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I agree. I have reached out to Haltech to see if you can share two 25A to make a single 50A, or any of the other 8A outputs for that matter.
 

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Brushless pumps are supposed to use less current than normal pumps...that said, current is directly related to the pressure you're trying to achieve with the pump.

Of course, the next question is does the ecu have a configurable 0-5v output to allow easy control of the speed of the likes of the Aeromotive brushless pump. ( although it can be achieved other ways with a regular PWM output )


For their variable speed models you can use the TPS sensor voltage. Page 5.
 

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the 25 amp outputs have a pin rating for continuous 25amp, you can set the fuse at 50amps to use more than 25 amps for short periods of time.. you can also set the soft start which limits current draw on start up for fans and pumps that pull more than 25 on start up but are less at normal usage
 

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Just asking. Haven't compared the different features of both.

It needs no comparison, the two are totally different units.

The Nexus is a single unit designed to run the entire car ( plus dash and switch panel obviously )

The Dominator is just an engine control unit ( and trans if so desired ). But then lots of conventional fuses, relays etc are needed as well.
 

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I just installed the 10gpm Aeromotive pump. Based on their wiring instructions (they recommend using 6ga wire along with the 60amp fuse) I'd say you will still need to use an external relay.
 

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Discussion Starter #98
The Elite 2500/2500T/REM already had the Holley Dominator system more than covered. The Nexus is on a whole different level. Holley seems to think Fueltech is their main competitor and has started adding boxes to be more like them like that is a good thing. For years on here everyone wanted everything in one box, Holley now thinks everyone wants half a dozen boxes to run the engine LOL. I'll take the single box Nexus and run the entire car, thank you Haltech.
 

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Obviously the Fueltech is a very good system, but it does seem a bit crazy they need different boxes for everything.

Really, a couple of well designed units could make vehicle wiring a lot easier.

One bigger unit up front for all engine/trans/dash controls, and then maybe another at the rear to take care of anything installed out back.

Then just link the two via CAN, which would really minimise any wiring needed and remove almost all long runs of multiple wiring to opposite ends of the vehicle.
 

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One bigger unit up front for all engine/trans/dash controls, and then maybe another at the rear to take care of anything installed out back.

Then just link the two via CAN, which would really minimise any wiring needed and remove almost all long runs of multiple wiring to opposite ends of the vehicle.
A split elec system like described above, makes a lot of sense to me...especially in a street/strip vehicle
 
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