[TomD1247]

I'm getting ready to start building a 1987 Mustang GT repowered with a Gen 3 Coyote hooked up to a C4 trans. The plan is to still be street legal but focus is on track performance so I'm thinking about a lot of options - current thoughts are a 4.10 rear-end and radial slicks on Weld wheels for the track, upgraded gauging, roll cage, and minimal interior - for the build over the winter, but I've read the Pro Class rules (expected class based on predicted ET's) multiple times and am unsure of a few things that I hope somebody with experience can help set me straight.

Mostly in the area of brakes and suspension is where I'm confused ... if I use a QA1 drag racing suspension kit with coilovers all around, Wilwoods at all four corners, delete the front sway bar, add manual rack and pinion, beef up the rear end with Strange axles and a heavy-duty sway bar, to get started ... am I crossing the line for ET bracket racing in the Pro Class?

I am less than an hour from Maple Grove so the plan for 2022 is to do a lot of passes there. Thanks for any help!

 

[thatmichael]

Most new guys buy all the wrong stuff, then they get out there racing and find out they need a whole different pile of stuff....n it gets expensive. I would advise calling somebody like bud's place racing ( I think ). He's a member on here Botmbulb. Can walk you through everything from parts to driving. Any racing school is expensive but getting set up close to right the first time will save you a fortune and start out next year and be somewhat competitive. It'll be be more fun if you can win a few rounds....

 

[bigblockmark]

Suggest you make friends with the local racers in your intended class and the track tech person. Use their experience to minimize you making mistakes on parts and needed less labor doing things twice. Pro class will fit what you are wanting to do. It may be harder with a Ford power train but doable.

You should have spent this past season at the track watching and learning and asking questions. Did you?

 

[crazees#2]

Always best to overkill some aspects when building a car to allow for future growth. Pro cars can be about anything and any speed, bottom of the class is 5.70 I think around here.

 

[Ligma]

Have you bracket raced before?
Jumping into Pro can be some pretty deep water with lots of talented racers. Might be a little easier to learn on Sportsman and not get beat up every weekend as you are learning the basics. Your et cam be alot slower to run Sportsman too.

 

[mrdragster1970]

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Exactly, those dragster guys will eat you alive!!!!


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[mrdragster1970]

Always best to overkill some aspects when building a car to allow for future growth.
Pro cars can be about anything and any speed, bottom of the class is 5.70 I think around here.

They have 4-6 seconds around here.
I was surprised they let cars that slow in Pro, but some of them are going rounds!!!

.

 

[Eman85]

First let's clarify something, I believe Maple Grove Pro class is non electronic no box class. If so then you are on the right track.

 

[TomD1247]

Most new guys buy all the wrong stuff, then they get out there racing and find out they need a whole different pile of stuff....n it gets expensive. I would advise calling somebody like bud's place racing ( I think ). He's a member on here Botmbulb. Can walk you through everything from parts to driving. Any racing school is expensive but getting set up close to right the first time will save you a fortune and start out next year and be somewhat competitive. It'll be be more fun if you can win a few rounds....

Thanks for the suggestions, much appreciated.

 

[TomD1247]

Suggest you make friends with the local racers in your intended class and the track tech person. Use their experience to minimize you making mistakes on parts and needed less labor doing things twice. Pro class will fit what you are wanting to do. It may be harder with a Ford power train but doable.

You should have spent this past season at the track watching and learning and asking questions. Did you?

I have spent some time at the track, maybe could have spent more, and got to know a few people but didn't want to impose, so really just tried to take it all in. The Pro class idea is based purely on what I've been told expected ET's would be in the car I'd like to build, it's likely going to run too quick - even with newbie learning curve - to run Sportsman.

 

[TomD1247]

Have you bracket raced before?
Jumping into Pro can be some pretty deep water with lots of talented racers. Might be a little easier to learn on Sportsman and not get beat up every weekend as you are learning the basics. Your et cam be alot slower to run Sportsman too.

I have not bracket raced before but - assuming I'm reading the NHRA rules correctly, and I think I am - the expected ET's of the car I'm thinking about would be too quick for Sportsman. Maybe holding off on the engine swap and just beefing up the stock engine, suspension, brakes, etc. would run ET's above 12 so I could spend first season in Sportsman.

