. I use a -9 plug at just under 15:1 but I also hit it with a 300hp from time to time and don't feel like changing plugs. A hotter plug would make it look leaner than you are running right now.
 

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Big Block Killer
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1,011 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
All points well taken and I will call the builder tomorrow to get more info on the plug choice. any one have input on whether the plugs are showing detonation? I hate to begin to think about a hotter plug if the car is detonating with a plug that is seemingly too cold. The car ran decent on this particular pass but I'm concerned about the little black marks on a few of the plugs.
 
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