Yellow Bullet Forums banner

1 - 20 of 46 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
256 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
dont no which way to go.car runs 10.20 et at 131 mph with a slight heasition at the starting line. i have 86 sec. jet and 84 jet pri. with 31 squirter in front and rear. not sure which way to go at this point. any susjestion out there.
 

·
barndoorslammer
Joined
·
2,368 Posts
Usually a hesitation is caused by too much fuel. Try a smaller squirter. F.y.i., if you are not using a power valve, you can jet square if you want to.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
256 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
looey, i have one # 28 squirter, should that go on the primary side and leave the #31 in the secondary side?
 

·
Butch
Joined
·
8,208 Posts
mybobby,

I have some pics posted some where on here but can not find them

What I see on a lot of customers foot brake cars on the street and at the track is this,,,

Look at the over-ride spring on the ACC Pump arm, Push the gas slowly under the hood watching the over-ride spring's nut at the top, I bet anything you will see that nut leave off the arm meaning there will be a gap

THIS IS A HUGE PROBLEM and I have had guys want to give me their junk carburetor then I fix it for them and it is fine. If it does this, Which i bet it does as many Holley's do this off the shelf, remove the nut and bolt and spring, Put 2 small washers at the top of the over-ride spring and this will give added pressure so the spring will not over-ride

After you fix this, Adjust the nut so you start to get fuel the instant the throttle moves, then hold the carburetor WOT and push the lever on the fuel bowl to bottom it out and you must have at least .015" clearance there, if you have more thats fine

If you foot brake this car and leave at 3,000rpm for example, you can delay the pump shot for a harder leave by making sure the initial pump shit hit does nothing below 3,000rpm for DRAG ONLY

Good Luck and fix that over ride spring

If you give me car details along with detailed cam specs and enigne specs, converter and gearing, I can tell you which squirters to start with. I can make 45's work on just about anything
 

·
Butch
Joined
·
8,208 Posts
Usually a hesitation is caused by too much fuel. Try a smaller squirter. F.y.i., if you are not using a power valve, you can jet square if you want to.
It is more than likely a bog and he is calling it a hesitation

We have to clear the engine real good before going on the transbrake or it wont come off the brake as fast from loading up on the brake but set up rich like that it does 60' better. We can tell by the 60' if it was not cleared out before going on the brake, will go from a 1.41 to a 1.415 to 1.417-ish
 

·
barndoorslammer
Joined
·
2,368 Posts
looey, i have one # 28 squirter, should that go on the primary side and leave the #31 in the secondary side?
You can go square as well on the squirters. But If it "pops" through the carb when you go wot, it's too lean. Also, I would check all the things that trmnatr suggested. Good advice, for sure.
 

·
barndoorslammer
Joined
·
2,368 Posts
It is more than likely a bog and he is calling it a hesitation

We have to clear the engine real good before going on the transbrake or it wont come off the brake as fast from loading up on the brake but set up rich like that it does 60' better. We can tell by the 60' if it was not cleared out before going on the brake, will go from a 1.41 to a 1.415 to 1.417-ish
How long are you on the transbrake? ie, pre-stage, staged, top amber? If you can minimize the time on the transbrake at wot, maybe it won't load up as bad? Just sayin'...:cool:
 

·
Butch
Joined
·
8,208 Posts
How long are you on the transbrake? ie, pre-stage, staged, top amber? If you can minimize the time on the transbrake at wot, maybe it won't load up as bad? Just sayin'...:cool:
On the brake longer when bracket racing, top bulb on the brake

When flat out racing heads up the next lane on the brake after the top bulb, release on the third bulb after its on

We get 2-3 seasons out of plugs, So i dont know if i would call it loading up so to speak just that it will slow the 60' down if it is not cleared out before staging. All our junk has been that way for ever and it works better than most similar cars and builds so we are not looking to change
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,969 Posts
Going wrong way, bigger squirts & 50cc pump in rear. Car wants fuel, would've been big cloud of black smoke if it was too rich and cannot get too rich with 30cc pumps and 31 squirts. In case you're wondering, the 30 - 50cc get is how much fuel you'll get if you cycle the pump 10 times (approx) not just once.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,969 Posts
One more thought, believe it or not a low float level can cause hesitation as well. Raise it a bit. When the(secondary) throttle blade sweeps past the transition slot the air pressure differential is lagging the throttle and the fuel is a few milliseconds late. Raising the fuel level a little can compensate for this as the fuel will be higher in the metering block and available for fuel flow. This condition is so common in circle track carbs that we drill holes in the throttle blades and induce a controlled vacuum leak. I don't soreccommend doing this on a drag carb but some come that way from holley. I hope i didn't get too scientific, the carb wants more fuel either the float change, squirter & pump change or both.
 

·
Butch
Joined
·
8,208 Posts
Again did you check the over ride spring, over looked a lot and will keep you chasing gremlins
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
256 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
the over ride spring is fine, no problem there. i have 50cc pump in rear and 30cc in front.i had #35 squirter in front and was hard to start when car sat between rounds. it even cough back and cought fire for a second. i put #31 back in front and never had any more problems.i am scared to put any thing larger than #31 in front. would it hurt to go larger than #35 in rear?
 
1 - 20 of 46 Posts
Top