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Discussion Starter #1
So anybody every done them??Theres like 3 u joints on the front drive shaft,never seen anything like it. Dealership wanted $250 to replace them...seem right or crazy?? My buddy at the Ford dealership said he could damn near get me a whole new front driveshaft for close to $300,he thought $250 sounded a little crazy. But he also said hes never done the front ones before on these so it could be a pain. Any insight fellas??Thanks in advanced.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Cardan (double) joint? If so,I'd just buy a new shaft.They can be a pita to change.
Yea,there's a joint that connects it to the front axle,then two back by the transfer case. Looks wild,my buddy basically said the same thing,too just buy a new shaft.
 

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Front drive shafts rebuilt for that are around $500. If you are gonna rebuild yours make sure you have it balanced. it's pretty involved to build though, there is a ball seat kit in between the two joints that needs to be replaced. I'd get the reman shaft.
 

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check and sea if there are any driveline rebuilders in your area. we have one in Baltimore called "A1 Driveshafts" and they can usually make you a new one or re-build your old one for about 1/2 the price of a new oem shaft....
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'll look into that,friend over at Ford said he can get a new one for about $300. I haven't looked into a remanufactured one yet.
 

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If they are anything like I am thinking/remembering... My Broncos always had similar set ups. They ain't bad.
Just u-bolts or bolt on flanges at both ends of the shaft, right? The double used to get called a constant velocity joint. Not to be confused with today's front drive or other CV joints. They were just 2 ordinary u-joints in a carrier. It took a little more time and had to be sequenced correctly, but I did it quite a few times years ago. I just packed the bearing cups full of grease to hold the needle bearings because you had to place those in the carrier then slide the body of the joint into them. Again, this is from memory. I would just get 3 Dana u-joints (all were the same part # then). Look like the pic in the link at all?
http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/MC/4954-07052916.html?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=ff&utm_term=1979+Ford+Bronco+Driveshaft+A1+Cardone+Rear+79+Ford+Driveshaft&utm_content=MC&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Bing
 

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check and sea if there are any driveline rebuilders in your area. we have one in Baltimore called "A1 Driveshafts" and they can usually make you a new one or re-build your old one for about 1/2 the price of a new oem shaft....
There are a couple around: D.C.,Baltimore,Denver,etc.Quick turn-around and good prices.

Maybe 1 near you.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If they are anything like I am thinking/remembering... My Broncos always had similar set ups. They ain't bad.
Just u-bolts or bolt on flanges at both ends of the shaft, right? The double used to get called a constant velocity joint. Not to be confused with today's front drive or other CV joints. They were just 2 ordinary u-joints in a carrier. It took a little more time and had to be sequenced correctly, but I did it quite a few times years ago. I just packed the bearing cups full of grease to hold the needle bearings because you had to place those in the carrier then slide the body of the joint into them. Again, this is from memory. I would just get 3 Dana u-joints (all were the same part # then). Look like the pic in the link at all?
http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/MC/4954-07052916.html?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=ff&utm_term=1979+Ford+Bronco+Driveshaft+A1+Cardone+Rear+79+Ford+Driveshaft&utm_content=MC&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Bing
I believe it looks like that. It don't look hard but who knows,gonna do some searching. Thanks guys.
 

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just went through this yesterday!

04 f250 diesel

to have it rebuilt by Shaftmasters in michigan, they wanted $350
local salvage yard wanted $250 for "used" one
Varsity Ford here in michigan got me a brand new one for $314! ready to bolt in. bolted it in about an hour ago. shaft is slightly smaller than the orignal on the truck, making it easier to pull the drain on water seperator
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yup,I dunno,I've looked up how to replace the u joints,it doesn't seem to be any different than a normal drive shaft. May just try it,if all else fails ill get a new shaft from Ford.
 

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Its not that bad to replace the joints. My 98 F-150 regular cab, 4x4 short box has one of the cardan joints in the rear shaft. Its a little tricky to press both joints in at the same time but a bench vise makes the job easy...Make sure to grease everything up nicely and pocket the money you would have spent on a new shaft...
 
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