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Front Weights

3142 Views 29 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  BillyShope
How much difference should there be between the left front and right front weights? Other than adding or removing weight is there any way to change it?
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How much difference should there be between the left front and right front weights? Other than adding or removing weight is there any way to change it?

I never worry about it.

It will just be what it is based on how the car is built, Engine Offset and accessory placement, also how much the driver weighs, and then how much and which rear tire carries the preload.
I never worry about it.

It will just be what it is based on how the car is built, Engine Offset and accessory placement, also how much the driver weighs, and then how much and which rear tire carries the preload.

So being 54lbs heavier on the drivers side wont affect anything?
No, I have had cars 200 lbs heavier on the left front
Some chassis are built with droop on the driver's front - this preload will counter the axle torque to some degree - ie -> cause the passengers front action to go dead quickly (infinite spring rate)
I never worry about it.
Would you worry about it if the pass front had 200lbs more than the drivers front? I sure would. :)

Rear preload will change the front loading as will a damaged chassis and many other things.
If everything is ok then the drivers front should weigh more then the pass front.
Would you worry about it if the pass front had 200lbs more than the drivers front? I sure would. :)

Rear preload will change the front loading as will a damaged chassis and many other things.
If everything is ok then the drivers front should weigh more then the pass front.

Nope, it is what it is. you cant change what the front weights will come out to without moving parts or weight around in the car.

Setup a car with a 350 lb driver and see what the weights end up...
Like anyone else I am always talking about the car with the driver seated and race ready. If the FR is less than the FL something is not right. Period.
Like anyone else I am always talking about the car with the driver seated and race ready. If the FR is less than the FL something is not right. Period.
I have only scaled one car ever that had the front weights the same..

and that car was set up with 120 lbs of left rear preload.

Picture a piece of plywood, now place an 1/2 shim under the front left corner and the right rear corner, now how much weight are the two others corners holding? 0

When you add weight to the right rear the left front adds weight right along with it,

I suspect you have not scaled many cars!
I suspect you really are not too smart. If the pass front weighs more than the driver front something is not right. To argue it is just plain stupid.
If the car requires left rear preload, and the engine is offset to the Passenger side and you have a light weight driver the right front will more than likely be lighter than the left front.

but yes most any bracket type car that uses right rear preload they will be heavier on the left front.
Here lately it seems like everything I have been scaling is using Left side preload!

Even a couple of Bracket cars, but it is hard to think of an 826 cubic inch Naturally aspirated car that runs 6.70's a Bracket car!
Ok I have to ask... why? The motor spinning backwards!
Who is driving one of your cars?
Jeff has built and worked on many cars running 6 and 7 second at over 200 mph.
Ok I have to ask... why? The motor spinning backwards!
Who is driving one of your cars?

As the Power level goes up the rotation of the chassis throws weight onto the right rear tire and the car will drive left. Bickle is building some HUGE antiroll bars to try and combat that some, but every High HP car that I work on is running some left side weight..

I dont build many cars any more mainly do repairs and upgrades and maintenance several cars for people.

I have 4 customers that provide 90% of the work I do anymore.

1 Has a Bickle car, 1 Has a Haas car, 1 has a Stoupe car, and 1 has one of Mine.
High HP cars rotate the RR up and hit the RL harder. Adding weight to the RL would make it worse. You have it backwards.
Hey Fontaine.. My Backward Turbo Car (the one I built) just went 4.47 @ 169 tonight with 110 lbs of left rear weight....

I will drop it with you and will leave it up to a difference in setting up a car.. but call some ProMod guys and a Few Outlaw 10.5 guys and ask them the weights if they will tell you!
tell me where I am wrong and I will admit it. Lets see the video from tonight.
His Brother e-mailed it to me, dont have a clue how to put a video up...E-mail me and I will send it back

[email protected]


High HP car use negative preload (more weight on left rear) because the chassis torque will load the right rear harder than housing rotation will load the left rear.

alot of it has to do with the shock settings being so stiff for High HP cars, I think some of it has to do with the extra stiff ARB's (although Bickle says his monster ARB will help eliminate some Negative preload) but the housing rotation is negated by the torque of the engine rotating weight onto the right rear..

I work on Dave Pierces Bickle built ProMod has been 4.05 it usually carries around 50-60 lbs on the left rear.

I work on Keith Haneys TS car it is a Stroupe car, 826 inch Schmidt motor, it has run 6.74 it has 25 lbs of left rear.

Todd Kitchens Outlaw 10.5 car, HRC car (that is me) 530 inch BBC with twin 91's it has 110 lbs of left rear,

Ron Muenks Outlaw ProMod (I dont work on this one) he does not have a clue of the weights but runs 6 flats of negative preload. We were talking about this tonight...

I cant explain it all but just know that there is a point that cars require you to take the preload off the right and start moving it to the left as the power increases...

On Kitchens car I can tell when he spools the car to hard because it will drift left and it is set up to launch at around 9-10 lbs of boost, if it is higher the car will go left
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