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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I dropped my glide off to my trans. guy today. I talked to him about clutches, and would like to get some more opinions.

Background on the car is: 72 nova tube chassis (2535 race wt.), 427 sbc NA (approx 650 hp), PTC converter, 1.76 glide with basic upgrades, sportsman brake, and 5 disc clutch pack. When I picked this car up a year ago I took the glide in to him to have it looked over and dynoed. It supposedly had 25 passes on it when I bought it. He went through it and everything looked good to him, including the clutches. I ran it this season with no issues.

Today I told him with my head and manifold work this winter, I should be pushing 700 hp. I asked him if he thought 5 clutches was enough, depending on what everything looks like when he gets into it. He said he has some out there pushing more than that but every application is different. He went on to say he can put 8 clutches in my drum and recommends the Raybestos blues. I asked him if it was necessary to jump to 8 at my power level instead of 6. He said if you're going to do it, you might as well go 8.

I thought I remember reading on here to only use as much clutch as needed. I don't remember if it was Hutch or who it was but I could be wrong as I know nothing about the inner workings of transmissions. I try to absorb what I can on here but most of it reads like a foreign language to me!

What do you builders think? Hutch? I'm not trying to second guess my guy, I'm just trying to be an informed consumer when he calls me and tells me what he finds so I can make the right decision. What if he says my 5 clutches still look good after 170 passes, do I go with it?
 

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NO NEED FOR 8 CLUTCHES @ YOUR WEIGHT... AND HP,,, HELL I HAVE 5 IN MY BERETTA WITH A 404 CUI @ 790 HP, AND 200HP OF SPRAY, AND MINE LOOK FINE, IN FACT HAVE BEEN IN FOR 4 YRS NOW............AND YOU DON'T NEED THE BLUES, WASTE OF MONEY.......CHECK YOUR LINE PRESSURE
SET IT @ 200-210, OR YOUR BUILDER AND CALL IT A DAY..........
 

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NO NEED FOR 8 CLUTCHES @ YOUR WEIGHT... AND HP,,, HELL I HAVE 5 IN MY BERETTA WITH A 404 CUI @ 790 HP, AND 200HP OF SPRAY, AND MINE LOOK FINE, IN FACT HAVE BEEN IN FOR 4 YRS NOW............AND YOU DON'T NEED THE BLUES, WASTE OF MONEY.......CHECK YOUR LINE PRESSURE
SET IT @ 200-210, OR YOUR BUILDER AND CALL IT A DAY..........
good call agree !
 

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If its a stock drum you can get 8 in there but you don't need that. You have to change to .060" clutch's anyway and if you keep standard .068" steels just go with 6 or 7 clutch's with a backing steel up top to keep it safe.


Hutch
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If its a stock drum you can get 8 in there but you don't need that. You have to change to .060" clutch's anyway and if you keep standard .068" steels just go with 6 or 7 clutch's with a backing steel up top to keep it safe.


Hutch
Hutch, please bear with my ignorance, but when you say I have to change to .060" clutches anyway what exactly do you mean? Is this thinner than what I have now and gains extra clearance for the additional 1 or 2? When you say backing steel up top, does this mean use a steel up top instead of a clutch? What clutch material would you recommend for an application like mine? If my guy says the clutches look good should I ask him to mic them? Sorry for all the dumbass questions...I'm trying to learn! Thanks in advance.

Doug
 

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Thinner gets you more, better I do not believe so. At your power level,wt. Alto reds should last years if every thing is right
 

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The clutch's that you have now are likely .100" , either grooved ST300 or PG if they are smooth. You will have a tough time getting 6 .100" clutch's in a stock drum without getting dangerously close to the edges of the hub or the bottom of the drum slots.

Its normal to use a .060" clutch when going to more than 5 and I assume thats the direction your guy would be going if he felt a change was necessary.

Using std thickness steels is a good idea if you can . The .060" steels don't take much heat and can warp easily. What I meant by using a backing steel , is. You start with a steel and end with a steel to keep the clutch splined a little furthur onto the clutch hub. They can sometimes jump the spline and it makes a big mess for nothing.


Hutch
 

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Hutch; I understand exactly what your talking about. We had EDMd shims for the bottom center underneath the OEM steel flanged ring under the hub to shim it a tad up to over come this. It also leaves enough clutch hub spline at the bottom for the clutch splines. Been doing this for years, works great. We also had EDMd the correct diameter shims for the back tail shaft roller thrust washer at the very back of the case and the pump washer. Fit as though they were OEM factory. We normally go; 6-Clutch,8-Clutch,10-Clutch with Pro-Mod drum depending on torque and horse power. Burt
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The clutch's that you have now are likely .100" , either grooved ST300 or PG if they are smooth. You will have a tough time getting 6 .100" clutch's in a stock drum without getting dangerously close to the edges of the hub or the bottom of the drum slots.

Its normal to use a .060" clutch when going to more than 5 and I assume thats the direction your guy would be going if he felt a change was necessary.

Using std thickness steels is a good idea if you can . The .060" steels don't take much heat and can warp easily. What I meant by using a backing steel , is. You start with a steel and end with a steel to keep the clutch splined a little furthur onto the clutch hub. They can sometimes jump the spline and it makes a big mess for nothing.


Hutch
Thanks for your time and patience Hutch, I know this is mundane shit for a guy like you. Wish you were closer, I would just take it to you and forget about it!

Doug
 
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