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I guess the answers to a few questions could help with my opinion, but I'll give you a start. Is this a chassis vehicle &/or the cab mounted rigid to the frame or does it still have rubber body mounts? If rigid mounted, I'd consider using a vertical step-like piece (sometime referred to a "Z" channel, even though the bends are 90*) of sheetmetal mounted to the back of the cab & screw the bedside front flanges to that. Painted flat Black, they would mimic the normal gap between the cab & bed.

In the rear, more questions...What are you doing where the tailgate goes? This will change my thoughts. How about the top of the bed, will it be open, covered with aluminum, ect? Lorne
 

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The Liquor Makes Me Think
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Discussion Starter #3
Good idea on the "Z" channel.
The body will be ridged mount.
and with the tailgate. Its just going to the skin with a few tabs tacked in that I would dezus to matching tabs on the bed side.
Im planning on alum cover for the whole top as well. But still need to figure out how to support the bedsides to the frame which will be ~30" inbound.
 

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Good idea on the "Z" channel.
The body will be ridged mount.
and with the tailgate. Its just going to the skin with a few tabs tacked in that I would dezus to matching tabs on the bed side.
Im planning on alum cover for the whole top as well. But still need to figure out how to support the bedsides to the frame which will be ~30" inbound.

Here are a couple of pictures of how mine is setup. I'm running fiberglass bedsides on mine, so they don't weigh much. If running steel bedsides, you might want to go a little larger on the tubing. This system works great. I have 16 gauge sheetmetal squares (4 of them) epoxied to the inner bedsides for anchor points. I have nuts welded to the squares, then all thread to make studs. I have the front mounted with Dzus fastener brackets and quarter turns. The rear metal skin is also anchored using quarter turns as well.



Jeff
 

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The Liquor Makes Me Think
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Discussion Starter #5
Here are a couple of pictures of how mine is setup. I'm running fiberglass bedsides on mine, so they don't weigh much. If running steel bedsides, you might want to go a little larger on the tubing. This system works great. I have 16 gauge sheetmetal squares (4 of them) epoxied to the inner bedsides for anchor points. I have nuts welded to the squares, then all thread to make studs. I have the front mounted with Dzus fastener brackets and quarter turns. The rear metal skin is also anchored using quarter turns as well.
Jeff
Looks great! Thanks for the tips.
Is that solid rod? What size?
 

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I'm doing the same thing. I am gutting the bed and using a .125" aluminum bed cover. I plan on just building tubular outriggers, then using four quick release pins to remove each bed side. I'm using a Hairys glass tailgate that will be held on with hidden pins also. Eventually I want to use the old sides to make molds for glass bed sides.
 

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I'm doing the same thing. I am gutting the bed and using a .125" aluminum bed cover. I plan on just building tubular outriggers, then using four quick release pins to remove each bed side. I'm using a Hairys glass tailgate that will be held on with hidden pins also. Eventually I want to use the old sides to make molds for glass bed sides.

Mine used to be mounted with 1/4 turn fasteners on the sides of the bed. Worked for a few years. As I started going quicker and hitting harder off the line the fasteners started failing randomly. After it happened a few times I changed up to studs and nylon nuts. I found that I didn't pull the bedsides off anywhere near as much as I originally thought I would.





Jeff
 

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The Liquor Makes Me Think
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Discussion Starter #9
I'm doing the same thing. I am gutting the bed and using a .125" aluminum bed cover. I plan on just building tubular outriggers, then using four quick release pins to remove each bed side. I'm using a Hairys glass tailgate that will be held on with hidden pins also. Eventually I want to use the old sides to make molds for glass bed sides.
Ha. Funny you replied to this. Im building a dakota.
Why so heavy on the cover? I was thinking .060" or so. In two or three sections with hinges for fuel cell access.
What size out riggers are you thinking?
PS. I'm also thinking of building oem dimension glass bedsides for it too. These steel ones are heavy haha.
 

