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Hey fellas,
Here is the deal. Bought my cutlass, car was poorly put together but had tons of high quality parts and a bunch of money thrown into it.. Just horribly assembled. It was already fast, just so poorly put together I was afraid to tech it. Once I rewired the car and got the wood and bullshit out of the trunk the fuel cell and battery was mounted to. I took it to the track, running 10.2s around 134-135mph.

Car had trick springs front and rear and spa-1 koni shocks on all 4 corners. But it looked like shit. Car has 29.5x10.5 but looked like it could clear a 35. I tried cruising around town and the car handled horribly. Needed to establish a base line, pulled the springs and shocks which only had a couple passes on them.

Front installed moog 6 cylinder springs - moog 5372 cut 1.75 coils off of it, looks great. Cheap kyb shocks

Rear installed qa1 12x150 and cheap kyb shocks. Has hotchkis adjustable uppers and hotchkis non adjustable lowers. Edelbrock Upper control arms braces. Rear end is was built by Dutchman when they were in oregon. Chris Alston fabbed 9", strange center section, 4.30 35 spline spool.

There is an adjustable bracket on the housing right lower control arm. I moved it to be even with left side, it was the next hole down. Is this to preload the suspension?



Car weighs 3550 with me in it and about a gal of gas. I scaled it and can give the info if needed.
Ran the car 4 times on friday and I couldn't hammer on from the tree. Car goes right, if I baby it and keep the 60ft around 1.6 the car will go straight down the track. Ran a 10.49 at 131. But I gave it a little more pulled a 1.56 and was getting out of it cause it was going toward the wall.

I've been reading lots but I still can't figure what that bracket is for. I'm guessing it's for preloading the suspension? But it's not on the left side. If it is to preload, is that the correct way to do it? Will an antiroll bar help me leave straight? Left front is lifting
Rearend is centered. Front weight is around 57%
 

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Hey fellas,
Here is the deal. Bought my cutlass, car was poorly put together but had tons of high quality parts and a bunch of money thrown into it.. Just horribly assembled. It was already fast, just so poorly put together I was afraid to tech it. Once I rewired the car and got the wood and bullshit out of the trunk the fuel cell and battery was mounted to. I took it to the track, running 10.2s around 134-135mph.

Car had trick springs front and rear and spa-1 koni shocks on all 4 corners. But it looked like shit. Car has 29.5x10.5 but looked like it could clear a 35. I tried cruising around town and the car handled horribly. Needed to establish a base line, pulled the springs and shocks which only had a couple passes on them.

Front installed moog 6 cylinder springs - moog 5372 cut 1.75 coils off of it, looks great. Cheap kyb shocks

Rear installed qa1 12x150 and cheap kyb shocks. Has hotchkis adjustable uppers and hotchkis non adjustable lowers. Edelbrock Upper control arms braces. Rear end is was built by Dutchman when they were in oregon. Chris Alston fabbed 9", strange center section, 4.30 35 spline spool.

There is an adjustable bracket on the housing right lower control arm. I moved it to be even with left side, it was the next hole down. Is this to preload the suspension?



Car weighs 3550 with me in it and about a gal of gas. I scaled it and can give the info if needed.
Ran the car 4 times on friday and I couldn't hammer on from the tree. Car goes right, if I baby it and keep the 60ft around 1.6 the car will go straight down the track. Ran a 10.49 at 131. But I gave it a little more pulled a 1.56 and was getting out of it cause it was going toward the wall.

I've been reading lots but I still can't figure what that bracket is for. I'm guessing it's for preloading the suspension? But it's not on the left side. If it is to preload, is that the correct way to do it? Will an antiroll bar help me leave straight? Left front is lifting
Rearend is centered. Front weight is around 57%
Yes an ARB will help the leave, it's job is to try and distribute the power evenly between both tires. A bodies have a tendency to drive the right rear up into the body and separate in the left side in their natural state. Also you will not need a front sway bar or is you don't have one you will see an improvement in handling. My personal opinion is that there should be NO pre-load on the factory style suspension, if it's going right something is wrong.

A bodies in our power range depend on weight transfer for a good 60', obviously if you're only getting 150 60's you're leaving some time on the table, you should probably be in at least the high 130's at that power level. Have you done anything else to the front like loosening the a-arms? Have you measured your free travel in the front? What is the cars basic mission...street with a little race....race with a little street...mostly race...these things will determine how far you might want to go with some of this.

I'm at the same weight...basic specs...509..11 to 1..hyd roller..5000 converter...TH400...3.89's...M/T 3062s tire......loose front a-arms....stock a-arms....Moroso 250# Trick Springs...Calvert 90/10 shock.....in the back QP 9"....stock lower arms...Eddy adj uppers....BMR 2" lowering springs...QA1 DA shocks....BMR ARB....ride height in the back is more a function of helping to set the instant center of the car than for looks. There are calculators you can use to see where you are on instant center, this is going to relate to how the power is hitting the rear tires. My car typically 60's in the low 130's and if it's really hooking good will go in the lower 140's on the back tires (as in video below).

You will get a lot of opinions on this, I'm only sharing what seems to work good on mine....if you want to discuss it more shoot me a PM....;)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the info DaveyN,
No front sway.
Im definitely leaving something on the table for my 60ft. The car always goes to the right and the more I let it eat off the line, the worse it gets. I think the car 60ft alot better if I can just get it to go straight, so I can feed it more pedal.
Car is mainly used as a race car, I do cruise around town a little but i run 112 race fuel so I dont cruise very much. It was just used as a race car when I bought it. Thats why I changed the suspension. With the trick springs and the spa-1 the car sucked to drive around and I wanted some seat time before I went and beat on it.
Your videos are great and it looks like your suspension works well.

I noticed you were at woodburn! That is where I go, just usually go to the friday night street legal stuff so I can make alot of passes.
How do you like your BMR bar? I dont have a stock tank so I was looking at weld in units like trz arb. Id like to get in the 9s and I think the car will do it with a little suspension help.

Here are more of my specs 494- 13.3-1 cp pistons, grp rods. Custom ground crane solid roller 276/290 .685/.680 110 centerline. Edelbrock heads, victor int and dominator- 5000 cont converter, turbo400, 4.30 spool 29.5x10.5
 

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Hey we're all here to help each other....yes Woodburn is my home track..I will be there this next week for the Summit ET finals...parking starts on Wednesday and we run through Sunday. If you want to come out and watch some really good bracket cars (they are expecting over 650) then please look me up and we can talk. My pardner had a set up very close to yours and got into the 9.70's so yeah..let's get it to launch....now one thing...the Friday night track is not the most ideal. It might be worth it to you to enter a series race like the Nostalgia race coming up in September just to get a good track so you can see what it really does in the 60....September 13-14 is the Fall Classic.... you will have a fresh prep'd track in Trans brake so you can see what it really does....Jay usually always prep's the track before TB....Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Put a BMR extreme anti roll bar in over the weekend. Hopefully Ill make it to hotrod nationals and try it out. Do you use any preload on yours? The left rear of my car sat about 1/2 higher on the right rear corner. I adjusted the bar links to be the same length and I measured as much of the rear suspension as I could and its all square and straight. The kit was pretty easy to install, very happy with it
 

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in my wagon I had a air bag in the pass spring it helped alot with the a body bogie as we called it
went with the g body twist
lol
 
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