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Tryin to get every bit on drag radial. Had a 24 jet and was using the gear retard pulling 6 degrees from 4000 to about 6500 to get the car in the 1.18 60fts. Now went to a 26 jet to clean up the tune and add alittle power. Pulled another degree because of the jet change and tried pulling another 4 degrees from 4000 to now 7000 rpm for a total of 10 and still couldn't get the car off the line. Any info on what others are using ????? Thanks
 

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I would use the launch retard, if the car spins the tire a little and the rpm go over 6500 it puts the power back in and probbaly makes it worse, only problem with the launch retard is it takes the timing out as soon as the brake is applied
 

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I would use the launch retard, if the car spins the tire a little and the rpm go over 6500 it puts the power back in and probbaly makes it worse, only problem with the launch retard is it takes the timing out as soon as the brake is applied
I thought Launch Retard pulled timing on release of trans brake? That way it won't make the motor stumble from low timing.
 

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It pulls it as soon as you activate the trans brake.... Maybe do a combination of both??
 

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^^^ This^^^

I know on my car, I can get it to 100% power far faster using just a controller than using retards.
 

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Trevor Stripling
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I would put a nitrous controller on it and forget all the trying to do it with timing.......yes it can be done with timing, but why limit yourself. Use what is available.

Monte
X3
 

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X4
i resisted the use of a controller for years because i never saw one that was better than using the 7531 box by its self. until i tried the NOS Launcher.
i think i had a pretty good handle on the 7531. but, after only 4-5 test hits i was just as fast with the controller and am now just a little quicker with the same mph and the same tune up.
 

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RED ROCKET
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X4
i resisted the use of a controller for years because i never saw one that was better than using the 7531 box by its self. until i tried the NOS Launcher.
i think i had a pretty good handle on the 7531. but, after only 4-5 test hits i was just as fast with the controller and am now just a little quicker with the same mph and the same tune up.
i wonder how often the solenoids will have to be worked on...i had a progressive and it worked great for a few trips to the track and then the solenoids wouldnt open...my solenoids were 2 years old and had high amp coils..pulled my hair out trying to find the problem..the coils were dying and couldnt open above 800psi...would have low amp coils lasted longer?
 

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Use the Launch Retard, along with the Ramp, until you can launch without spinning. If you have a data logger, study the ACC to see what the track can take. If you want to limit power at release of the TB even more, make sure there is NO DELAY in the Step Retard. You can also use the "dots" to set an upper limit the ERPM will go to before cylinders start dropping...not a big fan of this one, but is useful to "salvage" a run. There are those having tremendous success with Progressive (Monte, Trevor, Kevin Neal & others), but we had too many instances of sticking Noids, and went with multiple stages & the 7531 box to apply power.

Good luck.
 

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The nitrous guy
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One of the most circulated nitrous "myths" is that nitrous controllers beat up solenoids. Guys, these are industrial solenoids, adapted to an automotive application. They are designed to open millions of times without failure. All the controller does is rapidly open and close the solenoid. Most all controller related solenoid failures are a direct result of improper installation or wiring. Wiring that is too small, taxes the coils in the solenoid and burns it up, just like it would in any other application, only with a controller, you have stressed it more times. It is NOT the fault of the controller, it is the improper wiring

Monte
 

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Monte, our experience with the sticking Noids (n20) was a few years back, & we have learned a great deal more since that time. You are likely right about the cause / effect. Our experience was with the Edelbrock controller, & I know many are having great success with it. As yuou stated, our problem may have been in the wiring, or relays, voltage, etc. Thanks.
 

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The nitrous guy
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There is nothing electrical, that can cause a solenoid to "stick". The plunger is spring loaded, so it always wants to close. When you energize the coil, the magnet pulls the plunger up. The only thing I have ever seen "stick" a solenoid, was if someone has used pliers on the stem and bent it, the plunger can drag in the stem and stick. I suppose enough trash, could stick a plunger in the stem, similar to it being bent. You can also get a piece of trash under the plunger. In the last case, it is actually closed, but the trash allows nitrous to pass between the plunger and seat, making it seem "stuck" open.

Not trying to argue Ronnie, just pointing out that while you may have had some problems, it was highly unlikely the controller, caused those problems. One of the many issues that Steve and myself have to deal with, is long accepted myths and wives tales, about nitrous and or it's use and components. So I just want to make sure that nobody reading this, thinking about using a nitrous controller, thinks it can cause a solenoid to stick open or closed, because that is just not possible. Of course, you could have an electrical issue, that caused it to keep ground applied, keeping a solenoid open, but still, that solenoid is not "stuck", it simply has the power circuit completed

Monte
 

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Monte, your time "learning" me is appreciated!
 

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Power Grid allows a delay before applying the launch retard.


Not to get off topic.....But this new Power Grid is awesome. I like it a lot so far and reccomend it to anyone who is buying a new ignition.
 

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We've had people say that our progressive in our ECU couldn't open thier solenoids unless they started with high percentages and then they just opened and wouldn't pulse. I have found alot of people run their nitrous pressure way high in my opinion. I've seen guys that like to run thier pressure at 1100 and more even. They always say they like it to "hit" harder, but some solenoids can't open under that much pressure. I like 900 to 950 max.
Just something from our Tech lines.
 
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