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Strange da with promod valving its 54% on nose now
more nose weight and or lower the car some more.... 54% doesnt cut it with mine doing 1.0x 60's.....

i also have promod valve struts up front and afco's out back ..... about 50lbs of lead stacked in the nose...
 

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Thinking about changing to a ARB on the back (currently has the stock Z28 rear sway bar) and was wondering how you guys were adjusting them or what the best practice was for getting the right adjustment?
 

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Is it better to adjust with the front raised slightly as it would be coming off the line?

Car currently weighs 3145. Comp eng 3 ways set at 50/50 in rear Midwest lower shock mounts, stock rear springs, Umi torque arm set -2 degrees on pinion angle, UMI LCA's on the lowest setting, front is 90/10's, trick sbc front springs with a coil and a half taken out. No sway bar in front

Not the highest quality stuff but car is consistent, I want to get better on the short time, but I don't want to be so drastic and upset the car and make me chase my tail. That's why I am hesitant to go to the da stuff......
Right now runs a consistent 1.44 with a pretty soft tune in the progressive, but runs a 9.48 out back.

Wanting to turn the car up this year. Was also thinking about coil overs in the front?

Trying to get it under that 3k mark with driver



Thought maybe we get some life back in this thread.
 

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I run a TRZ ARB on my '84. only run 1/2 turn of preload in right side link and it does a great job on launch. We run a no time class so I can get to specific but car 60ft's in the 1.30's and is very reliable on the launch. I set my bar with car race ready and with driver in the seat. Pretty much set it and forget it. 3100lbs with driver and losing weigh this off season.
 

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You set it static just at race weight, or with the front end raised simulating traveling down track?

I thought about the trz one but I have all tubular stuff back there already. Thought just a good Arb would be a good addition. I really like the coil overs but it looked like the ones running them were tearing up the shock mount areas.
 

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You set it static just at race weight, or with the front end raised simulating traveling down track?

I thought about the trz one but I have all tubular stuff back there already. Thought just a good Arb would be a good addition. I really like the coil overs but it looked like the ones running them were tearing up the shock mount areas.
I set it static and have had no issues. I have heard the same thing about coil overs. There is a reinforcement plate that is supposed to help but I have not seen it used. I am doing just fine with stock springs my self. Preachers kid has a build thread on here (if pictures have not disappeared) where he uses coil over springs in stock location with and adjuster. Looks pretty good.
 

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It was brought up last weekend at the shop about people running crazy LCA angles and cars working. I ran mine at -2.5 degrees down to the rearend for years. car worked ok. Guys were saying some cars are running -5 degrees. to me that seemed crazy because my LCA brackets couldn't even go that low and if they did the bracket would be on the ground. but now I just got some 13 hole brackets like the TRZ ones welded on since my rearend is out of the car. would it be beneficial to run more control arm angle now that I can? whats everyone running for LCA angles on single digit 1/4 mile F-bodies?
 

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It was brought up last weekend at the shop about people running crazy LCA angles and cars working. I ran mine at -2.5 degrees down to the rearend for years. car worked ok. Guys were saying some cars are running -5 degrees. to me that seemed crazy because my LCA brackets couldn't even go that low and if they did the bracket would be on the ground. but now I just got some 13 hole brackets like the TRZ ones welded on since my rearend is out of the car. would it be beneficial to run more control arm angle now that I can? whats everyone running for LCA angles on single digit 1/4 mile F-bodies?
If that picture in your sig is an indication of the squat you're getting then absolutely.
 

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Car is s little differnt now but my anti squat percentage is only 105% when I did the math. Car basically stays level but does not separate
 

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I took Madman's advise and it put my car from 1.38 to 1.27.... one of the biggest changes was lowering the rear lca a bit on my rear mounts. It works.....
 

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I took Madman's advise and it put my car from 1.38 to 1.27.... one of the biggest changes was lowering the rear lca a bit on my rear mounts. It works.....
do you happen to know the before and after LCA angle? I have prolly 3 more holes i can go down now. my bracket hangs past the rim lol.
 

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Fwiw I can put mine lower than the rim. Not saying I'll ever need to but I can... and I did the brackets that way so if I put a 275 on I can lower the car and still get a solid -6.5-7 degrees.


Fwiw.
 
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