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Discussion Starter #1
After 30 years I sold this.



and a few months later bought this.



I quickly discovered that going from a cheap 480 whp LM7 turbo to cheap 100 whp 318 sucks.

I thought it would be an awesome bucket list idea to get a 572 hemi, but after the hemi gremlin engine fiasco spiraled into a 20K money pit, I decided to leave hemi's to folks with significantly more discretionary income...

After about 5 minutes of research it became clear that only one viable option is available that is exempt from the mopar tax... Even die hard Mopar nuts don't like these...

$250... and I probably overpaid...
 

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Well I'll tell ya, I don't see LS stuff around here for any 2xx, and I admit hemi stuff "is a bit more."


So what's the plan? How radical? Basic rebuild? OEM EFI, carb? Megasquirt?/ other?


Always liked the "up through" 69 B bodies, not so much the "eyebrow" 70 Coronet/ Bee.


Sure wish I had another 70, but god that stuff is getting hard/ expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The car has a very rare ash tray delete option and numbers matching 904 trans, so I just can’t bring myself to cut it up... it is just going to get the few lacking hp that it need in order to be fun to drive.

Regarding cheap ls stuff... watch Matt’s 8’s for 8 videos.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Got my new race motor home & stripped off the partial radiator & heater hoses, transmission lines, truck motor mounts, etc...



Unfortunately this engine is from a 114K mile Wisconsin pickup, so it has typical rust belt corrosion...

Pulling the exhaust manifolds resulted in some frustration, but eventually broken studs came out.

 

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Discussion Starter #9
I was hoping the manifolds would work reversed, but the casting pad for the EGR ended up interfering with the power steering pump. Cutting off the pad helped some.. but not enough.


Even with some grinding on the manifold, the Ram pump would have to move up about 3" to clear the manifold.



 

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Discussion Starter #10
Late 90's Grand Cherokee used the smaller Type 2 Saginaw pump, and was used with a remote reservoir, apparently the cast factory bracket isn't very strong, because a few people are making replacements... the pump moves up and much closer to the center of the engine, it will have plenty of room with the remote reservoir, and may even work with the pump mounted version.

Also got some flanges and sch 10 stainless 90's



 

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Discussion Starter #11
I will be using the flat flanges with a gasket, so I had to machine off the flare on the manifolds.





After a little work with 24 grit sanding discs it should be flat enough to seal.

 

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Definitely. My dad had a Super Bee when he was growing up so they've always been onenof the cars I've loved. Looks like you're headed down the right path. Just continue to stay away from them elephants lol.
 

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What's the engine? 5.2L?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
A pump from a 2.5L YJ will clear the backwards manifold with plenty of room. The 2.5L YJ came with a 5 groove pulley so I had to get a plastic 6 groove one from a 98 Grand Cherokee.


 

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Discussion Starter #19
The truck pan won't fit a b body, so since I had it apart I decided to install a new rear seal... Now that I messed with it I am sure that bitch will leak. The 3rd main bearing looks pretty unhappy...I wish I hadn't looked at it... oh well.



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I never tried this before... seems like it will work.


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It has been holding 100psi for a few hours without any leaks, so I guess it should work. If they start leaking later i will just braze or tig them on.
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