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Discussion Starter #1
Trying to find a sending unit that will work with the stock gauge in a foxbody. Would ideally be 6" long (no homo)

22ohm empty and 145 ohm full
 

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How are you going to add a "variable resistor" to it ?

Just adding "a resistor" would basically make it read one reading , at all times.

Can't you just go to a junkyard and get a useable one from a junked car?

That would seem to be the cheapest route to get it working again.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
How are you going to add a "variable resistor" to it ?

Just adding "a resistor" would basically make it read one reading , at all times.

Can't you just go to a junkyard and get a useable one from a junked car?

That would seem to be the cheapest route to get it working again.
I can't use a stock one with the fuel cell. Needs to be tube style for appropriate fit.

Idon't know much about electronics but after some reading, it made me think I could add a 30 ohm resistor and it would adjust all readings by 30 ohms, not make it all the same?

Again, I have no clue.
 

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I can't use a stock one with the fuel cell. Needs to be tube style for appropriate fit.

Idon't know much about electronics but after some reading, it made me think I could add a 30 ohm resistor and it would adjust all readings by 30 ohms, not make it all the same?

Again, I have no clue.
So, I am a little confused about what you currently have.

Does your sending unit work at all?

Or, is it just out of range and doesn't read correctly?

You posted you have 25 ohms empty and 125 ohms full.

Is that what you want it to read, or what it actually does read?
 

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Any specific reason you’re using a cell?

I sumped the stock tank and ran AN lines to the pump. Sumping the stock tank, you should be able to use your current sending unit.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
what cell? what does the manufacturer recommend? Or is this a one-off application?
Im building one from scratch

So, I am a little confused about what you currently have.

Does your sending unit work at all?

Or, is it just out of range and doesn't read correctly?

You posted you have 25 ohms empty and 125 ohms full.

Is that what you want it to read, or what it actually does read?
The stock gauges read the 22-145 ohm, therefore I'm trying to find a sender that will fit in close to that range. I do not have a sender currently, but need one that will
A) fit in the cell that is 6" deep
B) work in the proper range so my fuel gauge works

Any specific reason you’re using a cell?

I sumped the stock tank and ran AN lines to the pump. Sumping the stock tank, you should be able to use your current sending unit.
Weight reduction, I don't have a tank, cool factor, would like to build one.

No good reasons. But those are the reasons.
 

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Im building one from scratch



The stock gauges read the 22-145 ohm, therefore I'm trying to find a sender that will fit in close to that range. I do not have a sender currently, but need one that will
A) fit in the cell that is 6" deep
B) work in the proper range so my fuel gauge works



Weight reduction, I don't have a tank, cool factor, would like to build one.

No good reasons. But those are the reasons.
a stock tank is pretty cheap, even new. I thought about going with a fuel cell but weighing the pros and cons, it just made more sense to use the stock tank.

Ease of fueling up, functioning fuel gauge, and ease of making it look clean we’re my biggest reasons.

You will also need to Seal off the fuel cell from the drivers compartment, so keep that in mind also.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
a stock tank is pretty cheap, even new. I thought about going with a fuel cell but weighing the pros and cons, it just made more sense to use the stock tank.

Ease of fueling up, functioning fuel gauge, and ease of making it look clean we’re my biggest reasons.

You will also need to Seal off the fuel cell from the drivers compartment, so keep that in mind also.
It's going in the stock location with stock filler neck. Im a bit of a fabricator/moron so I like to make things harder, while making them look slightly cooler :cool:
 

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I can't use a stock one with the fuel cell. Needs to be tube style for appropriate fit.

Idon't know much about electronics but after some reading, it made me think I could add a 30 ohm resistor and it would adjust all readings by 30 ohms, not make it all the same?

Again, I have no clue.
Is this the fuel cell you're going to weld together?
Zim
 

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So your gauge is a Bi Metal type then , Right?

OR ... do you have a magnetic type fuel gauge?

Ford used both in that pony.
 

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Do you have the sender that came out from the original tank?

Or, how do you know you need a 22-145 sender?

And Yes, you CAN add a resistor in series with a lower ohm unit to get the low reading to 22-25 (empty)
 

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To test the gauge ,unhook the sending unit wire, then a resistor is hooked to the sender wire (the wire tha goes to the gauge) and the other end is hooked to a known good ground,


The magnetic gauge will read full with a 10 ohm resistor
It will read empty with a 75 ohm resistor

The Bi Metal leaf type gauge will read full with 145 ohm resistor
It will read empty with a 22 ohm resistor

The quickest way to tell which gauge you have would be to hook the sender wire to ground (low resistance) and see if it heads towards full or empty

The magnetic gauge will go to full or above

The Bi Metal job will go towards empty
 

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Keep in mind the gauge may move real slowly.It may take a minute or two for the gauge to move far enough to notice. The reason is because they have whats called a slosh modulein the instrument cluster

It keeps the gauge from swinging wildly on the dash when the fuel sloshes around in the tank, which would move the float arm wildly. It slows the change of the gauge .
 

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Looks like the fuel gauge sender wire is yellow with white back at the tank. The black wire in the same connector will be ground.Verify with a DVOM that it is a good ground and use it to test.
 
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