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Discussion Starter #1
Working on my first set (& last) of headers. They are for a DRCE-1.....I'm at the final welding stage of the process, (welding the tubing, as well as the cast 02 bungs, and the slip-on collector to primary tube fasteners), what is the trick to keeping distortion to a minimum? Going to do some practice pieces to get me up to speed...... hopefully :) Assuming it's best to do small stitches on opposing sides of tubing, and move around to keep heat down? Any tips for an amateur Tig welder would be appreciated. Material is 16ga. 304SS

67899
 

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Nice headers!! You are correct, the tubes should be stitched together, small beads at a time to alleviate distortion. 304 is the best stainless alloy to use for headers, as it contains little, if any, iron content so it will resist rust and corrosion better than other SS alloys such as 409.
 

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They look real nice to me.
 

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Back purge helps cool, tack way more than you think you should and keep moving around to control heat. Have heard break it to 4 sections. Weld 1 90, skip 90, weld the 180, then final 90. Moves heat and by the time you finish the second 90 it's pretty solid to keep it going
 

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Working on my first set (& last) of headers. They are for a DRCE-1.....I'm at the final welding stage of the process, (welding the tubing, as well as the cast 02 bungs, and the slip-on collector to primary tube fasteners), what is the trick to keeping distortion to a minimum? Going to do some practice pieces to get me up to speed...... hopefully :) Assuming it's best to do small stitches on opposing sides of tubing, and move around to keep heat down? Any tips for an amateur Tig welder would be appreciated. Material is 16ga. 304SS

67899
I just ring them around. as long as the tacks are good enough and I usually have only 4 tacks. Running short stubs like that into the collectors could be a problem, I try and avoid that, preferring at least a inch away from the end of the slips to stay away from distortion at that area. It is pretty hard to keep the tubes round no matter how you weld them. Speed of welding helps, I would step up the temps and go faster and dunk them in water right away. Having a expander is the only way to resize short sections like that after squeezing them round again. Ha!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I have the pass side header welded up, had a couple of tubes move around a bit. No longer line up at the cylinder head in a "relaxed" condition, (have to force the tube into position). Can I make tubes move by shrinking on the side that needs to be pulled back into position (like the method used on mild steel) or am I going to cause problems hardening the material by quenching it?
 

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304 SS is not effected by a water quench. You would need to be in 400 series SS. You are doing a nice job, take your time and plan ahead.
 

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Are you fusion welding , or adding filler?
That's kind of a tough decision. These application adding filler can help, but sanitary tube is fusion welded. Could be possible fusion all around then go back with a second bead to fill it up some more.
 

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TEAM CARB
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You can make them move by rewelding one side and air cooling the same side. The side you heat/cool will shrink.
 

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The Liquor Makes Me Think
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i thought most ppl fusion weld ss headers. the more filler you add, the more that area will pull.
 
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