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Discussion Starter #1
Well not really, BUT I Do need Help from the Bullet!
The power passenger sliding door which also has my ramp so I can wheel in to the van, when pressing the open button the door unlatches but stops and I have to push it open manually.
When I hit the close button the door closes half way and stops.
I can pull it closed from there.


From what I have read on this interweb is that most likely the inner sheath has come apart and is bunching up jambing the cable from moving freely.

I have seen where folks have claimed Toyota stealerships have bent them over for $1600 to do the job.

I've found the replacement part for $205 delivered
The Toyota extended warranty (missed that by a year) says about 4 hours flat rate.
So I guess Toyota could charge $1200 for a $200 cable.....

Being disabled with no legs makes this tough. It is my only transportaion that allows me some independence.


Anyone have similar experience with this van (2004-2010 Sienna) Power passenger door?
 

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If this is a handicapped equipped van then a dealership would probably not be able to help you out. You would have to find a mobility dealer that repairs and services that particular conversion (VMI, Braun, etc.) There are all kinds of additional electronics added to the stock configuration. I used to work in the industry 15 years ago and they can be pretty intricate. I'd be happy to check it out for you, but I'm in New Jersey....

Good luck.
 

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I had a Toyota van at the shop a couple years ago with this similar issue. I have a hard time remembering last week much less a couple yrs ago. But I do remember it being something to do with the door lock actuator, it has a switch built in that wasn't being tripped. It would allow the door to pop open and just stop. I had to pull it myself the rest of the way, and would not close all the way either, I had to push it closed. Took me a while to figure out what was going on. It looks like a robot behind the panel. I found it when I was checking the door over, I forced the actuator to fully unlock then the door worked normally. Man I hope this helps, I don't want to send you on a goose chase. You might have a different issue altogether.
 

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I changed one of these over a few weeks ago, first I've ever seen one here in oz. I had the exact trouble after swapping all the bits from old door to new. All it needed was the lock at back of the sliding door had to be decreased then oiled. It was full of dust and gunk.this is the lock which actually clicks it shut that last bit electronically. Hope that helps, but it's probably just an adjustment issue or try oiling all the locks.
 

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Ran into this issue once and it was the battery. It was old and did not carry enough juice to operate the doors yet would still start the van. go figure.
 

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Toyotas not going to fix something they did not install/build. Those vans go from the factory to a conversion dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The power sliding pass door is std toyota.
The van is raised, the flooris dropped from the 3rd seat forward.
A ramp is installed that comes from under the van.
Ground effects kit is installed as to trim out the body.

The door has a TSB for 9 yrs or 120k miles
I'm at 160k and not sure of the exact in service date.


Once the door panel is off we'll go from there I guess.
 

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Call the dealer and ask them about a recall. My brother had the same issue and it was covered, not sure what year his van was. It was also out of warranty.
 

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there is a cable that runs inside and outside of the sliding door. It i mounts inside the door at one end and other is the slide on the side of van. It is serviced as 1 unit. The entire door has to be removed, and torn down to a bare shell to access and install. Very labor intensive. The last one i did, it cam as a complete unit from dealer with motor to the tune of 1100.00. Then you have to readjust door, and re-initialize the door to learn start and stop points
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Went over to Steve's shop. He used to work for me.
We saw the cable was loose and bunched up when opened.
So off came the side panel and the cable was off a couple of idler pulleys.
Put it back on and it works fine.
It has jumped back off a couple of times since, so I'm waiting to hear back from the Braun dealer about an appointment to see if I can get replacement parts or will I have to scour Grainger etc.
They are just 1" or so nylon cable idlers with wobbly bushings.

WHY they replaced the OE assembly with an aftermarket one is beyond me.
It looks NOTHING like an OE unit.
 
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