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Discussion Starter #1
I'm using a NOS Launcher progressive controller with Zex Solenoids and when testing it, I found out that when the Nitrous Solenoid is pulsing (on the ramp-in) the Fuel one just opens and stays open until the activation switch is released. If I disconnect one of the wires going to the Nitrous Solenoid, the fuel one will pulse then? WTF? I am sure that they are supposed to pulse together, otherwise the A/F mixture will be pig rich on the ramp-in, right?
I have both Solenoids wired to a common ground which is connected to the progressive controller and the other wire for each is connected to a common 12V supply.
I've checked the wiring diagrams and everything is as per instructions and the controller seems to be working, so I'm thinking that it must simply be that the Zex Solenoids are simply not compatible with the NOS controller - maybe the Nitrous Solenoid is acting as a capacitor and feeding back enough voltage to the Fuel one to hold it open??? Could it be that this is why Zex doesn't make a progressive controller??
Anyone have this sort of issue before? I've already ordered new Edelbrock Solenoids. The only reason I used the Zex ones is because I had them already.
 

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one thing is the fuel sol is very hard to hear or feel pulse when the nos is close to it because the nos is so much bigger and pulses so much more than the fuel . when i hooked mine up i thought the same thing till i checked it with a test light . not saying that your prob just a thought
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah, I know what you mean, but if I put my hand on the fuel solenoid, I can definitely feel it open and then close, but no pulse? I haven't tried the test light, though. That's a good idea. I will double check, but I'm sure it's not pulsing. This one has me stumped...
 

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I'm not sure about the NOS Launcher but on my Edelbrock there is an option to turn the fuel pulse on or off. Check your instructions and see if there is the same option on your launch.
Nevermind I just read your post again. I would imagine the launcher is similar to the eddy where it pulses the grounds to activate the solenoid? Do you have a relay to run the noids or are you running them without?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm not sure about the NOS Launcher but on my Edelbrock there is an option to turn the fuel pulse on or off. Check your instructions and see if there is the same option on your launch.
Nevermind I just read your post again. I would imagine the launcher is similar to the eddy where it pulses the grounds to activate the solenoid? Do you have a relay to run the noids or are you running them without?
Yep. It pulses the ground (which I think most, if not all, controllers do). I don't have a relay on the solenoids, but have the positive side powered by a 12V source through about 2 feet of 10ga. wire.
The 12V source is a positive wiring block powered through a 50 amp Maxi fuse and an 8 ga. wire (from the battery post on the starter), that powers up when I switch on the battery switch). I am pretty certain that the Solenoids are getting enough juice to open them both, so a relay wouldn't help, I think.
I've also tried wiring the positive side of each solenoid separately to the 12V source and the same thing happens.
According to Zex, their Nitrous Solenoid requires 16.4 amps and the Fuel only 1.9amps, (I think).
 

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Discussion Starter #7
swollen plunger??
I don't know. The Solenoid is new/unused. Never even seen fuel until 3 days ago?? It opens (at least it clicks) and closes and will pulse fine if the Nitrous one is disconnected.
I've also tried changing the frequency from 20 Hz to 15 and it makes no difference.
I will check to see if there is a feature that stops the Fuel Sol from pulsing, but I cant see how, as they are share the same ground wire (from the progressive controller) and the same 12V positive supply?? It must be that the Nitrous one is somehow feeding enough current back to the Fuel one to keep it open???
 

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I thought those controllers utilised two seperate ground wires? , this was the case when i ran a progresive , not the same as your's but just sayin............................................FWIW the controller had nightmares trying to pulse any solinoid over 12 amps , worked fine till i swapped the 8 amp solinoid out for a 16 amp.
 

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Was there ever a solution to this problem? Having the exact same problem with exact same controller exept with nos cheater solenoids.
 

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I'm all ears for a solution as well. One of my cars rolls black smoke while the progressor is ramping in. Checked it out and my fuel solenoid isn't pulsing. Cheater fuel solenoid and Super pro shot n2o solenoid using a NOS mini. I thought about wiring one stage to the fuel and the other to the n2o solenoid. There has to be a solution other than that.
 

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I know on my older system I had the grounds hooked up in series and would work in testing, but when it came to actually use them making a hit they wouldn't work? I ended up running each sol to ground rather than together and cured the issue. These things seem to be very reliant on proper power n grounding
 

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Had a similar issue with the nos progressive. Changed the hertz to 15 if I remember correctly and it worked.
 

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If you have the fuel and nitrous solenoids wired in parallel, which it sounds like you do, then that is likely your problem. Solenoids are highly inductive devices, and when power is applied to them, they store energy. That energy is released when the power is removed from the solenoid, same as in an ignition coil, and this energy release is not instantaneous. So for that period of time the solenoid is discharging, it acts much like a battery, holding a voltage that decreases over time.

The problem that you are having here is that the nitrous solenoid is a much bigger coil storing much more energy than the fuel solenoid. So when the progressive turns off power to the solenoids, the nitrous solenoid acts like a battery, keeping enough power across the fuel solenoid to keep it open for a period of time. If your duty cycle is sufficiently high, the nitrous solenoid never discharges low enough to allow the fuel solenoid to close. This is why the fuel solenoid pulses when there is no nitrous solenoid present, as the "battery" is not there to keep it turned on.

Going to a lower frequency will help, but that can create other problems as well, depending on what you are trying to do.
 

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Also, you may be able to minimize the problem with some flyback control techniques. Modern nitrous controllers generally have really good flyback control built into the circuitry, but I can't say how good it is on the unit have, as I am not familiar with it. Maybe it could stand some help with the flyback management.
 

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Has anyone found a solution for this? A friend is using the 15974NOS on Zex solenoids and the Fuel solenoid is not pulsing because the nitrous solenoid is keeping the fuel solenoid on constantly from the back feed of power.
 

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I thought ya just hold a feeler blade above the stem to see if it's working ..... At least that's how it was done in the old days .... :cool:
 

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The launcher has the ability to drive both solenoids independently, that would be my first attempt to remedy the problem. The wiring diagram will show you how to do this.
 

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I have never used or wired a progressive controller.
I have done a lot of work with solenoids.

Assuming there are separate outputs for the Fuel and N2O.

Could your problem be caused by the N2O solenoid keeping the Fuel Solenoid energized due to interference from the collapsing field of the N2O Solenoid.

Try disconnecting both solenoids and hook up 2 test lights, one for each solenoid and run it though the paces.

If both test lights appear to pulse, then I would try a 20-30 amp diode across each solenoid to quash the collapsing field. These diodes will need to be installed with the arrow head on the diode pointing towards the positive lead/source.
I will say it again arrow facing towards positive. If installed in the wrong direction the diode becomes a dead short when the solenoid is energized.

The closer to the solenoid the better they work.

While the solenoid is energized the diode will be transparent. When power is removed and the solenoid coil field is collapsing the diode becomes a dead short and quashes the collapsing field and the energy it would normally have produced. A collapsing field on a DC voltage coil flows in the opposite direction to the voltage and current flow when the solenoid/coil is energized.
This momentary release of energy can be quite high and can be a constant source of electrical gremlins as well as damage to modules controlling them.
Transmission brakes can give you the same heartaches as well.
Hope this helps.
Dave
 

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First off I don't think it has anything to do with the controller. My race car did not have this problem but I added diodes across the leads of the n2o noids when I first plumbed it all. My street car had the issue but the addition of a diode on that system cured the problem. I also want to mention I use the same part number solenoids on both cars and they both use the same controller.
 
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