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Discussion Starter #1
This is with the 6.0, from what my local buddies say, I need adjustable lowers to get the pre load set and have my UPR anti roll bar neutral. Right now it is a half turn pre loaded on the pass side because it pulls left. Evidently it is masking other issues. Still pulls left but not like the first pass that wentto the wall a bit.

The pass with the 5th gen that didn't run was a 1.37, others were 1.4x and when I really threw all I could at it, 60 fell off and went 1.5x and slowed down yet mph went up 1 mph showing that more power was in.

http://youtu.be/RGaubQiHTBw

http://youtu.be/RWZG-rgGTUw

http://youtu.be/Om13dIRsraM

Any fox guys have any suggestions? Has adjustable uppers running -2 pinion as it sits with UPR anti roll. Lakewood shocks and struts, non adjustable. 3.73s, 4500 converter, 6.0 carbed with trex.
 

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The only problem I see right away is that you need to shift quicker... it's hitting the limiter before 2nd gear.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That's the Trans, the th400 has just seen better days I guess. I pull second way early, like 5500 and it still bangs the 7200 rev limiter like that. Some passes less than others. Pretty much done for the year unless I can find the cash to make some improvements to the Trans. Window switch broke as well.
 

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ls1 s/s notch on 28s
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all rod ends on the suspension?poly?..i see your at 2 for pinion,so im guessing its all poly back their..if solid most run -1 or 0 because theirs little to no deflection...why adj lowers? lowers are just their to center the tires in the wells..uppers are for pinion changes..remember when setting the anti roll to have you in the drivers seat or some one very close to your weight,car has to be just like as if you where about to make a hit...You dont pre load the rear with lowers,then the rear will be slightly cocked some..no good an thats why u have a ar under her to make the adj with to stop it going left of right.

check your upper tq boxs holes..they sometimes oval out an will make a car go left or right..its a good thing to weld harden washers around the holes so this dont happen after time.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Want adjustable lowers to center the rear foreward. The lowers have Polly. I need to really measure everything. But thanks for the checking on the uppers. I'll see if they are slotted. This car has been used for a long time from what I understand, so it's possible it's slotted.
 

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Want adjustable lowers to center the rear foreward. The lowers have Polly. I need to really measure everything. But thanks for the checking on the uppers. I'll see if they are slotted. This car has been used for a long time from what I understand, so it's possible it's slotted.
Went racing with a guy this weekend (he had poly bushing lowers) and he car was freakin' out. The bushing in the lower arms (at the body) was egg shaped and the axle was moving... Might wanna check that.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Solid bushing adjustable lowers sounds like the plan. Thanks fellas. Just need cash now, lol.
 

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Here is a video showing the current problem:

http://youtu.be/5AmciKzTheA
Does your car have a spool? If so, drive the car is a straight line for 10 or 20 feet. Stop. Measure the gap in front of and behind the rear tires. (write that down) The cut the front wheels hard to the left or right and pull forward 5 feet. Measure the gap again. Straighten the car out and drive another 10/20 feet and stop. The cut the front wheels in the opposite direction you did on the first test. Measure the gap. (write that down) Then do the same test by driving the car in reverse. If you bushing are deflecting, the slower moving tire when turning will drag and pull the bushings out of shape and the axle will shift. The will show up in the gap in front of and behind the rear tires.

Good luck.
 

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ls1 s/s notch on 28s
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Yeah im going to say its your polys or mounts doing so..soon as the front comes off the ground the rear is steering you which is your issue because the rear is shifting under the car..take a good look at the polys an suspension mounts..make sure stuff is moving freely an not binding at all..i would plot out the whole suspension an make sure everything is square an true..next time have your buddy try and get closer an try an film the rear tires an rear..odds are though its the polys deflecting.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
That's the plan. Was worried I would bind the ARB installing it, but went in perfect. Only one adjustment tacking it in before final placement. Moves as freely as possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Alright fox guys, just noticed my rear diff is off set to the pass side. What needs to be done to fix it?
 

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ls1 s/s notch on 28s
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like the center chunk is offset like how the explorer rears are..the motor an trans are slightly offset on fox bodys to the pass side..but pretty sure they fix that with the drive shaft an the rears are centered..never put a tape to one honestly...i got a rear sitting outside and i still havent pulled my rear out my red car so i can measure some stuff when i get home to compare numbers if you need..

stock length ares lowers are 17 an like 5/8ths bolt hole center to bolt hole center and uppers are 9 an like a 3/8s if i remember right
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Got it! As this is the first project I have ever bought that started as someome else's project. I assumed the rear was set. But the thing was just bolted in. Used the upper adjustables to pull the rear back over. Cannot wait to see if it will go as straight as I want it to. Still, need to figure out how to keep the rear from squatting. I'm not used to that.
 

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Rear being not quite lined up to the front of the car gave us hell in the car in my sig. The car already likes to wheelstand. Wheelstanding from the right lane into the left lane is never a good idea.
 
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