[skipnay]

For a guy that hasn't adjusted valves much would you say solid roller or solid flat tappet? Basicly whats the down falls of the solid flat tappet compared to the solid roller. What are the pro's of the solid flat tappet over the solid roller for someone not use to adjusting valves? Can you make a reliable 9:1, 402, SBF make 600-700 hp with a solid flat tappet?

 

[hrtatack1]

You have to adjust both. Learn it if youre gonna run it.

 

[b00sted]

You adjust both. The flat tappet setup will be cheaper than a solid roller.

 

[Falconator]

There shouldn't be any difference adjusting the valves between the two. With a roller you can have more aggressive cam lobes and make more power and you don;t have to worry about wiping the cam lobes. It won't be easy to make 6-700hp na with only 9-1 compression, but is pretty easy with a little more cr and the right heads, cam, etc.

 

[skipnay]

I have adjusted valves like 3 or 4 times and it's been years and basicly someone was there showing and telling me what to do. Just not sure if I can do it myself the right way without seeing it done or someone here helping me.

 

[Blue Streak 351]

I have adjusted valves like 3 or 4 times and it's been years and basicly someone was there showing and telling me what to do. Just not sure if I can do it myself the right way without seeing it done or someone here helping me.

It is really simple. I used comp cams instructions and never had a issue. I set the lash on all of my friends cars now.

 

[Ingram78]

Solid roller Skip. Youll always wanna upgrade to one if you run a flat.

 

[Inbredjedd]

You have to adjust both. Learn it if youre gonna run it.

X2

 

[Matt Hill]

I have adjusted valves like 3 or 4 times and it's been years and basicly someone was there showing and telling me what to do. Just not sure if I can do it myself the right way without seeing it done or someone here helping me.

You'll figure it out. It's extremely easy.

 

[Shelton_Barrs]

Its not that hard to get the hang of running the valves. Personally I would go with a roller over a flat tappet.

 

[SmallBlockNova]

Solid roller and learn to do it. It's easy. Remember EOIC (exhaust open, intake close)

 

[1Slowmopar]

For reference.....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3gMYWLMAzao&feature=related

 

[bigdaddyb1]

9-1cr with a Procharger and 700hp will be no problem with 402ci; otherwise, you will have to do what we did. Good heads, big solid roller cam, good exhaust, good fuel, BIG cooling system, a lot of tuning.........

 

[Mcgyver]

I'm gonna go out on a limb here.... someone else is gonna build your motor? Have them show you how to run the valves. You can do it easily.

 

[elcokidd540]

Don't fuck around, go with a solid roller, lash every weekend, and check before and after you lash to see if your needle bearings in the rollers are going away. Also run a good synthetic oil, helps 'em last longer.

 

[1Slowmopar]

Don't fuck around, go with a solid roller, lash every weekend, and check before and after you lash to see if your needle bearings in the rollers are going away. Also run a good synthetic oil, helps 'em last longer.

How are you checking the needle bearings, visual inspection or ?

 

[dragrcr71]

A sudden increase in lash will indicate a possible lifter failure.

 

[dragrcr71]

I'm assuming this is a street car since you don't know how to adjust valves. Stick with a flat tappet or hydraulic roller.
Less maintenance and a lot less expensive. When you're ready to build a race motor - go solid roller.

 

[cowbay]

A sudden increase in lash will indicate a possible lifter failure.

X2. Saw that one my Chevy. Had to valves going out of adjustment all the time.

 

[Ironhorse427]

For what you have posted about Doing Go with a Mechanical Roller (get hold of Chris Straub he will fix you right up) and the Adjusting part is REALLY not that hard to get the hang of.....and is part of any Pre and Post race Maint. Program that you should follow religiously un less you go with a Shaft mount Rocker set up......they tend to not get out of adjustment as easily but STILL should be routinely checked for proper lash to be sure something else isn't going wrong.
I have mine set up so I can use a LONG handled 1/2" Ratchet and have a ARP Balancer Bolt that has the 1/2" square Hole in it just for this purpose and it makes the whole Process a lot easier and more precise as to being sure you get the motor turned over after each pair you adjust to exactly TDC where they should be at to check lash and Spring seat Pressures......I also check the spring seat pressures while I am running my valves and keep detailed records of each and every valve and springs.....this way if you start to see one valve that is always needing a adjustment you will know that there is a potential problem building.....like a Weak Valve spring that can break and ruin your whole day real quick..... you know what they say.....an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
there are a lot of methods for running the valves but this is my Favorite and for me the least time consuming amd most acurate;

Get your motor to #1 TDC and adjust #2 Intake and #8 Exhaust then Rotate Engine 90 degrees and adjust
#1 " " & #4 " " Rotate 90 Deg.
& adjust #8 " " & #3 " " Rotate 90 Deg.
& adjust #4 " " & #6 " " Rotate 90 Deg.
& adjust #3 " " & #5 " " Rotate 90 Deg.
& adjust #6 " " & #7 " " Rotate 90 Deg.
& adjust #5 " " & #2 " " Rotate 90 Deg.
& adjust #7 " " & #1 " " Your All Done.
This way is acurate and fast once you get the sequence down in your head...... With My Wife or either of our Kids I can do this so quickly that I can Run them between rounds if I need to.....and thats not Bragg thats fact.

RC