Got new heads and new valve covers
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Joined
·
13,416 Posts
What kind are they? Im sure their worth some horse power.
Joined
·
3,829 Posts
Edelbrock performer heads
I totally agree! the more the better! But who can argue with that price and weight savings?
Joined
·
4,947 Posts
That fan is costing you a ton of ET.
Joined
·
8,263 Posts
No shit. Those fans probably suck about 20 HP off the motor. LOL Not to mention when the rivots break, man they make a mess of the radiator.
Ditch it and get a good electric.
Joined
·
3,419 Posts
I have seen those fans come apart."dangerous"
Joined
·
3,829 Posts
How much if with a 350 ci did 13.20's???
Has plenty cam has a voodoo lol and plenty heads jus got them and plenty intake too
Joined
·
4,947 Posts
Make a run and then take it off. I bet you pick up a tenth if not more.
Don't the electrics run off the alternator, also drawing a bunch of power out of the engineNo shit. Those fans probably suck about 20 HP off the motor. LOL Not to mention when the rivots break, man they make a mess of the radiator.
Ditch it and get a good electric.
Joined
·
1,361 Posts
You dont have to run the fan during a pass:roll:Don't the electrics run off the alternator, also drawing a bunch of power out of the engine
Joined
·
8,263 Posts
LOL! Um... Noooooooooooo.
Joined
·
8,263 Posts
If it put out full amperage at all times, it'd cook your battery and itself in short order.
An alternator uses a constant current/constant voltage charging scheme.
It brings the system voltage up to ~13.5 volts and puts out whatever amperage the battery will absorb until it's full again, while providing power to whatever electrical component draw the system might have.
It's the alternator's job to provide enough electrical energy to run the car. It's the battery's to simply have enough power to start the car and provide enough energy to keep the car's computer's memory when the motor isn't running.
If the only draw on the alternator is say the tail lights, it's only going to drag off enough energy to supply that one amp.
If, however, the alternator is powering the ignition, the water pump (if electric), the fans (if electric), fuel pump (if electric), lights, trans brake, data logger, etc etc etc, then yeah, the load on the alternator is going to be significantly higher and it will pull more power from the crankshaft.
This is another reason you NEVER want to take a totally dead battery, jump it, and then let the alternator charge it up. Running an alternator in full load condition for a long time will cause it to burn out.
You also never want to size your alternator to the same size as your current draw. If you draw 60A worth of current, you want an alternator capable of 100A to 120A. Doing this will allow the alternator to run at increased efficiency, and it won't be taxed, thus shortening it's life span.
An alternator uses a constant current/constant voltage charging scheme.
It brings the system voltage up to ~13.5 volts and puts out whatever amperage the battery will absorb until it's full again, while providing power to whatever electrical component draw the system might have.
It's the alternator's job to provide enough electrical energy to run the car. It's the battery's to simply have enough power to start the car and provide enough energy to keep the car's computer's memory when the motor isn't running.
If the only draw on the alternator is say the tail lights, it's only going to drag off enough energy to supply that one amp.
If, however, the alternator is powering the ignition, the water pump (if electric), the fans (if electric), fuel pump (if electric), lights, trans brake, data logger, etc etc etc, then yeah, the load on the alternator is going to be significantly higher and it will pull more power from the crankshaft.
This is another reason you NEVER want to take a totally dead battery, jump it, and then let the alternator charge it up. Running an alternator in full load condition for a long time will cause it to burn out.
You also never want to size your alternator to the same size as your current draw. If you draw 60A worth of current, you want an alternator capable of 100A to 120A. Doing this will allow the alternator to run at increased efficiency, and it won't be taxed, thus shortening it's life span.
Joined
·
1,212 Posts
Those aluminum "Flex-Fans" blades straighten out as RPM goes up, thus using less HP than similar steel bladed fan that does not have a thermal clutch........
Replace those fans regularly as a preventative maintenance item.
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