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The Liquor Makes Me Think
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Discussion Starter #10
Mine used to be mounted with 1/4 turn fasteners on the sides of the bed. Worked for a few years. As I started going quicker and hitting harder off the line the fasteners started failing randomly. After it happened a few times I changed up to studs and nylon nuts. I found that I didn't pull the bedsides off anywhere near as much as I originally thought I would.





Jeff
Thats a good point. How often would the bed sides be off. I was thinking of the conveniece of switching from steel to glass sides. But, Its not like a few bolts would be a whole day project lol.
 

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Ha. Funny you replied to this. Im building a dakota.
Why so heavy on the cover? I was thinking .060" or so. In two or three sections with hinges for fuel cell access.
What size out riggers are you thinking?
PS. I'm also thinking of building oem dimension glass bedsides for it too. These steel ones are heavy haha.

Honestly I probably will go lighter on the cover. Haven't gotten that far yet.

I'm thinking .500", shouldn't need more. I have a few friends who have done it that way with .250" T pins on the inside for quick removal, which is what I would do.

Yeah, sadly the only glass bed stuff available is for off-road trucks it seems. Thankfully Hairys still makes the rest.
 

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Mine used to be mounted with 1/4 turn fasteners on the sides of the bed. Worked for a few years. As I started going quicker and hitting harder off the line the fasteners started failing randomly. After it happened a few times I changed up to studs and nylon nuts. I found that I didn't pull the bedsides off anywhere near as much as I originally thought I would.





Jeff
I'll be using .250" quick release pins on the inside. The ones with the ball detent.
 

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My bed-cover was done using .063" aluminum. I have 1" aluminum angle running down each side and held in place with 10/32 button head hardware with nylon lock nuts to secure.

The front and rear edges of the first 3 pieces of bed-cover where bent at 90° on a brake at about 1.5". That added enough stiffness to not require side to side supports. The rear section was hinged and the rear held in place using a couple of those small push button type pins. The first 3 sections are held down using the same 10/32 button head hardware down each side. The aluminum angles were tapped so I can just run the hardware in and out with ease.

I'll throw a couple of pictures on for you to get an idea.




Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #14
My bed-cover was done using .063" aluminum. I have 1" aluminum angle running down each side and held in place with 10/32 button head hardware with nylon lock nuts to secure.

The front and rear edges of the first 3 pieces of bed-cover where bent at 90° on a brake at about 1.5". That added enough stiffness to not require side to side supports. The rear section was hinged and the rear held in place using a couple of those small push button type pins. The first 3 sections are held down using the same 10/32 button head hardware down each side. The aluminum angles were tapped so I can just run the hardware in and out with ease.

I'll throw a couple of pictures on for you to get an idea.




Jeff
Looks great! Thanks for the pics. Thats exactly what i had in mind for mine.
 

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Any issue with the entire inner bed being removed with air getting under it?
My bed-cover was done using .063" aluminum. I have 1" aluminum angle running down each side and held in place with 10/32 button head hardware with nylon lock nuts to secure.

The front and rear edges of the first 3 pieces of bed-cover where bent at 90° on a brake at about 1.5". That added enough stiffness to not require side to side supports. The rear section was hinged and the rear held in place using a couple of those small push button type pins. The first 3 sections are held down using the same 10/32 button head hardware down each side. The aluminum angles were tapped so I can just run the hardware in and out with ease.

I'll throw a couple of pictures on for you to get an idea.




Jeff

Thats pretty slick!
 

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Any issue with the entire inner bed being removed with air getting under it?



Thats pretty slick!

Sorry... I didn't see your question at the top of your post until now.

No issue at this point. I've only had it up to 148 mph at this point, but have not noticed any problems.





Jeff
 

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The Liquor Makes Me Think
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Discussion Starter #17
Sorry... I didn't see your question at the top of your post until now.

No issue at this point. I've only had it up to 148 mph at this point, but have not noticed any problems.





Jeff
Im leaning more and more to having the rad in the bed too.
 
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