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I made my bracket to use my cable from the carb instead of a bell crank linkage. Got tired of buying shit to try and make it work.





Okay, I need to ask.....

With those tabs on those stacks the way they are, doesn't it have an adverse effect on airflow going into the trailing injector stack?
 

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Okay, I need to ask.....

With those tabs on those stacks the way they are, doesn't it have an adverse effect on airflow going into the trailing injector stack?
I am going to guess no, figuring the way a stack works. They are made to flow bar none every last CFM available to run maximum air fuel mixture available within the motors parameters. There is no its too small or its too big, Its tuned to run at idle and wide open throttle to the motors potential and that's all you can tune to. I went from 4 inches of air flow to 20 inches of air flow. The tabs probably have very little bearing on air flow.

I am still dialing it in but am pretty close now and another 400.00 should cover it.
 

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Hey guys, sorry this is going to be a long question. But I'd like to get you all the information here best I can. I was contracted to wire a Prostreet (non-raced) 64 corvette.
The complete car, lights, headlight motors, wipers, etc and a Holley HP system. The car has a 496 Big Block Chevy running a Fast Duel sync distruber, Deka 42lb injectors. It has a Enderle 8 stack unit that has been converted to EFI with their 1/8th npt Injector fictures & vacumm manifold plumbed to each runner to get a signal to the map sensor. Running 3/16ths line to each injector from a distrubution block on 43lb fuel pressure. Timing has been verified at idle to 18 degrees. I'm having 2 issues.
1) Idle control. I set all the throttle blades completly closed and fired the thing up. Idles right at 900 rpm, all good until it gets heat in it and the blades are sticking. Called alkydiggers and they said you need to run a .002 gap on the blades and to set them when its hot. So i did that and the sticking is gone but now idles at 1600rpm. Any tigher than .002 and they stick! I pulled all the bladed and made sure the bevels were facing the correct direction.
2)Popping thru manifold! I am guessing that it is lean pops? I started out with a AFR of 14.5 and worked my way down to 13.8-13.5 now and the issue has really got better. But it does it ramdomly. No certain Cylinder either. Completely ramdom!
I have limited knowledge tuning EFI other than my MS3 Ls turbo car which I got sorted out pretty well. And I have a understanding of how it all works. But this being a 8 stack, I'm in left field.
So at this point is there anyone that this guy can take this car to, to get it sorted the rest of the way out? Anyone with experence with these? Or should we ditch this entire setup and move on to something else? Tunnel ram? any other suggestions? The guy that owns the car has no knowedgle what so ever and just wants to be able to get it and drive it and not mess with anything.

So I'm looking for suggestions on how to procced. Thanks
 

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Did you check with Enderle?
 

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Hey guys, sorry this is going to be a long question. But I'd like to get you all the information here best I can. I was contracted to wire a Prostreet (non-raced) 64 corvette.
The complete car, lights, headlight motors, wipers, etc and a Holley HP system. The car has a 496 Big Block Chevy running a Fast Duel sync distruber, Deka 42lb injectors. It has a Enderle 8 stack unit that has been converted to EFI with their 1/8th npt Injector fictures & vacumm manifold plumbed to each runner to get a signal to the map sensor. Running 3/16ths line to each injector from a distrubution block on 43lb fuel pressure. Timing has been verified at idle to 18 degrees. I'm having 2 issues.
1) Idle control. I set all the throttle blades completly closed and fired the thing up. Idles right at 900 rpm, all good until it gets heat in it and the blades are sticking. Called alkydiggers and they said you need to run a .002 gap on the blades and to set them when its hot. So i did that and the sticking is gone but now idles at 1600rpm. Any tigher than .002 and they stick! I pulled all the bladed and made sure the bevels were facing the correct direction.
2)Popping thru manifold! I am guessing that it is lean pops? I started out with a AFR of 14.5 and worked my way down to 13.8-13.5 now and the issue has really got better. But it does it ramdomly. No certain Cylinder either. Completely ramdom!
I have limited knowledge tuning EFI other than my MS3 Ls turbo car which I got sorted out pretty well. And I have a understanding of how it all works. But this being a 8 stack, I'm in left field.
So at this point is there anyone that this guy can take this car to, to get it sorted the rest of the way out? Anyone with experence with these? Or should we ditch this entire setup and move on to something else? Tunnel ram? any other suggestions? The guy that owns the car has no knowedgle what so ever and just wants to be able to get it and drive it and not mess with anything.

So I'm looking for suggestions on how to procced. Thanks
So looking this over with my limited knowledge several things come to mind. As far as setting the throttle blades. Yes that needs to be done at operating temp. The castings are aluminum and shift with heat. So you got that part done correctly.

Next is the huge red flag!! Where's the idle air control and throttle posistion sensor?!?!? You don't speak of such. I'm not familiar with Holleys program as my set up is a FAST conversion. I'll wait for you to reply.
 

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I saw a nice vac source setup, on a Hilborn.
A small hole was drilled on the bottom side of each runner. A box was then welded to the underside of the manifold. A plenum is created. [You have none, as it is now.]
An IAC is plumbed thru the manifold to the plenum. No hoses to deal with.
Checking manifold bolt torque when hot, can help w/ sticking. Check the bores w/ a dial bore/snap gauge. Bores can be out of round. A used manifold can also have shafts and bores worn.
Don't see that the shafts have "flex coupings".
 

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Ok so you do have a plenum under the intake. No iac...hmmmm. Seems pretty important to me being that the ecm is going to constantly making adjustments. How about an air temp sensor and coolant sensor? Also who did the conversion? I'm plumbed out of the plenum for the map AND the iac. I'm not sure how mixing a mechanical feature in with the ecm would work. Even setting the blades correctly the ecm is going to manage a/f at idle. Once again I'm not familiar with holleys program. How does the ecm control idle air? The standard 2 thou on the blades may need to be changed with holleys program, idk.
 

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I believe I have figured it out. It all was all throttle plate adjustment. They need to be closed. They need to be adjusted when the car is Hot. But right now as the car cools down they stick in the bores. So they car will have to warm up until your able to drive it. I have no done a cold start yet with them adjusted this way, so we will find that out today. I am also probably going to cut the shafts in half and get the adjusters Hilborn has on their setup. I was told .002 clearance but that's for mechanical injection not Efi. There is no IAC on this setup and idles fine when warm, but this cold start may be an issue which I could see having a Iac would be handy.
 

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I believe I have figured it out. It all was all throttle plate adjustment. They need to be closed. They need to be adjusted when the car is Hot. But right now as the car cools down they stick in the bores. So they car will have to warm up until your able to drive it. I have no done a cold start yet with them adjusted this way, so we will find that out today. I am also probably going to cut the shafts in half and get the adjusters Hilborn has on their setup. I was told .002 clearance but that's for mechanical injection not Efi. There is no IAC on this setup and idles fine when warm, but this cold start may be an issue which I could see having a Iac would be handy.
There's a lot of finesse into getting these units to perform properly. Are you for certain it's all blades sticking when the engines cold? Maybe it's just 1?? Personally I'd pull 1 blade at a time until I found the culprit or culprits then pull the shaft and do a light hone on that hole or holes. I'm pretty much confused on this holley system. What makes it idle? The map and a/f reading? And this setup has no air temp sensor?
 
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