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The guys at Kammer and kammer's machine shop filled my block with Hardblok Filler 2 years ago but earlier this summer i noticed my car was not staying as cool as it should. So i popped the radiator cap and saw "gravel" looking chunks in my radiator...i pulled the rad out, flushed it, and put it back in and thought not much more of it. Then the next week out, same cooling issues after 2 runs....i got home and popped the cap again and sure enough, more chunks. Come to find out, the hardblok was crumbling. I now have the motor apart and my water jackets look like a rock quarry. What is going on and how do i stop it? I CANT, CANT afford to just chuck the block. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks
BP
 

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maybe get as much of the loose chunks out of the water jacket, clean block very well, and get it bone dry. Then do an epoxy fill on top of the hardblock.
 

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My question is, how many people's blocks are they ruining with that shit? After reading this, I will never use that crap, it can't be worth it.
 

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Bad mix or block prep. That stuff and the moroso when set up properly you cant get it out. Did a couple of blocks some been running for 15 years no problems. If its coming out like you said I would try to get most of it out before doing anything else.
 

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I had the same problem and it was the back two cylinders on mine. We didn't have any experience with the stuff when we mixed it up and short filled the block. My solution was to replace the block with one that didn't need filler.
 

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If it's crumbling it's not doing it's job and supporting the block. I hate to say it but you're gonna have to replace the block, either now or after it fails.
 

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It's a cement based product and there are rules to adhere to when mixing the stuff. Put too much water in it when doing the initial mix and the final set strength will be affected greatly.
 

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I would clean it out before doing anything.

I did a short fill on my block with Embecco 885. Supposed to be somewhat superior to hard block...No issues yet after one season.

I have heard that you can get block fill out of the water jackets using muriatic acid (which is the same stuff I used to thoroughly clean my water jackets before pouring the stuff).

I would be a bit leary though of pouring more fill on top of an already crumbling foundation in there, even if you cleaned all the flaked stuff out...What says the other stuff isn't going to come apart anytime soon?
 

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Butch
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My question is, how many people's blocks are they ruining with that shit? After reading this, I will never use that crap, it can't be worth it.
No issues with Hardblok, it goes in every GM block we do. Prep is the key and mixing. I have 6 tall fill units in the shop. Never had an issue and there are gains with it!
 

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Butch
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Gains? Like what?
1) Takes longer to heat up
2) Cools down faster
3) Have seen ring seal issues, and Hardblok fix the issue due to installation and a plate hone
4) By keeping the cylinders true there is less boring/plate honing needed during rebuilds

There are down sides,,,
1) Weight added on the nose
2) Oil cooler needed to cool the hot oil, HOWEVER, we have used it on the street, track and in circle track engines and never had a problem with hot oil temps.
 

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1) Takes longer to heat up
2) Cools down faster
3) Have seen ring seal issues, and Hardblok fix the issue due to installation and a plate hone
4) By keeping the cylinders true there is less boring/plate honing needed during rebuilds

There are down sides,,,
1) Weight added on the nose
2) Oil cooler needed to cool the hot oil, HOWEVER, we have used it on the street, track and in circle track engines and never had a problem with hot oil temps.
What kind of oil are you running in the engines that see street use with filled blocks?

I ran Penn Grade 1 since I have a flat tappet, 10W40, oil temps get to around 240 and I start shitting my pants...mainly because the next peg on my oil temp gauge is 280 and Brad Penn's tech guy told me at around 260 the oil really starts cooking and is no longer doing its job
 

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I'm preparing to do a short fill on one of my 400 blocks. Hope I have better luck! I'll try and keep it on the thick side. I bought the Hardblock brand.

I'm going to use a stock 4.3 rad that has an oil cooler built in. Decided to go ahead and plumb the cooler for some insurance. Drag only no street.
 

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Butch
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What kind of oil are you running in the engines that see street use with filled blocks?

I ran Penn Grade 1 since I have a flat tappet, 10W40, oil temps get to around 240 and I start shitting my pants...mainly because the next peg on my oil temp gauge is 280 and Brad Penn's tech guy told me at around 260 the oil really starts cooking and is no longer doing its job
For conventional oil Valvoline VR1 and/or Valvoline NSL, I do not run thick oil and my hot pressure on mine and every engine I do is between 20-25 PSI hot at idle and 50-60 PSI MAX at 8000-8500 RPM. Pressure is an indication of restriction, more restriction = more heat just from the restriction. For synthetic I like Mobil 1 5W30 and Royal Purple
 

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For conventional oil Valvoline VR1 and/or Valvoline NSL, I do not run thick oil and my hot pressure on mine and every engine I do is between 20-25 PSI hot at idle and 50-60 PSI MAX at 8000-8500 RPM. Pressure is an indication of restriction, more restriction = more heat just from the restriction. For synthetic I like Mobil 1 5W30 and Royal Purple
Are those synthetics compatible with flat tappet cams? Is the Mobil 1 an off the shelf oil?
 

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Muratic acid may help clean out much of the old loose stuff to give you a good solid base to seal in. Stuff stinks. I think you need to try to get out as much of the loose stuff as possible then clean it with muratic acid, let it dry good and put more hardblock or something on top to seal it in.
 

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I have an aluminum block that is half filled. Looking into the jackets, it doesn't look like the filler is adhered to block. It looks fairly chunky and not very level as if it was lumpy when poured. What should it look like?
 
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