Plan on towing my open trailer with my 1989 26' motorhome on a ford E350 chassis. It has a hitch but its only rated for 3500#. Car and trailer will weigh 5000#. It has frame extension that are bolted to org frame. What have you guys done to beef this up so it will tow without flexing and bending the extensions. Pics would help. Thanks JKaz
Frame reinforcement when towing with a RV
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5,295 Posts
seen it done 2 ways, plate the side's of the rails or we welded a 1/4 by 2 piece of stock to the bottom of the rail, and replaced the hitch with the a heavy duty unit.
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371 Posts
225 digger do you have a toad or know somebody that does? Just wondering what there like? 40' rv w/30' renegade stacker.
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2,949 Posts
I had the frame rails reinforced and upgraded the hitch and bagged my motorhome. When I bought it I made sure I bought one with the biggest wheel base for the least amount of rear overhang.
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Good point on wheel base. I've seen motorhomes that had the frame welded with extra steel. Seen one that had a C channel welded on bottom of frame from axel to back. Trailer toads work well.
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769 Posts
Trailer Toad is teh best you can do. Even with all the reinforcement it is going to have a pivot point and those frames aren't made to put that weight back their. I have a 39 foot gas that I pulled a trailer with, did it once, could see the affect already, braced it, loaded the trailer and had my kid and the neighbor kid stand on the tounge and bounce up and down, SCARRY. got a trailer toad and it pulled great, wouldn't tow without one.
i personally do not have one , i have a 36ft diesel pusher on a frieghtliner chassis , all i tow is a 24ft trailer with a golf cart and dragster so there is not much weight there i think around 6klbs all together i also dont tow much with the motor home since im only an hour from the track
but i have seen them in person and talked to alot of guys who have them , and if you understand how things work you will want one . i think its a no brainer if you have a big trailer and a coach . the cost of one is a drop in the bucket compaired to everything else we spend on racing , and the resale value is always good on them .
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1,187 Posts
Do you have a class A or C? Thanks!
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Kaz. I did re-enforce my class c 30 ft. Added 3/16 angle to the bottom of the frame rails from the rear spring perch to the bumper plus welded flat plate to the inside of the frame rails and added c channel crossmembers from the spring perches to the back. Added the class 5 hitch and towed a 28ft trailer with golf cart and 3000 lb car plus tools. Added air bags. Did it tow good??? YES!! Did I see structual damage occuring ? Yes. THE BIGGER PROBLEM IS, IF YOUR EVER INVOLVED IN AN ACCIDENT AND YOUR TOWING CAPACITY IS THAT FAR OVER CAPACITY YOUR'E IN BIG TROUBLE. I WOULD SAY THE TRAILER AND THE CAR UNLESS A SMALL CAR WILL BE OVER THE 3500 TOWING CAPACITY. THE OTHER THING IS NOT MUCH WEIGHT ON THE FRONT OF THE MOTOR HOME SO STEERING IN WET CONDITIONS IS LIKE DRIVING ON MARBLES. I WOULDN'T DO IT AGAIN. HOPE THIS HELPS.
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752 Posts
I use a trailer toad, best thing I ever did, 30' class A motorhome with a 28 foot enclosed, trailer loaded is going around10,000 lbs and this thing works awsome
Check out the Tuff-Tow...my father has used one on two trailers with two different motor homes. First one was a class C, new one is a Class A.
The Tuff-Tow carries all of the tongue weight, which takes the weight off the camper.
Re-enforcement is still a good idea, but not needed.
https://www.shogunindustries.com/cgi-bin/ws400CS.cgi?cart_id=1110105093603244&page=tufftowindex.html
The Tuff-Tow carries all of the tongue weight, which takes the weight off the camper.
Re-enforcement is still a good idea, but not needed.
https://www.shogunindustries.com/cgi-bin/ws400CS.cgi?cart_id=1110105093603244&page=tufftowindex.html
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2,074 Posts
trailer toad is the way to go. The only thing you need to know before buying one is. if you do alot of backing up, especially on asphalt or concrete, you could have some issues, but if you can position yourself in the pits, as to where you pull in and pull out, or atleast if you have to back up make is so its a straight shot backing up, you will be alot better off. they tow great, but difficult backing in tight spaces.
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8,016 Posts
had a 28ft class a and a 30' 11,000 pnd trailer loaded.
had a tow toad and it was so nice .
tow toad took the white knuckle out of driving. this is the worst thing. the frame issues are minor compared to how shitty it drives. and i had to anti sway bars on it and BIG load levelers.
with the toad i had no more frame issues either.
i tore the frame up 3 times before the tow toad. i boxed it added frame rails braced it like a bridge etc. i bent the frame every time, just closer and closer to axle.
buy a toad and save all the headaches ... tow toad will keep you and your family safe, and everybody else driving around you.
had a tow toad and it was so nice .
tow toad took the white knuckle out of driving. this is the worst thing. the frame issues are minor compared to how shitty it drives. and i had to anti sway bars on it and BIG load levelers.
with the toad i had no more frame issues either.
i tore the frame up 3 times before the tow toad. i boxed it added frame rails braced it like a bridge etc. i bent the frame every time, just closer and closer to axle.
buy a toad and save all the headaches ... tow toad will keep you and your family safe, and everybody else driving around you.
Thanks for the replies guys, the trailer toad is not in my futrue, I have an aluminum open trailer that weighs 1200# and the car weighs 3600#. I think the trailer toad is total over kill. I know they do what they are supposed to but I'm only talking about 5000# max.
I was thinking of adding some more bolts to the frame extensions(maybe lay a couple of welds along the lenth also) and a couple of C channel cross braces and then X it to give it some trangular strength with some 2"stock. Then I'll get a class IV hitch I should be good to go. Just wanted to know what others have done.
Thanks JKaz
I was thinking of adding some more bolts to the frame extensions(maybe lay a couple of welds along the lenth also) and a couple of C channel cross braces and then X it to give it some trangular strength with some 2"stock. Then I'll get a class IV hitch I should be good to go. Just wanted to know what others have done.
Thanks JKaz
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