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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Getting ready to venture into this area. Have a customer that has to have a flat tappet cam. I'm up to speed on the zinc issues in the oil. Used to do a lot of flat tappet stuff but haven't done one in a long time.

Anyone work with nitrided flat tappet cams? Are they necessary for a bracket engine? Are you having any problems with the distributor gear? What type of lifters are you using, forged PBM, tool steel, iron Johnson Hi Lift?

Thanks,
Gary
 

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Butch
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Getting ready to venture into this area. Have a customer that has to have a flat tappet cam. I'm up to speed on the zinc issues in the oil. Used to do a lot of flat tappet stuff but haven't done one in a long time.

Anyone work with nitrided flat tappet cams? Are they necessary for a bracket engine? Are you having any problems with the distributor gear? What type of lifters are you using, forged PBM, tool steel, iron Johnson Hi Lift?

Thanks,
Gary
I sold one of the Comp Cams Thumpr Hydrailic cams when they came out. I have not heard anything about it so i can only assume everything is fine and have talked to him many times. Never mentioned a problem with the cam

At the time it was prettty high, about what a hyd roller costs with the cost savings of flat tappet lifters, springs etc

With the Crane Cams flat tappet saturday night special and their standard flat tappets we run 160 seat and 400 open, valves have not moved .001" in close to 300 runs (~200 in camaro and 50+ in friends dragster with same engine)

I know someone who uses Ersons flat tappets in circle track by rules with no issues

One thing i believe is dont go with a radical flat tappet lobe unless you have tool steel coated lifters and a billet core

Just my opinion,,
 

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I would make sure that whomever you end up useing for a solid flat tappet camshaft to specify it to be ground on a P55 cam core. This is what Erson Cams use for all of their SFT cams and I have never had a single issue with them on any of my circle track builds & cam customer's. I even had one customer put the wrong heads on the short block, after I was finished refreshing the bottom end, and they had solid roller valve springs on the heads. When I checked the springs they had 230 lbs. on the seat and over 600 lbs going over the nose of the lobes and it didn't hurt the camshaft (this cam was previously broken in before the cylinder head mix up). Needless to say it sure surprised the heck out of me!
 

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I still think a particular cam company got caught with their pants down trying to use a cheaper source for either lifters or cam cores.
 

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Nitrided is the only way to fly for solid flat tappet cams. I've had good luck running 160 seat and 400 open with no probs.

I had to send back a few sets of PBM flat tappet lifters that had the corners all messed up. Just went with Comp ones and they did fine.
 

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Had to use flat tappet in our class, we used schubek lifters never any problems, have a new set I would like to sell they are for ford 302/351
 

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I still think a particular cam company got caught with their pants down trying to use a cheaper source for either lifters or cam cores.
I totally agree with this, Rescently did one with hyd cam, no special anything in it (oil Wise) and it is, perfectly fine.......tried to save money and BIT themselves in the arse,,,,,,,,.....................:rolleyes:
 

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What are you getting into for a build? Is this an all out piece or saturday night racer? Parts/price could change by alot
 

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i still do a lot of pro 55 solid grinds with no nitride. i use our edm oiler lifters and run 1.3 rockers on break in @ full spring pressure 160/400 on break in with the 1.3's , flip on the 1.6's and were off and happy , no spring changes. have done 40 plus engines like this with no lobe issues. remember in the early days we didnt have nitride so we had to grind the cams better and use better material to start with. proper taper on lobes and lobe footiing is the most important thing when doing hot flatty's. nitride is waste of $ on cast iron, sounds cool but not needed. redline break in lube is good option for zinc hungry people.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
i still do a lot of pro 55 solid grinds with no nitride. i use our edm oiler lifters and run 1.3 rockers on break in @ full spring pressure 160/400 on break in with the 1.3's , flip on the 1.6's and were off and happy , no spring changes. have done 40 plus engines like this with no lobe issues. remember in the early days we didnt have nitride so we had to grind the cams better and use better material to start with. proper taper on lobes and lobe footiing is the most important thing when doing hot flatty's. nitride is waste of $ on cast iron, sounds cool but not needed. redline break in lube is good option for zinc hungry people.
I agree on the materials. I can remember using just about everybody's flat tappet on any number of Ford engines small and big block. I never had one go flat. I used std rockers anywhere from 1.73 to 1.8, didn't remove any inners springs and they worked perfect.

I recall back in the day one racer I knew ran a Crower flat tappet in his 460 and it was a great cam. If I recall it was 286°/296° @ .050 with close to .700 lift with a .173 rocker. This guy never took any care with installation or break in and it lasted forever.

Thanks for your input.
 
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