 

[TomD1247]

They have 4-6 seconds around here.
I was surprised they let cars that slow in Pro, but some of them are going rounds!!!

.

Are we talking about the same Pro class? The NHRA bracket racing Pro class says ET's from 9.00 to 13.99, Sportsman is 12.00 and slower. Based on what I've been told by a few other racers, the car I plan to build will likely run in the 11's even with my newbie learning curve as a driver, so that's why I assumed the Pro class for bracket racing was where I'd land.

 

[novafornow]

Different tracks call their classes different things. Out west, most are Super Pro (electronics), Pro (no electronics), & Sportsman. Still agree that you should run the car slow in sportsman for a year, even if you have to put a two barrel on it. The seat time is very valuable.

 

[str8liner]

Are we talking about the same Pro class? The NHRA bracket racing Pro class says ET's from 9.00 to 13.99, Sportsman is 12.00 and slower. Based on what I've been told by a few other racers, the car I plan to build will likely run in the 11's even with my newbie learning curve as a driver, so that's why I assumed the Pro class for bracket racing was where I'd land.

Ya, pro is 9.00-13.99......If you cut your teeth in Pro at Maple Grove it will definitely be trial by fire.......

But hey I went through it when I started. The guy that showed me the ropes wouldn't let me run trophy, and there was no sportsman. He said "you cant eat or spend a trophy, so don't waste your time running it.....lol

 

[TomD1247]

Different tracks call their classes different things. Out west, most are Super Pro (electronics), Pro (no electronics), & Sportsman. Still agree that you should run the car slow in sportsman for a year, even if you have to put a two barrel on it. The seat time is very valuable.

I am rethinking my plan and may hold off on the swap ... just make sure the stock 5.0 is running well, the trans and rear end are solid, suspension and brakes are up to snuff, and go run Sportsman for a year. Less pressure, more learning, and certainly less money.

 

[mrdragster1970]

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I'm a different page, sorry. I thought you were trying to run in the Pro with a delay box & dragsters.
I run in Mod, no box & no dragsters allowed.
I run 9.17, so I'm on the quick end and I only left first once all year.

Just so you know, Pro is pretty damn tough now a days.
Race one she had a .0008 tree, and race two he had a .0004

That's with no delay box, talk about trial under fire!!!
First 2 races got my ass handed to me

Good luck & race safe. Wellcome to the madhouse!!

.

 

[TomD1247]

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I'm a different page, sorry. I thought you were trying to run in the Pro with a delay box & dragsters.
I run in Mod, no box & no dragsters allowed.
I run 9.17, so I'm on the quick end and I only left first once all year.

Just so you know, Pro is pretty damn tough now a days.
Race one she had a .0008 tree, and race two he had a .0004

That's with no delay box, talk about trial under fire!!!
First 2 races got my ass handed to me

Good luck & race safe. Wellcome to the madhouse!!

.

Based on what you all are telling me - and I really appreciate the input - I am really leaning now against the swap, just make the car as solid as she can be, and run Sportsman for at least a year to get some experience. I sometimes get ahead of myself, and while I have plenty of street racing runs from 45 years ago, bracket racing on a strip is going to be a whole new thing. This seems to be a case of where less to start is better.

 

[GTAShief]

I am rethinking my plan and may hold off on the swap ... just make sure the stock 5.0 is running well, the trans and rear end are solid, suspension and brakes are up to snuff, and go run Sportsman for a year. Less pressure, more learning, and certainly less money.

Do this.

 

[EricJB]

Here in the PNW, (div 6) Sportsman can be just as tough as Pro. I would recommend using your first year as a training season. Don't put a ton of pressure on yourself. Just have fun. Be prepared to get hammered on regardless of class. Learn the game by watching the competition. Shake your opponent's hand when you lose. Some of these people will become lifelong friends.
You more than likely miss a couple of things on the car and they will find them at tech. Be respectful and agree to fix them before the next race. If it isn't a big safety issue, they will usually let you run.
Keep hard candy in the car for when you are sitting in the lanes. It will remind you that it's all just for fun and help calm your nerves.

 

[87mike]

Get the car to run about a 13 flat and run both Pro and Sportsman classes.
Double your fun.